No stone has been left unturned with the Rab Exion ND55L rucksack. It doesn’t just sit on your hips, it cuddles them. I also believe that when it comes to hiking backpacks, there’s no such thing as too many pockets, and this bag is proof.

For long thru-hikes, I’ve spent years happily married to the Osprey brand, so I wasn’t expecting to be swayed by a different backpack. But the Rab Exion ND55L has truly converted me. On the trail, it felt like I was barely wearing a pack at all.

For large backpacking rucksacks, I long since ditched unisex packs in favour of female-specific options. At just 157cm (5ft 2in) tall there’s no chance I’ll be comfortable wearing the same pack as a beanpole of a man, something I learnt after my first thru hike, aged 15, when I returned feeling like my spine had been bent into a boomerang.

The Rab Exion 55 goes one step further by offering a narrow fit (called the ND55L), which comes in a single frame size listed as XS/S on the pack (alternative sizes are available in with the standard Exion 55). The fit was glove-like for my vertically challenged body and teenage boy’s hips.

Plus, I’d say 55L is the sweet spot. It panders to your self-delusions of being a minimalist fastpacker that chops their toothbrush in half and takes the cardboard out of the centre of toilet rolls, and then gives you oodles of extra capacity by including 13 different pockets (unlucky for none).

Yes, that means you can add the weight back on again with ‘hiking essentials’ like a portable coffee press. And yes, I’m speaking from experience. At 1.95kg though, I can assure you that with this pack you’re not a minimalist fastpacker.

So that’s the background, now let’s dig into the details.

Back panel, frame and harness

A standout feature of this pack is the detachable back panel — you can remove it entirely from the bag’s frame, which makes adjustment a breeze and also allows for easier cleaning.

I used the narrow-fit version and, as a smaller-framed woman, I found the fit excellent. The lowest height adjustment was perfect for me and it seemed as though there was good range for taller women, too.

The frame is reinforced with aluminium poles running down the sides, which reminded me a little of a baby carrier pack and meant that although the pack itself isn’t so light, when you load it up it balances the weight really well. It gives it a rigid, supportive feel that encourages proper packing.

Volume, shape and weight

This pack is so slim that face on, you can barely see it either side of your body.

The 55L capacity is an absolute winner for me, as it provides enough space that I can fit everything I need for a week or two’s adventure (with a two-person tent strapped to the outside). Thankfully, it’s not so large I feel the need to stuff it with things that aren’t necessary, though.

For taller people, or hikers that need a lot of home comforts, it might not be sufficient for a long trip.

It weighs in at 1.95kg, which is a long way from ultralight, but this pack has certainly been designed to be robust rather than feather-light.

Both the standard-fit version of the Exion also comes in 65L, 48L and 38L versions, while the women’s iterations are available with 65L, 45L and 35L capacities. Prices for those range from £240 in the 65L guise down to £180 for the 35L options and £200 for 45L.

Not every one of those options comes in multiple back sizes, though, so you’ll want to check that out before buying.

Features: Lid, straps, pockets and weather protection

Now, indulge me as I wax lyrical about all the pockets... The shoulder straps include two small mesh pockets, which are a rare and welcome addition. These significantly increase quick-access storage, supplementing the generous hip belt pockets. Check, check, check and check for your penknife, phone, sunscreen and plenty of hiking snacks at easy access without needing to stop and take off your pack.

Up top, the Exion 55 features two lid pockets, allowing you to really maximise the space in the top of the pack. Inside the lid, you’ll also find a helpful reference panel with emergency numbers for the UK, Europe, USA, Australia and New Zealand, as well as mountain distress signal info – a nice touch for global adventurers.

The main compartment includes a standard internal sleeve against your back and a large front-access zip that allows the bag to open like a duffle. This feature is polarising. While some love the easy access, I sometimes find it makes my bag even more chaotic as I don’t have to pack so systematically, but it’s great to have the choice.

There’s also a bottom zip compartment, which is perfect for a sleeping bag, and multiple external mesh pockets, including two large ones on the sides, one on the front and a buckle-secured outer mesh flap.

Then, just in case there weren’t enough pockets (there are), bungee loops give you the space to attach your walking poles to the outside of the pack or hang even more bits and bobs from.

The rain cover is a standard inclusion, but Rab has opted for a Velcro attachment at the base rather than toggles. I actually prefer this as it’s quicker to deploy in sudden rain, though I do wonder if it’s as secure in high winds. So far, it hasn’t failed me.

I also admire Rab’s transparency when it comes to sustainability. The brand’s website breaks down every material used for the pack and exactly how much of it was recycled.

Some parts (e.g. the liner), come up trumps with 86% made from recycled materials. Others, such as the frame, aren’t made from recycled materials at all. It’s not perfect, but no-one could accuse the brand of greenwashing.

Final verdict

Sorry Osprey, I’m cheating, the Rab Exion ND55L has well and truly seduced me. If only I could find clothes with this many pockets. It’s strong, comfortable and capacious – what more do you need in a hiking pack?

About the author

Anna Richards is a travel and outdoor writer based in Lyon, France. She contributes to BBC, The Independent, Lonely Planet and others, and is the author of Paddling France. When she's not on an aquatic adventure, she's hiking in the Alps and testing some gear while she's at it.

Every good day outdoors should end with a well-earned, restful sleep – not shivering until 3am in a woefully thin sleeping bag. And in our experience, a high-quality 3-season sleeping bag will guarantee a good night’s sleep for most of the year.

It's the most popular type of sleeping bag in terms of seasonality because it's designed for use between early spring and late autumn.

Compared to winter sleeping bags, which are mega warm and bulky, they're pretty versatile. In truth, the 3-season category for sleeping bags covers a broad range of weights and temperatures.

Some campers will opt for a warmer 3-season bag and use it year-round, but it may be too warm in spring and summer. Other campers will choose a lighter option for spring and summer, but they may feel too cold in the shoulder seasons.

Choosing the right three season bag can be tricky. The comfort and lower limits (more on those here) are the best indicators, but they should be used as a guide only; if you tend to feel the cold badly, give yourself a buffer with the temperature ratings. Most bags we've reviewed are available in different lengths and widths, as well as women’s specific models.

From down-filled cocoons to synthetic duvets, below are our in-depth reviews of the best sleeping bags for use from early spring to late autumn.

How we tested the best 3-season sleeping bags

Most of the sleeping bags recommended here were tested by James Forrest, Matt Jones and Ellie Clewlow. James is a freelance outdoor writer and gear tester who's climbed all 1,001 mountains in the UK and Ireland, and is one of the most well-known outdoor writers in the UK.

Matt and Ellie are outdoor writers and photographers with a passion for adventure, from walking long-distance trails to climbing mountains. They live and work in the heart of Eryri (Snowdonia).

James, Matt and Ellie tested these sleeping bags in a mix of weather conditions. They carefully assessed the technical performance of each sleeping bag and graded them in terms of comfort, warmth, weight and pack size, features and value for money.

Curious as to how we review products? Read all about how we test here.

Editor's note: This article was checked and updated on 13 October 2025 to make sure all products were still available and deserving a place in this list.

The best 3-season sleeping bags reviewed:

How do I buy a 3-season sleeping bag?

What temperatures are 3-season sleeping bags for?

A 3-season sleeping bag is intended for use in the cold (but not freezing) temperatures, which makes them suitable for most months of the year, from spring through to autumn, hence '3-season'. In terms of bag comfort temperatures this means from around the low positives (Celsius) to the low negatives to cater for peoples' varying susceptibility to cold.

What do temperature ratings mean?

Sleeping bags are commonly graded by the EN/ISO standard, stating temperature ratings as ‘comfort’ (warm enough for the average female), ‘comfort limit’ (warm enough for the average male), and ‘extreme’ (you won’t die, but it’ll be very uncomfortable). To confuse matters, some brands also publish their own in-house temperature ratings.

The comfort and lower limits are the best indicators of a bag’s realistic temperature range, but they should only be used as a guide.

Is down or synthetic insulation best?

Down – the lofty, fluffy stuff underneath the feathers – is the lightest and most efficient form of insulation and also the most compressible (so is great for stuffing into your backpack). The drawbacks are that down is expensive and loses its insulating qualities when wet.

Although all the down-filled gear we test and recommend on LFTO use RDS down, there may be wider animal welfare considerations that are of importance to you.

Synthetic insulation is typically bulkier and heavier than down, but it's also less expensive and doesn’t absorb water, which makes them a good choice for wetter conditions.

What is fill power and fill weight?

Fill power is a rating system for down that measures compressibility and loft (fluffiness) – and gives an indication of its insulating properties. A higher fill power indicates better quality down and a greater warmth-to-weight ratio.

Fill weight is the amount of down in a bag, measured in grams. The higher the fill weight, the warmer a bag will be. This means that it’s important to check both the fill weight and fill power. A sleeping bag with only 650 fill power down can still be as warm as a bag with 900 fill power down, for example, if it has a higher fill weight (ie more down) inside the bag.

What about pack size and weight?

Naturally, a lightweight sleeping bag with a small pack size is easier to stash and carry around in your rucksack. Down-filled sleeping bags have the best compressibility and warmth-to-weight ratios, but some technical synthetic sleeping bags aren't far off. Look for a bag with a compression stuffsack to really cinch down the pack size.

What sleeping bag shape is best?

Most bags are available in different lengths or widths, as well as women-specific fits. ‘Performance mummy’ bags are slim fitting and highly tapered to save weight and boost thermal efficiency.

Some may find them restrictive though, in which case, look for a less tapered shape that offers more room to move. Just be aware the more roomy a sleeping bag is, the heavier, bulkier, and less thermally efficient it will be.

Are there different ways a sleeping bag is constructed?

Most down bags use a box-wall construction, which traps the fill inside brick-shaped baffles. Larger baffles give more space for insulation to loft, but smaller baffles can stop the fill from migrating and getting bunched in one place, leading to uneven insulation.

Angled baffles and zoned construction can reduce cold spots. Synthetic bags often use a baffle-free construction that features a single or double sheet of insulation.

In terms of materials, shell and lining fabrics are usually made from nylon or polyester. Durable water-resistant (DWR) coatings are often applied to protect the fill. Areas particularly prone to damp, like the base, foot and hood may have additional protection.

What important features should I look for?

Hood: An insulated and closefitting hood makes a big difference in cold conditions. Look for a bag with hood drawcords so you can adjust the fit, but ensure they are comfortably placed and easy to use.

Shoulder baffle: A neck or shoulder baffle helps to lock heat in by preventing warm air from escaping around the face.

Storage sack: In addition to a stuffsack, many bags now come with a larger cotton or mesh storage sack that allows the bag to loft and breathe when not in use. This prevents musty odours and damage to the fill caused by long-term compression.

Zip: A full-length zip allows you to vent heat and makes getting in and out easier, though a shorter zip saves weight. Zips usually have a baffle to prevent cold spots, but make sure it doesn’t snag. Note that if you are right-handed, a zip on the left side is generally easier to use and vice versa. If you’re a side sleeper, make sure the zip won’t end up underneath your body, as this can be uncomfortable.

How do I make sure my sleeping bag is sustainable?

Start with the materials. Look for sleeping bags that use RDS down (most do) or recycled insulation if buying a synthetic sleeping bag (a select few brands are even starting to use recycled down). Then try and find a sleeping bag that uses recycled material for the main shell and lining materials.

Many sleeping bags, especially those intended for hiking and backpacking, treat the outer materials and often the down insulation with a water-repellent treatment. These treatments used to use harmful PFCs, and many still do, but many brands are increasingly using PFC-free treatments, which are much more environmentally friendly.

You can go further and look into a brand's overall sustainability credentials. Those with easily accessible sustainability information and third-party certifications such as B Corp, Bluesign, Fair Wear, or Fair Trade ensure the brand is operating in a more socially and environmentally responsible manner.

You can keep the fabric of your sleeping bag in good condition to ensure it lasts as long as possible and get it repaired when required. Then, at the end of its life, down sleeping bags can be recycled through some brands such as Alpkit and Rab.

How do I clean a sleeping bag and repair it?

Cleaning sleeping bags and storing them correctly when not in use are both very straightforward but need to be done correctly in order to enjoy many years of use.

To ensure the sleeping bag maintains its loft, store your sleeping bag in a larger storage bag at home rather than the compression sack. This is especially important for down. Many sleeping bags come with storage and compression bags, but if yours doesn't come with the latter, you can use an old pillowcase or something similar.

In terms of cleaning, use either Grangers Down Wash or Nikwax Down Wash.Direct (below). Both of these products are eco-friendly and specifically designed for cleaning insulated outdoor gear. They clean the fabrics and insulation and restore breathability. Regular laundry detergents don't do this and leave behind residue that inhibits water repellency, breathability, and insulation loft.

If your sleeping bag gets a rip or a broken zip, for example, these can easily be repaired. Repair specialists such as Lancashire Sports Repairs repair all types of outdoor gear. Similarly, many outdoor retailers, such as Cotswold Outdoor have repair services, as do brands including Rab and Alpkit.

About the authors

James Forrest is a prolific peak bagger and long-distance walker who’s one of the most high-profile outdoor writers in the UK. He writes regular features and route guides for Trail and has been one of our main gear testers for the last few years.

James is based on the edge of the Lake District so when he isn’t off on his latest crazy adventure or challenge, he’s walking in his local fells. He reviews every type of outdoor kit and is a real authority on everything you need for wild camping and packing light for a multi-day walk.

Matt Jones is the former editor of Walk and Scouting magazines, and has been reviewing gear professionally for years. He lives and works among the mountains of North Wales, which is an ideal testing ground for the kit he reviews.

The Hilleberg Nallo 2 is a top-tier tunnel tent designed for four-season backpacking and wild camping in challenging environments. As part of Hilleberg’s Red Label series, it’s engineered to withstand harsh conditions whilst still keeping a watchful eye on overall weight.

This is a two person tent that can handle winter storms in the Highlands but remains a viable proposition for multi-day backpacking trips. The double-skinned construction features an exceptionally strong 30D Kerlon 1200 flysheet with triple silicone coating, a 70D PU-coated nylon floor boasting 15,000mm HH, and chunky DAC Featherlite poles. Together, these deliver outstanding waterproofing, strength, and wind resistance.

Pitching is simple and flexible: the tent goes up all-in-one or outer-first, ideal in poor weather, and the flysheet can be used as a single skin shelter. Despite its tunnel shape, the tent is spacious inside, with sufficient headroom, a generous 220cm length and over 30 sq ft of floor space.

The vestibule is large enough for two backpacks and muddy walking boots, though with only one door, access is slightly limited.

Ventilation is smartly designed with multiple zip options, mesh panels, and low/high vents that make condensation manageable. While re-tensioning may occasionally be needed in wet weather due to unavoidable fabric sag (a typical trait of virtually all sil-nylon tents), the sturdy five-guyline system ensures solid pitching even in exposed sites.

At 2.4kg packed, it’s not ultralight, but given its strength, durability, and reliability, it’s acceptable. Build quality is exceptional throughout, and the tent is manufactured in Europe to high ethical and material standards.

There’s no getting around the fact that the Nallo 2 is expensive, but for serious campers needing a dependable shelter for tough conditions, it might be worth the investment.

Shape, structure, pitching and internal liveability

It pitches easily, either all in one or outer first. This configuration is great for year-round use, since it makes it easy to keep the inner dry even if you’re forced to set up in falling rain or snow.

Similarly, if you also need to pack up in poor weather, you can take down the inner canopy and pack the outer rainfly last, keeping everything else dry. The flysheet can even be pitched on its own (or with a footprint) as a single-skin shelter, which adds more versatility.

After pegging the two rear corners out, the two 9mm DAC Featherlite NSL poles simply thread through external sleeves and are colour coded for ease of pitching (one pole is clearly, if somewhat crudely, marked with red tape).

They slot into reinforced, sewn-in pole sleeves at one side and sturdy plastic feet at the other, and are then tensioned with metal buckles. Then simply pull the front of the tent taut and stake it out with two more pegs. Secure the remaining points, tension the pre-attached guys and it all takes shape. It’s quick and intuitive.

Once set up, the tent is nice and roomy, with a large vestibule that provides sufficient space for two sets of gear, whilst still giving you just about enough room to crawl in and out. In terms of dimensions, the inner sleeping space measures 220 x 130cm, tapering to 109cm at the foot.

There’s 2.8 metres squared of overall floor area, which is more generous than most comparable rivals. That’s sufficient length for a six-footer to lie out straight and ample width to accommodate two sleeping mats easily. Headroom is competitive, with a metre of height at the apex, giving room to sit up in the centre of the tent.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is just about best in class, with an impressive 15,000mm Hydrostatic Head rating for the 70D sewn-in bathtub floor, which is made from triple-PU coated nylon. This has an extended height of about 10cm all round, ensuring you stay dry even in heavy rain or if snowfall accumulates overnight.

The outer tent is a 10,000mm triple silicon coated flysheet made from Hilleberg’s own Kerlon 1200 ripstop nylon 66 fabric. There’s no way that this tent is going to leak. Meanwhile, the inner canopy is mostly fabric, consisting of 30-denier nylon treated with a durable water repellent finish, with mosquito mesh panels.

A key feature is that the outer flysheet fabric extends all the way to the ground, providing optimal protection against adverse weather conditions. The only downside worth noting is that, like many sil-nylon tents, the flysheet fabric is sensitive to temperature and weather changes.

After overnight rain or a sudden drop in temperature and pressure, the fabric does tend to sag a little, making the tent appear slack. It’s particularly noticeable in tunnel tent designs due to the larger areas of unsupported sidewall fabric between the poles.

With the Nallo, the relatively thick 30D Kerlon fabric mitigates this issue somewhat, especially compared to lighter 10, 15 or 20-denier tents. Still, re-tensioning is occasionally necessary.

An optional footprint can be added that covers the entire area of the outer tent, including the vestibule. It connects directly to the tent and can be left attached during pitching, though it’ll cost you an extra £110 and 420g in weight. Still, for maximum protection against wear and tear, it might be worth the investment.

Condensation

If tunnel tents have a downside, it’s that they’re notorious for poor ventilation, which can lead to problems with condensation in damp or humid weather.

To counteract this, the Nallo 2 is fitted with a four-way zipper on the flysheet entrance, which enables you to porch out the door and create a canopy with trekking poles, or crack the upper zip for extra ventilation. Double zip locks at the lower edge prevent zip creep in windy weather.

The doorway has a very large scooped upper vent, which also acts as a cowl to deflect wind and rain. The peak of this cowl is wire stiffened and does a good job of funnelling air into the tent to manage moisture and improve air flow, ensuring the tent doesn’t feel stuffy.

Meanwhile, the entrance to the inner tent has a full circumference, two-way zippered door that features full mesh and a secondary zippered fabric panel for improved ventilation or additional warmth, depending on the conditions.

There’s also a large triangular mesh vent at the rear of the inner, again with a secondary fabric panel that can be closed up or opened, rolled away and secured with a toggle to improve overall ventilation. This works with a zippered lower vent at the foot end of the fly sheet, which can also be rolled up and tied off to bring in extra airflow at ground level.

It all works pretty well, although a certain amount of condensation is almost unavoidable in a tunnel tent. Still, it’s perfectly manageable and rarely causes any real issues.

Wind protection

The Nallo was originally designed by brand founder Bo Hilleberg back in 1987, as a two-pole tunnel tent for one person. Over the years, the basic design has evolved and there are now variants in several sizes suitable for up to 4 people, including a ‘GT’ three-pole version with an extended vestibule.

All share the same essential attributes of the tunnel tent design though, which is a tried and tested structure for demanding conditions that offers superior space-to-weight compared to dome tents or single-hoop designs.

The caveat to this is that, since they’re non-freestanding, they need to be securely pegged out and orientated correctly (ideally, facing end-on into prevailing winds). Fortunately, the latest version of the Nallo 2 has a tapered profile, with a smaller radius hoop at the foot end, which helps it to shed wind more effectively.

It’s a sturdy and capable tent fitted with five chunky guy lines, four with double attachment points and all with locking runners. These guy lines are very long, ensuring they anchor the tent securely in all conditions.

The Nallo is supplied with a high-quality set of anodised aluminium V-stakes and Hilleberg’s proprietary guy line cord. It’s an interwoven blend of Vectran fibre and polyester, which has no outer sheath that can slip from the core. What’s more, it has almost no stretch and absorbs virtually no water.

Though the supplied line runners look simple, they hold effectively even on wet or frozen cord without slipping and yet can be easily adjusted with one hand, even if you’re wearing gloves or mittens.

This ensures the tent feels rock solid, even on exposed hillsides and summits. We had it out on test in mid-February in Scotland, above Loch Lomond, when we were forced to pitch up in wet and windy conditions. It held firm, providing a very welcome refuge.

Weight and packed size

The Nallo 2 tent tips the scales at 2.4kg packed. That’s the all-in weight, with everything included. The minimum trail weight is 2.0kg, but in winter you’d definitely want to be carrying the full complement of guylines and stakes to ensure maximum stability.

When packed in its stuff sack, the Nallo 2 measures about 48cm x 17cm. This is pretty good for such a capable four-season rated tent and means it’ll fit easily into most backpacking rucksacks – though it might be fractionally long for a bikepacking setup.

Obviously, there are lighter and more compact shelters on the market, but few are as sturdy or as well-made as the Nallo.

Features and sustainability

The Nallo 2 is a tried and tested design, but its features tend towards the straightforward and practical rather than the especially unusual or innovative. As such, internal storage is maybe not the Nallo’s strong point. There are only two small mesh pockets at the lower head end of the tent, although you do get an adjustable overhead gear line for hanging wet kit or a tent lantern.

Still, we can’t fault the materials, components or overall build quality. Everything about this tent oozes class. The poles are high quality 9mm DAC Featherlite NSL aluminium alloy, and the supplied pegs are DAC V-stakes, fitted with cord loops for easy ground extraction, which balance low weight with good holding power.

You’ve got reinforced corners at all the key pegging points, double stitched seams, reflective elements, metal buckles, chunky guylines, super-strong webbing: all top-quality materials throughout. It really is the Rolls Royce of tents.

The Nallo 2 is designed in Sweden and manufactured in Europe – specifically, made in Estonia (with materials sourced from Korea), as the label reveals. You can actually track the individual maker too, which is not just a good point in terms of traceability, but also shows Hilleberg’s dedication to craftsmanship.

Price and competition

The Nallo 2 is an absolutely bomber four-season tent. It’s easy to see why it’s got so many fans and remains such a perennially popular choice. The obvious downside is the high price point. This tent has a UK RRP of over £1000, which is serious money to drop on any shelter, no matter how good it is.

It’s certainly overkill for more casual use. So, it’s only worth splashing the cash if you’re sure that you’re going to get out year-round and spend plenty of time in the hills and mountains.

Still, the Nallo 2 has to be considered reasonable value, even at this price, since you’re getting an extremely well-engineered product that should last years if properly cared for. Anecdotally, we know keen campers who’ve had Hilleberg tents for close to a decade and they’re still going strong.

However, there are several other options to consider if you’re after an extended two-person touring-style tunnel tent for year-round backpacking, mainly from Scandinavian manufacturers. For example, there’s the Nordisk Seiland 2 SP (£870, 3.35kg), plus a range of choices from Fjällräven depending on your requirements.

This includes the Abisko Lite 2 (£700, 2.07kg), the Abisko Shape 2 (£800, 2.32kg), the Abisko Endurance 2 (£900, 2.55kg) and the Keb Endurance 2 (£1000, 3.69kg). There’s also the excellent Lightwave Trail T20 XT Tent (£600, 2.92kg), which is a UK/Kiwi brand rather than Scandinavian, but cheaper than any of these and similarly robust.

If you don’t need dedicated winter-ready performance, then a whole host of options come into the mix, from brands such as Robens, Terra Nova, Vango F10, Bach, Helsport, Stoic, Wechsel and more.

Our current favourite three-season, two-person tunnel tents are probably the F10 Xenon UL2 (£340, 1.9kg), the MSR Tindheim 2 (£440, 3.2kg) and the Nordisk Oppland 2 LW (£990, 1.74kg). These all offer similar or superior dimensions to the Nallo 2 overall, but don’t have the same heavy-duty build.

Alternatively, if you’re on a budget but need a tent that can handle the rough stuff, look at the Vango Apex Geo 200, the Vango Helvellyn 200 or the NEMO Kunai. You’ll need to sacrifice a bit of porch space and all-round liveability, but any of these will save you several hundred quid and still give you a dependable year-round shelter.

Verdict

The Hilleberg Nallo 2 is a rugged, expertly built tunnel tent designed to thrive in demanding conditions year-round. It’s expensive, but if you’re heading into rough weather and want reliability above all else, few tents match its pedigree.

About the author

Matt Jones is a freelance journalist based in the heart of Snowdonia National Park, he’s a vastly experienced gear tester and self-confessed outdoor kit geek.

Matt’s been one of our main gear testers for the last couple of years and is the first person we call with any complicated kit queries that need in-depth and forensic analysis.

The Rab Latok 38 is a streamlined mountaineering backpack built for fast, light, alpine winter missions. With its minimalist X-Shield back system and 860g weight, it's designed to hug your body closely, prioritising agility and simplicity over structure and support.

There’s no fancy ventilation, high-tech back system or adjustable frame here - just a lightly padded foam back panel, sculpted shoulder straps and a basic removable hipbelt. That won’t please heavy-load hauliers, but for those who favour minimalism, it hits the mark.

The 38-litre capacity hits a sweet spot for winter day trips, though some hillwalkers may prefer a classic hiking backpack with a bit of extra volume.

The tall, narrow shape keeps it out of the way on rugged terrain, and the rolltop closure boosts weather resistance alongside the premium Cordura fabric reinforced with Spectra Ripstop.

Features are pared-back but purposeful: ice axe holders, ski carry straps and multiple gear attachment points all add up to a genuinely mountain-ready pack - just don’t expect creature comforts or endless organisation.

In short, this is a sleek, tough and impressively light alpine pack that suits a stripped-back style. But if you want more structure, adjustability or volume, this might not be the one. It’s brilliant, however, if you like things simple.

Back system: Panel, frame and harness

This pack features Rab’s X-Shield back system, which is “designed to sit close to your back to give you complete freedom to move”.

You also get dual-density foam shoulder straps for “even better mobility”, according to Rab, with thicker padding at the top for comfort, and thinner lower down, so that the straps contour the body and move with you. The hipbelt is pretty simple and minimalist, without any padded fins – it’s really just a strap with a metallic buckle closure.

Overall, I’d describe this back system as simple and basic, with a clear focus on lightness and minimalism, rather than support, stability and load carrying capacity. The back panel is very straightforward and no-nonsense.

There’s no metallic frame, no ventilated mesh and nothing technical or high-tech at all. Instead, it’s just a lightly padded foam sheet, with lots of flex. This has quite a straight feel to it, and it holds the pack very close to the body.

There’s also no ventilation whatsoever (but you probably don’t need much in the cold of winter), and there’s little to no rigidity too. This whole approach might polarise opinion.

Personally, I really like it – I find the close-to-the-body fit feels very stable and secure, and delivers good levels of comfort. It’s possible to overheat a little, and, personally, I’d suggest this pack’s performance and comfort will reduce with heavier loads – it’s clearly better for slightly lighter loads.

Nonetheless I had the pack fully loaded to the full capacity and I found the carrying experience very enjoyable and comfortable.

During my test hikes – a round of Bannerdale Crag’s craggy eastern ridge from Mungrisdale and a loop of Gavel Fell and Hen Comb in the Loweswater fells – I found the shoulder straps absolutely fine. They fitted me well and were comfy enough.

A sternum strap (with whistle) and top tensioner straps enabled me to fine-tune the fit to my body shape, in the usual way, which worked fine.

I was less enamoured with the basic hipbelt, which I felt was a little too simplistic and not great at transferring the load to the hips. But ultimately, that’s not really the style of an alpine pack, so I was willing to forgive Rab for that one. If you really don’t like the hipbelt, it is removable.

Back length and sizing

The Rab Latok only comes in one size, and the back system is non-adjustable, so ultimately it will either fit you or it won’t. The official back length of the pack, as quoted by Rab, is 19” (48cm).

I’m 178cm tall and I found this size worked fine for me, but if you’re particularly shorter or taller than me, the back length might not suit your body shape. As is often the case with outdoor kit, the best option is to try for size in an outdoor shop before you buy, if possible.

Alternatively, you can follow Rab’s useful article on ‘how to fit a backpack’, which describes in detail how to measure your torso length from your C7 vertebra directly down to your iliac crest.

Volume, shape and weight

As the name suggests, the Rab Latok 38 has a 38-litre volume. For me, this hits a nice sweet spot for wintry adventures – enough space for all of the extra kit and layers I need to carry, but not too voluminous that I start over-packing and the bag gets too heavy.

My personal style in the hills is quite light and minimalist, so some would argue that 38L is a little on the small side for winter. If that’s you, then you might need to look at other brands for a 40L or 50L pack, such as the Osprey Mutant 52L or Patagonia Ascensionist 55L.

Others, however, might agree with my approach and like the sub-40L capacity. Ultimately, this all comes down to personal preference and how much gear you tend to carry in the mountains.

Rab makes two other packs in the Latok range. The Latok 20L costs £120 and weighs just 480g, but is obviously very small for a winter pack. The Latok 28L is £150 and clocks in at 810g.

In terms of weight, the Latok 38L is very impressive. It has an official weight of 860g, which is very light compared to many other comparable winter packs. The Highlander Vulkan 45 weighs 1,600g, for example, and the Osprey Mutant 52L is 1,462g.

Clearly, therefore, the Rab Latok 38L offers a big weight saving and, thus, feels lighter, comfier and more streamlined in use. Certainly I felt more agile, nimble and energetic with this minimalist pack than bulkier winter gear-haulers.

When it comes to shape, the Latok 38L has a classic alpine shape. It’s relatively tall and thin, with a close-to-the-body fit. It doesn’t extend too far outwards in terms of width, and the overall sensation is one of minimalism – this pack doesn’t interfere or get in the way ever.

The actual shape is a bit like an inverted trapezoid, with a narrower base and more width towards the top of the pack. All in all, the shape and style of the Latok 38L works really well, in my opinion.

Features: Lid, straps, pockets and weather protection

The materials used in this pack feel very premium and high-tech. The bulk of the pack is made from tough Cordura nylon, which has been reinforced with a fabric innovation called “Spectra Ripstop”.

This makes the Latok 38L “highly abrasion, tear and UV resistant”, according to Rab, with sturdy protection against sharp tools, rocks, ski edges and anything else you might encounter in the snowy mountains.

You also get Rab’s PFC-free HydroShield water-resistant finish to ensure the pack can cope well with snow flurries, sleet or rain. This pack does not have a lid and instead features rolltop closure, which Rab says makes the exterior top of the pack “highly weatherproof and strong”.

It fights weather well, and may even earn a place on our roundup of the best waterproof backpacks. All in all, this pack feels tough enough to cope with the rough and tumble of winter in the hills, in my opinion.

In terms of features, this pack is on the minimalist side of the spectrum. Therefore, it’s not as fully featured as some other packs, and a few features are missing. You don’t get a lid or padded hipbelt fins, for example – those are the most noticeable omissions.

But, despite the pared-back and ultralight build, you still get a good amount of winter-ready features with the Latok 38L. Indeed Rab claims the pack delivers “a wealth of utility and strength for minimum weight”.

In terms of pockets, you get one zippered external pocket at the top of the back panel and one zippered internal pocket (with key clip) at the top of the pack’s interior. The main space inside the pack is just one large, gaping, voluminous compartment with no features.

Externally, however, you get lots of nice straps and toggles including two HeadLocker ice axe attachments (with removable lash), a secure (and detachable) rope carry strap, daisy chain loops for attaching extra gear and tough metal hooks, and lower compression straps, which can be used to carry skis in an A-frame orientation.

Verdict

A minimalist backpack with a no-nonsense alpine style – but it may be too pared-back for some.

For more winter hiking kit, take a look at our list of the best winter waterproof jackets and the best winter walking boots.

About the author

James Forrest writes regular features and route guides for Trail and LFTO, and has been one of our main gear testers for the last few years. James is based on the edge of the Lake District so when he isn’t off on his latest crazy adventure or challenge, he’s walking in his local fells.

Sweat prickles my hairline and my calf muscles burn, still tight from a long car journey, as I climb. I shorten my steps and dig my toes into the dirt. The narrow path zigs left, cuts back right and after a few metres I swing my bag to the ground and look out over the lake below.

I breathe, deep and long, and then thank my lucky 21st-century stars that I’m only carrying waterproofs, food and water up here and not the dead weight of a deceased relative.

Ok, that took quite a sudden, dark turn.

But this is quite a dark tale, by our modern sensibilities. Photographer Tom Bailey and I are walking a corpse road.

There are many paths in British hillsides that I might call corpse roads, on account that they’re so ceaselessly steep that you think they might kill you by the time you reach the top. Or that they cling so tightly to barely boot-width edges that you think they might kill you in another way.

This is not one of those kinds of corpse roads. This is an actual, historic corpse road, along which people carried their dead, crossing moorland, bog, hills and river, to reach the nearest consecrated ground in which they could be buried.

The final journey begins

This one leads from the shores of Haweswater (more about that later) over rough, boggy land, to the neighbouring valley of Swindale Head. From here, the dead would be carried to Shap and the cemetery of St Michael’s churchyard, a journey of about 11km, climbing just under 500m on roads and paths as they exist now.

We’re not following exactly that path though. Worshippers of mountains and wild places that we are, we’re going to abandon it at Swindale Head and turn back towards the craggy heights.

For this is an area of the Lake District that is little trodden but presents views across the north-eastern fells that only the deer and that one eagle (more about him later too) usually get to see. It passes frothing, roaring waterfalls, dark cliffs, one remote bothy and at a high pass looks down on the place where we started, one of Lakeland’s most picturesque valleys.

That valley lies below us now, a glorious vista of knuckled hills, blue gleaming water and golden larch woods. A cool wind blows from the fells, ruffling the grass and shimmering the lake. A narrow waterfall chucks itself downhill like it’s drunk – sloshing and rushing happily to crash into the lake.

We only got out of the car 20 minutes ago and already we have this at our feet. I clamber down to the waterfall and splash the rain-cold water over my face. We have this at our fingertips. And there is much more yet to come.

For us now, this is a happy journey. We are here simply for the love of high and wild places, to try to temporarily sate that desire to go where few others do.

But for those people of the past, this was not so much the case. It must instead have been a sad, difficult, scary, hopeful and probably quite bonding trip across harsh ground with only your damp woollens and your own exertion to keep you warm.

Cumbria’s lost village

The journey for them began at Mardale Green, a village which no longer exists. In 1935 the church there held its last service, with 75 people inside and 1000 people listening out in the shifting sunlight.

Afterwards, it was dismantled, the houses of the hamlet blown up and a huge dam built at the north-western end of the lake. Within a few years, the level of the lake had risen by 29m and the village swallowed by water, like our chilly little waterfall here, spilling down from the hills.

Haweswater, once a natural lake, is now a reservoir supplying clean water to Manchester, though sometimes, during hot, dry summers, you can still see the ruins of the village through the shallow waves.

It was from here that people carried their dead, usually wrapped in a shroud and strapped to a stocky pony. It was said that the church didn’t really want folk using these ways for trade or regular passage, so, to dissuade this, the paths usually crossed the most difficult terrain possible.

Medieval people were also about as superstitious as it’s possible to get and particularly fearful of the dead, crossroads, the Devil and wiggly lines.

It was believed that spirits needed a straight line to travel along and sure enough, if you draw a line directly between Shap and the start of the corpse road, it is about as straight as a mapless, compass-less person could possibly walk.

Medieval folk also absolutely did not want their ghost relative returning to check on them or prop their ethereal feet up by the fire. So numerous methods were devised to make it difficult for them to do so.

The corpse was carried feet-forward, so that the body and spirit pointed away from home. The roads also crossed water, which it was believed that spirits could not pass over, and they avoided crossroads where the Devil lurked waiting to charm/curse the unaware.

All of these things – avoidance of trade passage, commitment to straight lines over not-straight land, purposely aiming for water – mean that corpse roads are often challenging, remote and rough. Which is just the sort of tick-list a hill-lover really loves.

And sure enough, as we crest the hill onto the unruly land beneath Selside, the whole sky opens up. This here is the land of exhilarating openness – we can see for miles. There is running grass, tumbling clouds and then, in the distance, the North Pennines.

We are only 510m up but we can see clear across the Eden Valley. Looking at the map later, I will learn that we are looking directly into High Cup Nick and over to Cross Fell. From the pale cloud drifting above, a rainbow arcs down to the horizon. And we are the only creatures here to see it.

Signs of life

Except, wait, we’re not. Just before the highest point of the pass, a thumb of land juts around to the west ahead of us and something small and brown is skipping across it... A herd of red deer hinds spring across the moor and up onto the slopes of Swinside. There must be 20 or more of them. In Scotland, this is not a rare sight, but in the Lake District it really is.

They disappear over the hill towards the valley that we will soon clamber into. First though, a descent into Swindale Head, a sandwich gobbled in the smattering rain, and our last steps along the corpse road. Here, we leave it, and its ghostly passengers as they continue to Shap and head back towards the hills.

Waterfalls climb alongside us, birch and rowan loiter beside their pools, discarding small round leaves of bronze and gold, which gleam in the water like dropped coins.

Their pale branches shine even more brightly in the gloom overhead and we clamber back and forth, hands deep in wet heather as we gain the top. A thin ridge runs alongside it and I can’t resist scrambling to the top to stride above the path and the running water.

A cold wind blows a sprinkling of sharp rain with it and I pull up my buff, tighten my hood and settle in to the hillwalker’s trudge. At the end of this valley is a bothy, shelter and the promise of hiking snacks. And, we will find out, something altogether more unsettling.

House of horrors

I said earlier that the corpse road was not the sort of road that made me afraid of becoming a corpse myself. That is true. The bothy however, which is maintained specifically to prevent people becoming corpses by means of cold, exhaustion and weather, makes me absolutely terrified of it.

I do not mean to belittle any of the work that is done in gaining and maintaining these cottages – bothies have provided essential shelter to those who have needed it at times they have needed it most. They foster friendships, whisky-clinking and multi-day adventures in the meantime.

Bothies are fantastic, we’re lucky to have them and I have gratefully stumbled into one, soaked and aching, more than once.

But another thing is also true: an abandoned house in the middle of nowhere is creepy.

This one does, however, have a fireplace, leather sofas and a bag of unopened sweets so we stumble, soaked and grateful, in the door and make ourselves as comfortable. Until I read something about ‘hooks’ and ‘beware the clown’ which someone has clearly scrawled in the bothy book as a funny joke to spook tired hillwalkers.

“Tom,” I say, “can we go now?”

At about the same time that he says, “Odd… look at those hooks,” of which there are several, nailed to a ceiling beam. We scarper.

So, it’s back out onto a just-about traceable path in the untraversed moorlands. Soon, we leave that too, and pick up the path over Gatescarth Pass. Here, rain above us and broken rock at our feet, we reach one of the most spectacular views of the day – a close-up, awe-inspiring spectacle that makes the spirit tingle.

Here, Harter Fell rises above us, its cliffs blackened and scarred by centuries of rain and rockfall. They are 400m of crag and thrilling intimidation, the abode of ravens and raptors, and the last known eyrie of England’s only golden eagle.

Where eagles dare

Riggindale Crag rises alluringly from the water to the narrow top of High Street, a long-nosed ridge that goes straight from the water to the mountain-top. On either side, it falls away in sheer rock faces, tempting all lovers of high places – eagles among them.

In the late 1950s a pair of golden eagles arrived, nested and bred. Though a number of young were produced, the population never took hold and the last male disappeared in 2016. Still, it’s easy to imagine the slow majesty of the bird soaring above these dark cliffs, tracing the ground with yellow eyes.

Back at the car, I pause and look back at the crag, the lake, the tops of High Street, Mardale Ill Bell and Harter Fell.

I remember the submerged village and the people that walked from here to Shap, wanting the best for their relatives even in the afterlife. There is history here, mythology, wildlife and enticing heights. There are stories of loss, for sure, but there are also riches to be gained.

Cumbria’s Corpse roads

"Cumbria has around 25 surviving corpse roads. These paths were used in medieval times to carry the dead from remote parishes to the ‘mother’ church. There was good money to be made from funerals, so mother churches held onto the monopoly for many centuries.

But in the 17th and 18th centuries local churches successfully petitioned Bishops for their own burial rites and graveyards. Mardale parishioners complained of the ‘toil and inconvenience’ of carrying bodies to Shap via Swindale Head, and their petition was finally successful in 1736.

One legend told of a corpse being taken on horseback but the horse bolting and, despite a long search, neither horse nor corpse ever being found. It is said its ghost continues to haunt the road. However, this ghost is also claimed by at least three other corpse roads in Cumbria."

– From the book Corpse Roads of Cumbria by Alan Cleaver.

About the author

Sarah Ryan (above) worked for both Trail and Trail Running magazines during her rich and varied career as a writer, nature educator, wild camping guide and mountain leader. She lives and works just a stone's throw from the Peak District National Park, where she walks, runs, cycles and camps regularly in both her spare and professional time.

There are two main types of backpacking stove systems vying for top spot in the eyes of wild campers and multi-day hikers: canister-top stoves and personal stove systems. But which is best for you?

Canister-top stoves are the domain of ultralighters. These lightweight, tiny, cheap and super-simple stoves consist of a burner head that screws directly onto the top of your gas canister – and that’s it. You get maximum no-nonsense camping functionality at the minimum weight possible. But there are cons. They can be slow, flimsy, unstable, vulnerable to the wind and not that powerful.

A common alternative is a personal stove system – an all-in-one, cohesive, locked-together setup featuring a burner head that screws onto a propane-butane gas canister, paired with a cooking pot that securely connects to the burner.

The result is a compact, integrated unit, often equipped with heat exchangers for rapid boiling, improved fuel efficiency and better wind protection. But, they are far heavier, bulkier and pricier than canister-top stoves, so (as always) there are pros and cons.

Of course, you can also get larger camping stoves, which are ideal when cooking for multiple people, but these are much more suited to car camping than backpacking.

My 60-second overview

If you favour a personal stove system, the Primus Lite+ is a great option. This tower-style, all-in-one cooking system – including 800ml aluminium pot, 1,500W-powered stove (with Piezo ignition), fuel stabiliser and bio-plastic lid – has loads of clever design features.

The pot has a useful pouring spout, the lid doubles as both strainer and mug, the cork-lined insulating sleeve features an integrated spoon pocket, the webbing handle also serves as a hanging kit (a niche accessory but useful for some), and the stove-to-pot twist-lock attachment is seamless and strong.

You also get all of the usual features you’d expect with an integrated stove – excellent packaway with almost-everything (including 100g gas canister) ‘nesting’ inside the pot, a heat exchanger for enhanced heat transfer and fuel efficiency, and an over-sized, foldable control valve for precise flame adjustment.

In 2021, Primus also made several eco upgrades to the original 2015 design, including switching 95% of the plastics used in the lid and canister stand to a new bio-plastic material, and replacing the original pot sleeve with a more sustainable cork material.

If we’re being fussy, the hefty weight (427g) will put many ultralight wild campers off. The burner head isn’t perhaps as wide as we’d expect and the power output of the stove is a little low considering the expensive price-tag.

Annoyingly, you can’t fit the stabiliser feet inside the 800ml pot (alongside a gas canister and the burner head), while simmering is decent but not great.

Overall, however, I really like this camp cooking system. It’s well-designed, easy to use, looks great, delivers solid all-round performance and has some excellent features.

Power output and boil times

The Primus Lite+ is a well-engineered all-in-one stove system built for stability and efficiency. It starts with stabiliser feet that securely clip around a gas canister, providing a solid base. The burner head then screws onto the canister and offers a top-tier design with decent wind protection.

The 0.8L pot locks into place above the burner, forming a cohesive unit. The burner features Primus’ Laminar Flow Burner technology, which lowers the centre of gravity for added stability, while the pot includes a heat exchanger at its base.

This waffled ring of metallic coils improves heat transfer by focusing energy from the flame directly into the pot, reducing waste heat that would otherwise dissipate into the air - an issue common with basic canister-top stoves.

Primus says the Lite+ is highly fuel-efficient and its 4,500 BTU (1,500W) burner can boil 0.5 litres of water in under three minutes, making it quick and economical for simple backcountry meals.

I tested the boil times of the Primus Lite+ on a warm but breezy spring day. I added 500ml of cold tap water (17.9C) to the pot and, using a brand new Primus 100g gas canister, set the burner’s flame to max.

Using a food grade thermometer I measured the exact temperature of the water, with the thermometer’s probe neatly placed inside the water through one of the lid’s perforated holes. It took exactly 2 minutes and 43 seconds for the water to reach 100C.

That is niftily quick, although I’d expect the speed to reduce in less favourable conditions.

Weight and packability

The Primus Lite+ is an all-in-one cooking system, which means it’s never going to compete with ultralight canister-top stoves like the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe (98g) or Soto Windmaster (97g).

It’s not particularly light or compact, so it’s definitely not a stove for gram-counters or fastpackers aiming to cover 50km in a day.

However, for the average wild camper who isn’t obsessing over every gram, the Primus Lite+ is completely reasonable and proportionate. It packs away neatly, with all components – including the burner head and a 100g gas canister – nesting inside the 0.8L pot.

The only slight annoyance is that the fuel stabiliser feet don’t fit inside alongside the burner head and canister, which is a minor inconvenience.

Packed down, it measures roughly 10x10x12.5cm – not exactly tiny, but certainly not huge, and it won’t dominate your rucksack space.

In terms of weight, the full kit (stove, pot, lid, fuel stabiliser and hanging kit) comes in at 427g (excluding gas canister), which is virtually identical to the JetBoil Flash 2.0 (426g for the complete set).

Features

The Primus Lite+ comes packed with thoughtful features that enhance usability in the wild. The 0.8L hard-anodised aluminium pot includes a pouring spout, making it much easier to transfer boiling water into a mug or meal pouch without spills.

The lid – made from bio-based plastic – doubles as a cup and has perforations for draining water, handy if you're cooking noodles or pasta. The insulated pot sleeve, made from a blend of cork and a poly-cotton ripstop fabric, allows you to hold the pot comfortably without burning your hands, and even use it as a large mug if you wish.

There's also a built-in Piezo igniter, so you don't need to carry matches or a lighter – this has worked faultlessly during our field tests so far.

It’s also worth nothing that, if you want to use the Lite+ with another cooking pot or pan (other than the one provided), then there is a protocol for this. Three screws are stored on the stove pot’s handle. You can screw these into three holes atop the burner head, thus creating a raised platform onto which other pots or pans can sit flatly.

In my eyes, this all seems a bit of a faff and somewhat over-engineered – but you may feel differently. Some campers may like this approach.

You can also buy optional accessories for the Primus Lite+, including a compatible tea/coffee press (£15), which is ideal for those who enjoy a proper brew at camp. This adds an extra touch of comfort and convenience, turning the stove into more than just a basic water boiler.

Price and performance

At £130, the Primus Lite+ isn’t exactly cheap, but for an all-in-one stove system, it still represents pretty decent value. It undercuts several rivals, such as the JetBoil Stash (£154.99) and JetBoil Flash 1.0L (£149.99), offering a modest saving without sacrificing too much in terms of performance.

The design and build quality are at the premium end of the spectrum, with clever engineering and thoughtful features throughout. You get solid, reliable all-round performance – particularly for boiling water – but it’s not amazingly well suited to a wide variety of cooking styles beyond basic tasks.

If you’re looking for better value, Fire Maple’s range of integrated stove systems deliver similar functionality at a lower price, albeit with less refined construction.

Or, you might want to question whether you actually need an all-in-one stove system at all. A minimalist setup – like pairing a Hornet BRS-3000T stove (28g, £16.99 on Amazon) with an Alpkit MytiMug 650 pot (127g, £39) – can save you weight, space and money if your cooking needs are simple**.**

Verdict

A stylish, colourful, well-designed and premium all-in-one stove system – but it’s pricey and heavy.

About the author

James Forrest writes regular features and route guides for Trail and LFTO, and has been one of our main gear testers for the last few years. James is based on the edge of the Lake District so when he isn’t off on his latest crazy adventure or challenge, he’s walking in his local fells.

Are you a lass who's fed up with the stiffness and lack of breathability of hiking boots but want something with a bit more support than your average trainer? Ah, dear reader, it seems you have stumbled into the land of women's walking shoes: a dreamy compromise between comfort, support, responsiveness and breathability.

As more and more people opt for modern, lightweight hiking footwear over a heavier, stiffer walking boot, the market has grown from traditional approach-style shoes for scrambling, to all manner of low-ankle shoes designed for every type of hiking.

Deciding on the best women's walking shoes for you can be tricky though - which is why we've rounded up some of the best on the market to choose from, no matter your use case.

Editor's note: This group test of the best women's walking shoes was updated on 22 September 2025 to ensure our award-winning lineup is current and available for purchase. In this update, we added the Danner N45 (see below).

What are the best women's walking shoes of 2025?

Best women's walking shoes overall:Salewa Women's Pedroc PTX Shoe

Best value women's walking shoes: Keen Targhee IV Waterproof

Most comfortable hiking shoes: Hoka Stinson 7

Best minimalist hiking shoes: Xero Mesa Trail II

From trail-shoe-adjacent options offering mud-bashing squishiness, to slick-backed Gore-Tex all-rounders, to more traditional leather and suede options, the choice is endless.

So, to help you make the right buying decision, our group of female testers here at LFTO have been putting various women's walking shoes to the test all over the UK and beyond, to bring you the very best tried-and-tested recommendations.

And before we get started on the detailed reviews – the difference between men and women's versions is usually down to width, with women's shoes being on the narrower side in comparison to men's. Wear what you're most comfortable with if your sizing happens to overlap.

Speaking of overlap, you’ll also notice a crossover here between the best women's walking shoes and several trail running shoe options.

We believe that many trail shoes are suited to walking as well as running due to their extra cushioning, bounce and grip, but the devil's in the detail when it comes to whether they can be swapped like-for-like with hiking boots.

How we tested the best women's hiking shoes

The female LFTO testing team have been hard at work to bring you the very best tried-and-tested recommendations when it comes to the best women's hiking shoes.

The following reviews were written by a mix of different people: Fliss Freeborn and Evie Nichols, writers for Trail and LFTO, Jenna Maryniak, deputy editor of Trail magazine, plus freelance testers Fran Brosnahan and Rachel Collins.

As a team we have a variety of different foot shapes, cushioning preferences and have tested each shoe in every corner of the UK and beyond, from Cornwall, to Wales, to the Lakes, to Scotland and the Picos de Europa in Northern Spain.

Check out how we test gear for more info.

Best women's hiking shoes reviewed:

What to look for in a women's hiking shoe

Before you start shopping, consider the type of hiking you'll be doing. Are you planning short day hikes on well-maintained trails, or are you tackling long, rugged mountain treks? Different hikes require different features.

For light hiking on easy woodland trails, look for lightweight shoes with moderate support. For longer day hikes on varied terrain, opt for shoes with better ankle support and a good amount of cushioning on the midsole. If you’re backpacking on multi-day hikes with a heavy backpack, choose shoes with excellent support, durability, and stability over a pair of flimsier trail shoes.

Fit and comfort

A proper fit is essential to prevent blisters and general foot misalignment, which can have consequences for ankles, knees and hips further down the line. When considering fit, ensure there is about a thumb's width between your toes and the end of the shoe, which allows for swelling during exercise and in hot weather.

Your foot should not be squeezed at any point, especially not at the toes as that's a fast way of getting horrible blisters on your pinkies. Arch support should match your foot’s arch type, whether low, neutral, or high - definitely consider insoles to help with this if you need to.

It's best to try shoes on in the afternoon when your feet are naturally swollen, and wear the socks you plan to hike in for the most accurate fit.

Material

The material of the shoe affects its weight, breathability, and water resistance. Leather offers excellent durability and support but tends to be heavier and less breathable.

Synthetic materials are generally lighter and more breathable, but less durable and can contribute to microplastic pollution on the hill as they wear out over time.

Waterproof membranes like Gore-Tex keep water out but can reduce breathability, making them suitable for wet conditions but potentially less comfortable in hot, dry environments.

Weight

The weight of your hiking shoe impacts your energy expenditure - but it's not always a case of "the lighter, the better". Lighter shoes can reduce fatigue but might offer less support and durability on rockier or more undulating trails.

Heavier shoes provide better support and protection but can be cumbersome, especially over short distances where they're not needed.

Consider whether you're looking for a direct boot replacement, in which case you'll want something slightly on the beefier end of the spectrum, or if you're after a lighter more trainer-ish shoe for shorter, less demanding walking.

Support and cushioning

Good support and cushioning help absorb shock and reduce strain on your feet and legs (if you're not a hardcore minimalist like LFTO writer Fliss Freeborn).

Midsoles made of EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) are lighter and cushier, while PU (polyurethane) midsoles are firmer and more durable. Durable rubber outsoles with deep lugs offer better grip on varied terrain, ensuring stability and traction.

Durability

Durability is key for a long-lasting hiking shoe which won’t fall apart 50 miles in. Look for shoes with reinforced toe caps, sturdy stitching, and durable materials such as ripstop weaves.

These features contribute to the shoe’s ability to withstand rough conditions and extend its lifespan, making it better for the environment too.

Breathability

Breathability is crucial if you hike in hot conditions or are a self-proclaimed sweaty betty. Shoes with breathable materials, such as mesh panelling help keep your feet cool and dry, wicking moisture away rather than it pooling up in a hot, sticky mess between your toes.

Water resistance

For wet or muddy conditions, waterproof shoes with a Gore-Tex membrane or similar technology are essential if you fancy keeping your feet dry.

However, it’s important to note that waterproof shoes might be less breathable on warmer days. If you hike mainly in dry conditions, you might prioritise breathability over waterproofing - especially if you're happy just to get your feet wet from time to time.

Price

You can spend as much or as little as you like on a pair of hiking shoes. Budget-friendly options start from £30-60, and the range continues into high-end models which can soar well over the £150 mark.

While it’s tempting to go for cheaper footwear, investing in a quality pair often pays off in terms of comfort, support, and durability. Higher-priced shoes typically offer better materials, construction, and features that make your hiking experience far more enjoyable.

Plus, you can often find last year's shoes on sale from retailers at a hefty discounted prices, giving you the best of both worlds.

About the author

LFTO writer Fliss Freeborn compiled this piece using her own testing experience and that of the other female LFTO team. Fliss is usually found cooking a succulent meal halfway up a mountain, or cooking a succulent meal on a beach.

She has also cooked many succulent meals in Forestry Commission car parks. She prefers hiking shoes to boots for almost all activities, including cooking succulent meals.

Freshly launched in the last couple of weeks, the new Coros Nomad watch is built for anyone with a passion for outdoors and the mountains. The first and only Coros watch with a built-in microphone, the Nomad is designed as an adventure companion for logging both activities and memories – but is that enough to put it up there with the best outdoor watches?

What makes the Nomad stand out most from its Coros siblings is that it’s a much more holistic outdoors tracker. In a nutshell, the “Apex is built for mountain athletes, whereas Nomad is built for mountain adventures”, shares Coros Wearable CEO and co-founder Lewis Wu in our pre-launch meeting.

Evidently a team that practices what it preaches when it comes to adventure sport, the Coros founders explained that they wanted a new watch that could act as an adventure journal as the icing on the proverbial cake, alongside the usual sports and biometrics tracking that’s become the standard in outdoor watches.

That being said, the Nomad was clearly made with anglers in mind. There’s a huge amount of fishing data and logging options available. You can log where and when you catch a fish, including its size, weight and species.

It allows you to mark down your favourite catch locations and even tide times for the next time you’re in the area. The watch aims to improve your chances of catching a bite during key fishing times, with a best fishing time suggestion for those in new areas.

As with all sport profiles, you can mark waypoints and points of interest to circle back to. There are heaps of angling profiles, including fishing via: surf, boat, flatwater, kayak, offshore, inshore… the list goes on. Even the camo colourways of khaki green, taupe brown and dark grey are reminiscent of riverways.

Why are we testing the Nomad on LFTO then? Because angling lovers aside, the Nomad is a brilliant outdoors watch in its own right. Its features will suit adventure athletes of all shapes and sizes.

While models like the Pace, Vertix, and Apex clearly position themselves as athlete-focused at the core, Coros describes the Nomad as “your go-anywhere, do-anything adventure watch”. Those willing to not get too hung up on semantics will quickly discover that there’s a huge amount of performance crossover from other models.

Essentially, the Nomad is a more versatile extension of other Coros watches, with functionality both to help fulfil off-grid adventures and more serious athletic goals. On the adventure side of things, I found the crisp MiP screen and turn-by-turn colour mapping a real highlight.

There seems to be no adventure too long for the Nomad either, with a colossal three-week battery capacity that just makes life easier. The unique voice pin feature is a fun add on, but whether that adds value is up to individual preference.

How I tested

I tested the Nomad out on the trails, lakes and roads of southern France. I took the watch on trail runs of varying distances in both the 40°C summer heat and early morning cool, often using it to map out and explore new routes through nature areas.

The Nomad led me on hikes over technical terrain in some of the most picturesque spots in southern Europe. All the way from sweltering runs to icy cold swims in the ancient gorges and the vast azure lakes of Provence – I wanted to find out just how versatile the watch could be.

Alongside a control watch, the Nomad kept me company as I made the most out of the beautiful yet brutal European summer in some of the most rugged, remote and breathtaking spots imaginable.

A summer to remember, I tested the voice-pin and image-pin features to immortalise the highlights of each adventure. So, let’s get into the nitty gritty…

Design and screen

The Nomad’s screen is a 33mm (1.3in) memory in pixel (MiP) touchscreen that’s been upgraded from the previous Coros models. The choice of MiP over AMOLED equates to a longer battery life, yet still felt vibrant enough in outdoor settings, which I particularly appreciated during sunny testing runs and hikes.

The MiP display won my heart quickly when compared to my older Polar Grit X Pro watch with its always-on AMOLED screen, which quickly sucks battery life even when not in use (though a lot of watches now allow you to turn off the ‘always-on’ setting).

Watch faces can also be easily swapped out for a handful of designs available to download on the Coros app. There’s not as much choice as on Garmin, but it’s still a nice selection with the option to customise the screen with your own image. I was dubious that this feature would add any value, but a recent sunny hike in the Calanques of the French Riviera quickly put paid to any doubts. (see picture above).

Unfortunately, there’s just something about the matte finish that makes the casing look a little plasticky and cheap to me. Looks can be deceiving though, since the bezel and backing are reportedly made from a “high-strength” dual-layer polymer and aluminium alloy. At 61g on my scales, it’s a lightweight ensemble that doesn’t look too oversized on my wrist.

Though the Nomad has complete touchscreen capabilities, there are also three physical navigation buttons (for when sweat gets in the way of dexterity) set on both sides of the screen: an action button, a top dial and a back button.

The top dial does most of the work and is scrollable, so it's helpful when flicking through lots of real-time data like daily activity, training load and status, recovery, sleep, stress, heart rate variability (HRV), weather, elevation, heart rate and more.

Meanwhile, the new left ‘action button’ is customisable and can be programmed as per different sport profiles. This includes either adding a shortcut for the next lap, adding a pin or switching watch face view.

The in-watch performance widgets offer a quick look into current activity and fitness trends, as well as biometrics. The selection shown can be personalised to match the metrics most important to you.

As there’s no kayaking profile and the azure blue waters of the gorges nearby were calling my name, I was able to quickly create a ‘custom’ activity with GPS, distance, calorie, and time tracking that I pinged straight to the watch for use. That’s just one example of the multitude of options for customisation, which is a real plus on my books.

Meanwhile, outside of the watch’s ecosystem, there’s much more detailed analytics and reporting available when syncing to the Coros app, which I was glad to find happens impressively quickly with Bluetooth activated (unlike other watches).

GPS accuracy

During my month’s testing period, I took the Nomad out on the trails, roads and riverways of southern France. In order to ascertain accuracy, I tracked activities in parallel to a trusted control watch.

When it comes to finding GPS, the Nomad unsurprisingly really excels. It’s able to pick up GPS signal almost instantly, much faster than my other devices. On the go, the Nomad maintains a strong GPS signal even in the thick of nature.

When comparing distance and pace to my control watch, the distance was always spot on, with pace within a 3secs per minute variation. It’s easy to switch through to the on-watch map screen while running, which gives you a map view of your surroundings in case you’re having trouble finding your way (more on navigation later).

Battery life

The Nomad’s battery life is thoroughly impressive. One full battery lasted me three weeks of constant use and almost daily activity tracking with plenty of map navigation use. And when it finally came to recharge, the Nomad only took an hour to get back to full juice!

In the meantime, my usual smartwatch had to be recharged twice. Granted, batteries typically wear down over the years, so it’s no real surprise that a brand-new watch will pip my much-loved and weathered five-year-old Polar.

Coros’ battery life estimates are spot-on. They quote 22 days of daily use with sleep, daily stress and heart rate measurements, 50hrs when using all systems GPS, or 34hrs when using dual-frequency and all systems GPS. Ultrarunners, eat your heart out.

Just as with the Pace Pro, charging is via a small USB-C A2 charging adaptor that clicks firmly into the indented rear port. This port is deeper than other models to allow for a more secure hold after customer feedback. To then plug in the watch for charging, Coros relies on the assumption that the customer will likely have a USB-C charging cable (or several) and plug at home to use.

But if you don’t have a USB-C cable, then you can apparently reach out to the support team who will send you one. To make sure the adaptor doesn’t get lost, it can be popped into the provided little silicone mould attached to a keychain, for on-the-go charging as and when you need it (not often, if the battery life is anything to go by).

Navigation and mapping

The Coros app provides intuitive mapping functionality that’s simple to use and then ping right to your watch ahead of a run or hike. The route can also be edited during an activity if you decide to alter your path. There’s connectivity with apps like Strava or Komoot, but I found that the Coros system provided everything I needed.

For off-grid navigation, there are also global maps that can be downloaded via the app with a plentiful 32GB storage within the watch itself. While these features are nothing new to the Coros range, a new function found in the Nomad is the ability to check the weather and save up to five locations for weather updates (when synced to the app).

This includes temperature and real-feel, as well as chance of rain, wind strength and forecasted weather for the next six hours, plus for the coming week. Living in a hot location, I particularly appreciate the UV index metric to know how best to prepare and protect myself for sunny runs.

During activities, the turn-by-turn navigation works well and I found the colour screen with place names super clear to decipher while in motion. My only gripe is when the nav arrow pops appears when coming up to a turn, the watch screen essentially locks and you cannot zoom in or out to check where you are. Coros seems pretty responsive to issues, so hopefully this is something that can be sorted in future updates.

There's a back-to-start function to avoid getting lost, while the only new update from other Coros models is the addition of street names to the map. Locations like nice viewpoints or a handy public toilet can all be stored in the map via a pin, which can also have audio and visual data added (more on this later).

There are all the usual performance metrics provided after an activity, including speed, heart rate, elevation, calories burned, training effect on fitness and stats from each lap. Meanwhile, graphs and satellite maps help to better visualise the data.

Sport profiles and biometric tracking

Like the Pace Pro and Vertix watches, sports tracking is accessed via the top right toggle. The watch is touchscreen, but I find it easier to stick to physical buttons during sweaty workouts.

There’s the option to follow one of the free training plans in the Coros app, as well as pre-made workouts like intervals. I like the option to set an activity alert to a specific sport profile, which would allow an athlete who trains to heart rate zones to receive alerts when they stray over a certain limit. There’s also alerts possible for distance, pace, cadence, nutrition and power metrics.

For every outdoor activity I recorded, the GPS loaded within 10secs. There’s the option to completely customise each sport profile so you can prioritise the data you’re most interested in while tracking. The original set-up on activity pages is numeric overload for me, so I simplified my run display to 3-4 metrics per page, which made it far easier to decipher progress while on the move.

I found that sleep and overnight HRV tracking showed similar metrics to Oura, Garmin and Polar when worn together. Sleep quality analytics include proportions of awake, REM, light, and deep sleep each night, advising on normal ranges and patterns over time.

Similarly, Coros uses your data to calculate a normal range for HRV, which can be used to find signs of overtraining, fatigue or even the beginning of illness. In all, the personal biometrics tracking seem in line with other smartwatches out there, and is certainly useful for those interested in the data.

Voice pin function

The voice pin function is the big USP of the Nomad watch. To use this during an activity, you have to set up the activity button as a shortcut to the voice pin function, and this has to be done for each individual activity.

After that, all it takes is the press of a button to record an audio memory, which is then registered and can be listened back to via the app. The recording is also automatically transcribed – a nice touch. There's no speaker on the watch itself, but the audio recording function is super clear and loud.

Other pins can be added in-activity or after the fact, including pins for water spots, supplies, hazards, toilets, shelter and campgrounds.

Adding images and videos onto a pin in the location they were taken is done via the app. Activities and memories are shareable through a link generator, including a snazzy 3D flyover view.

In terms of connectivity, the Nomad supports sensor pairing via Bluetooth (not ANT+) for your heart rate straps, power meters and speed/cadence sensors. Coros has also linked up with GoPro to enable camera controls via the watch.

Coros features unique to the Nomad

• Ambiq Apollo 510 Processor: A faster and more powerful processor, which mainly improves the panning and zooming on maps during navigation.

• Screen made from hardened mineral glass: A new process that’s designed to be more scratch- and crack-resistant. Coros says this should be more robust and tougher than sapphire, with a slightly raised bezel to protect the screen.

• Dual-mic set-up with noise reduction: The first Coros watch with an integrated microphone for clear audio recordings. The mic can be used to save voice pins and use commands when saving locations.

• New ‘action button’ and button layout: Based on the feedback from Apex and Vertix users, the action button has been set onto a different side to the other buttons for better dexterity. The action button turns on the screen backlight, switches between map and data screens during an activity, and can be programmed as a shortcut to the user’s most-used features.

Verdict

As you can tell, the Coros Nomad offers a huge amount of data tracking, navigation and adventure journaling.

As a runner and hiker, what makes it stand out from other watches for me is the excellent battery life and crisp and clear navigation.

Features like voice-pin and extra sports profiles are nice, but more like the icing on the cake and for me, added no extra value.

At £319 ($349), it’s an excellent value smartwatch with heaps of training advice and support.

Looking for something more lightweight for past-paced adventures? See our list of the best running watches.

About the author

Kate Milsom was previously a digital content writer for Live for the Outdoors, but now works with us as a freelance gear tester. In her career as a specialist sports journalist, Kate has worked with industry-leading titles including 220 Triathlon, Cycling Plus, Road.cc and Cyclist. Prior to this, Kate studied English literature and French at university, then got the outdoors bug and never looked back.

She's an accomplished athlete, too, having competed in multiple marathons, ultramarathons, half-Ironmans and swimruns.

When the hills are drenched in golden sunlight, it’s time ditch the walking trousers, free your knees and reach for a pair of comfy hiking shorts.

By and large, most of us prefer to indulge in our wanderlust when the weather is warmer. Hiking from April through to October is very appealing in the northern hemisphere when the wind drops, the sun shines, and the temperature rises.

What are the best hiking shorts of 2025?

Just like their full-length counterparts, walking shorts vary in construction, weight, fit, and price, amongst other factors. Here, you will find our favourite walking shorts that each bear a certain strong point, be it value, lightness, or durability, for example.

Best in Test: Patagonia Quandary Hiking Shorts

Best Value: Keela Bidean Shorts

Best lightweight hiking shorts: Inov8 Venturelite 11” Short

Editor's note: This article was updated for the summer 2024 hiking season. Look out for a similar update in spring 2025.

How we tested the best hiking shorts

The vast majority of the hiking shorts below were tested and recommended by Chris Williams (above), one of our most experienced gear testers. As a hiking shorts fan, Chris doesn't use them exclusively in summer, but prefers to wear them year-round on local trails and beyond in all but the coldest conditions. Chris joined LFTO in 2021 and has several years of journalistic and outdoor industry experience.

The best hiking shorts reviewed:

How do I buy the right hiking shorts?

What length of shorts is best?

Longer length shorts provide your thighs with a little more protection but may not be as agile for scrambling. Short shorts are less restrictive, but the look isn’t to everybody’s tastes. The lengths of shorts are categorised by inseam length, which is the distance between the crotch and the hem.

How should hiking shorts fit?

A comfy, non-restrictive fit around the waist and legs is absolutely crucial. With an elasticated waist, the fit will be more forgiving. If not it’s more important that the size is spot-on. Also consider whether you prefer baggier, more ventilated legs, or a slimmer, more athletic fit.

How many pockets do I need?

Do you just need a small pocket in which to keep change for an ice cream, or cavernous pouches for a map and guidebook? Large cargo pockets will add weight to shorts but may provide useful storage.

What materials are best?

Hiking shorts are usually made from nylon or polyester – materials that provide a good balance between weight, durability, moisture wicking, protection and breathability. Using recycled nylon and polyester helps improve sustainability and a PFC-free DWR if it has one.

Many shorts fabrics are also blended with elastane (also called spandex or Lycra) for added stretch. It improves freedom of movement, makes a closer fit and increases comfort. Two-way stretch fabrics stretch either vertically or horizontally. Four-way stretch fabrics stretch in both ways, crosswise and lengthwise.

Some brands use natural fibres like bamboo or hemp, which are softer and do increase comfort and sustainability further. But, typically, cotton, bamboo, and hemp aren't as good in wet conditions as synthetic fibres.

What type of waistband is best?

Most hiking shorts feature belt loops, meaning you can use a belt (usually sold separately) to fine-tune the fit around your waist. Some shorts have more elasticated waistbands for an adjustable fit, while others have integrated belts. Shorts are commonly closed around the waist using a press stud, snap or flat button.

About the author

Chris Williams is LFTO's Senior Writer and a gear geek for all things hiking and trekking. He has been part of the LFTO team since 2021, prior to which he worked for one of New Zealand's largest outdoor gear brands.

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Stepping into a bouldering gym can be jarring for the senses: there's bright lights, loud music and the tang of chalk mixed with sweat. Everywhere you look, climbers are creeping up the walls, standing under them and falling off them.

Not to mention the fact that as soon as you cross the threshold, you're entering a socially coded space, where a set of unspoken rules govern people's behaviour. These are the kinds of rules which aren’t written on a poster on the front desk, but you pick up through experience.

When is it okay to offer someone advice? Can you flash your friend’s project? And what about sneaking to the loos in your climbing shoes? Not knowing the answers can be intimidating, especially in a space where every move is on display. Here are eight unwritten rules every indoor boulderer should know.

For the rest of our unwritten rules series, check out 10 things you might be doing wrong trail running and the dos and don'ts of exploring on foot.

1. Don’t beta spray

Beta spraying, otherwise known as giving unsolicited advice to fellow climbers, often comes from a place of wanting to seem knowledgeable and competent – I’m the person who knows, I’ve figured it out, and now it’s my duty to inform you of my superior method.

In my experience, it’s closely linked to mansplaining. It’s not always pernicious, as sometimes a bit of advice about how to solve a problem is welcome. But sometimes you want to figure it out for yourself, without someone jutting in asking, “have you tried this?”.

The beta sprayer is essentially prioritising their need for recognition over your own needs. There might be many ways of solving a problem, so their method isn’t necessarily the best – it just works for them. And when someone tells you how it’s done, they’re depriving you of the satisfaction of having solved it yourself. Not cool.

2. Avoid flashing someone else’s project (unless you're a comp kid)

If there’s something that your friend is trying really hard on, and has been for multiple sessions, then you must avoid flashing it in front of them – unless they explicitly tell you they want the beta. A climber’s ego must be protected at all costs, otherwise it’ll crumble away like wet sandstone.

The only other exception here is if you’re a comp kid, in which case whizzing around the room flashing grown-ups’ long-standing projects is your sole objective.

3. Brushers’ rights

If you brush a problem, it’s your prerogative to climb it next. You’ve gone to the effort of brushing it, so you've staked a claim to these holds: they’re yours for a precious moment before they get greased and caked by the next person.

Brushing is a selfish act. It’s not done for the general good, but for the benefit of the brusher. It’s like if your friend assumes that the cookies you’ve baked are all for them – “ohh thank you, you shouldn’t have” – when really, you just wanted to eat them on the sofa in your pajamas. The cookies aren’t for you, and neither are the well-brushed holds.

Check out some more climbing accessories in our best gifts for the climber in your life (or yourself).

4. Sharing is caring

Don't hog the wall – it’s primary school stuff. You’re allowed one full try before letting someone else have a go. If you keep on falling on the first move, you can have up to about three goes, but after that point you’re going to need a beta break anyway.

If you keep on failing, it's best to wait until you can watch someone else flash it, then make random jabbing movements from the ground as you visualise the moves.

5. Don’t take your climbing shoes into the loos

This one should be an official rule, but unfortunately that's not always the case. Climbing gyms are already dirty, unventilated places, where people share germs like chalk, so if you’re someone who goes to the loo in your shoes then heads straight to the wall, spare a thought for the person who has to climb on those holds next.

Nowhere on the box you received with your new climbing shoes did it say that they’re a reliable go-to for sport climbing, bouldering and going to the loo. Their rubber sole is designed to provide friction on vertical walls, not toilet floors.

6. But wear your climbing shoes on the walls

Don’t wear climbing shoes in the toilets, but do wear them for actual climbing. No one wants sweaty toes touching where their hands are about to go.

It might be fun to show off how you can do the climb in your trainers, or barefoot, but why not get stronger so you can campus it – that’s more impressive, anyway.

7. Chalking up means that you’re about to go

The act of chalking up is a serious commitment to climb – it’s obvious to everyone else around you that you're not just idly chatting anymore. That means you now need to enter into an intricate sequence of social cues.

As my driving instructor reminds me, it’s all about awareness and planning. Check left, and then right. If there are other people eyeing up the same section of wall, you must bring together multiple pieces of information. Have they just climbed, so is it now your turn? Are they resting, or about to go?

The seasoned boulderer will gleam this with just a glance, but even so, it’s best to cover your back with one of those awkward points at the wall and a quick, “do you mind if I go?”, before falling from the first move.

8. Accept the social contract of projecting

Bouldering gyms tend to be friendly places. If you’re trying a climb at the same time as someone else, and you both fall in the same place, an unspoken bond grows between you. You must figure it out together, and neither of you can leave until both of you have done it. It's a social contract that should never be broken.

The movements you practise bouldering translate well to scrambling – learn the basics in our how to scramble guide.

About the author

Evie Nichols is Digital Writer for Live for the Outdoors. Based near the Peak District, she spends half of her time reviewing gear, and the other half repeatedly falling off rocks.

From over-enthusiastic dogs to getting lost to feeling slow, we take a look at the most common worries of being a walker – and offer some simple techniques to banish those fears for good.

Going for a walk is, 99.99% of the time, an absolute joy. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t things to worry about occasionally.

In this case we’re not talking about the obvious risks of hill and mountain walking, but about the simpler and more everyday challenges of walking in the UK countryside: cows and dogs; basic navigation or feeling slow.

How can you offset those anxious moments and get the best out of any walk? Here’s our advice, courtesy of LFTO and Country Walking writer Jenny (who’s had all of these and more, many times). And we asked some readers for their handy hints, too…

Encountering cattle

While spotting UK wildlife can be a pleasurable pass time, a herd of these hefty beasts can be a scary thing to encounter on a walk. Serious incidents understandably make headlines, but these are thankfully rare, and you should never meet dangerous bulls.

Recognised dairy breeds like Friesian and Jersey bulls are banned by law from any field with a footpath. Beef bulls are only permitted if they’re with cows, and farmers are advised to keep aggressive animals elsewhere.

Of course, bullocks and cows with calves can be daunting too, but farmer Richard Heady explains that your best approach is to be boring, and walk quietly at a steady pace. Start to dash, wave your arms or shout and they’ll think it’s all good fun and charge towards you.

If they do get a bit close, walking slowly towards them encourages them to back off, so you can keep going on your way. (Richard recorded a video with his advice a few years ago which is still relevant today).

Andrea Meanwell, the Lake District National Park Authority’s Farming Officer, also advises to move away slowly, adding: “Don’t turn your back on the cattle and don’t make eye contact as they can find this intimidating.”

Cattle see dogs as a particular threat, so keep your pet quiet and under close control. If things get tricky, let the dog off the lead so it can run and you can walk from the field. And if you can’t safely cross the field, you’re within your rights to go around, rejoining the path as soon as possible.

Reader tip:

"If they look frisky I always walk around the perimeter of the field regardless of where the path goes. It’s far safer. If they surround you but you have your back to the hedge simply walking towards them will get them to back off, I find.

"Also try standing still and letting them get used to you. Above all stay calm and relatively quiet." Natalie Covill

Being slow

Aesop had it right in his tortoise/hare fable: slow can win the race. It enjoys the race more, too. Charging uphill makes your heart hammer, lungs ache, and muscles flood with searing lactic acid. Setting a slow pace – and we mean s-l-o-w enough to let you chat easily – lets you breathe comfortably and relish those growing views without sweat stinging your eyeballs.

If it helps, professional mountain guides go slowly up hills and nobody is questioning their fitness. The point is that slow is a pace you can sustain – happily – for hours, perhaps smugly plodding past those hares you last saw at breakfast now flopped in agony on a boulder.

Flagging a bit? Singing a song (in your head, out loud; your choice) can boost morale. Snacking on a jelly baby or two (or, y'know, some energy bars) will boost energy. And briefly locking your back knee as you swing your other leg through transfers weight from hard-working quads to your supporting skeleton for one fleeting, reviving moment.

Reader tip:

"My weight held me back, I’d be worried that I’d look out of place, being the fat girl amongst the super-fit pro walkers and I worried that I wouldn’t be able to manage a decent walk. I was wrong to worry on both counts. The more I walked, the fitter I became." Sara Stephenson

Getting lost

Losing the way happens to us all and the most annoying advice is also the best: don’t panic! Rushing off in what you think is the right direction will only make things worse (we know, we’ve done it).

Obviously, a paper map and some basic map-reading skills, and a fully-charged smartphone loaded with a proper navigational app like OS Maps or Komoot, will help you out in this respect.

But if your battery is dead or phone signal has gone for a burton, the first thing to do is stop and have a break (a hiking snack works wonders on fraying nerves) and realise you’re not as lost as you think you are.

Look at the map and pinpoint the place where you last knew exactly where you were, say at a path junction or footbridge. Turning around is hard, but retracing your steps is often the safest option.
If that’s not possible, you can still narrow down where you are.

How long is it since you were at that known point? What’s the furthest you could have walked since, based on an average of 15 minutes to walk one kilometre (or one grid square on the map)?

You have to be somewhere within a circle of that size around your last known spot, and you probably know roughly in which direction. Then put your map to one side and look around.

Note features like hills, rivers, woods or church spires and think how the map should look, then pick it up and have a careful look for bits that match. And give yourself time.

Mountain Rescue recommends always having a head torch, so even if darkness falls you can find your way back.

Reader tip:

"Take photos along your route, like when you come to a junction. You can look at them to check which way you went on your return." Elaine Burgon

Meeting dogs

For many walkers, a canine companion is part of life. But if you’re not so comfortable around dogs, encountering them can be an anxious experience.

Whether on a farmyard or out on a footpath, strange dogs can be terrifying – especially if they’re barking or growling. The first thing to know is that a dog behaving aggressively has perceived you as a threat, either to its own safety, its territory or its people, so your safest course of action is to seem as unthreatening as possible.

David Ryan, Chairman of the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, has worked with the RSPCA to provide guidance on meeting unfamiliar dogs.

He suggests you stop walking but don’t turn your back; instead face the dog, but with your body angled slightly away from it. Don’t stare at it, but turn your head sideways and slightly down so you can watch it out of the corner of your eye.

It’s best not to shoo, kick or yell, but instead talk to it calmly in a soothing tone, and you might feel reassured if you can manoeuvre a coat or bag between you and the animal.

Try, as best you can, to stay relaxed, with your weight on your back foot as if you’re leaving calmly, and if necessary move away slowly, either backwards or sideways until it loses interest.
Very few dogs will press home a serious attack; most will be content you are leaving.

Read more advice from the RSPCA here.

Reader tip:

"Try not to scream, shout or wave your arms about; try firm commands of sit, stay or down, if you feel able to. And I suggest carrying a few dog treats, throwing them as far from you as possible to distract a dog you feel threatened by." Marie Dawn

Walking alone

This is mostly a worry for women walkers, and it covers everything from having an accident, to getting lost, to being attacked.

Jenny Walters, from Country Walking Magazine, says: "I’ve had all those worries too, even hit full panic a few times, but I love walking solo – space to think, notice more, beetle at my own pace, and there’s satisfaction too, in doing it all myself.

"I started by trying to rethink my perception of the risk; the odds of there being someone bad all the way out in the wilds are truly tiny. I reminded myself that all the tens of thousands of miles walked happily never make headlines.

"I built my navigation skills with a weekend course and lots of practice on routes I knew, to minimise the getting-lost panic. I also use OS Maps on my phone to confirm my pinpoint location when I need it.

"I’m extra cautious on difficult terrain, to try and avoid an accident – and I take all the time I need. You might find walking with a dog helps, or taking self-defence classes, and always tell someone where you’re headed and when you should be back.

"You can even share your location with a friend when you go for a walk, for added reassurance. You’ll find the more you do, the less you worry, as the positive memories and confidence grow.

"And I tell myself there are different risks in letting the fear stop me, in the exercise I’d miss and the soul-soothing views I wouldn’t get to see."

Reader tip:

“I used to pretend I was Julia Bradbury with a camera crew and producer behind me. I’m now happy being me and discovering new routes!” Maggi Thompson

About the author

Jenny Walters has been writing for Country Walking magazine for almost 20 years. She's tramped in New Zealand, trekked in Peru, hiked in the Alps and walked all over the British Isles, from Cape Wrath to Cape Cornwall, Mount Brandon to Yr Wyddfa.

The right walking socks depend on a number of factors, with season being a major one. If you're someone that goes out for treks in cooler and warmer months, you really ought to have the correct socks for each occasion. If you've tried doing a summer hike in thick winter socks, you'll know that's no fun, and the reverse is true too.

It's the same logic you apply to walking boots. You wouldn't use winter boots for fast summer day hikes or lightweight summer boots to tackle the CMD Arête in winter. We've put this guide together to help you not only know what to look for in walking socks but also to recommend our top-rated pairs.

What are the best walking socks of 2025?

The walking socks recommended here all excel in different conditions, but they all have a couple of commonalities. One is that they're all very well made, the other is they're all very comfortable and don't invite blisters.

Best in test: Darn Tough Light Hiker Micro Crew Lightweight With Cushion

Best value: 1000 Mile Approach Repreve Double Layer Sock

Best for summer: Icebreaker Merino Multisport Light Micro Sock

Best for winter: Bridgedale Explorer Heavyweight Merino Comfort Boot Sock

How we tested the best walking socks

Although one of the least visible, walking socks are one of our most thoroughly tested items because we use them on every single outing.

The socks recommended here were tested by Ben Weeks (left) and Chris Williams (right). Ben is the Gear Editor of our magazine, Trail, and is a qualified montain leader and climbing instructor.

Chris is one of our staff writers and gear testers on LFTO and our resident Kiwi outdoorsman who also has several years' experience as a journalist and in the outdoor industry.

The best walking socks reviewed:

Why use special walking socks for hiking?

There are three main reasons. Firstly, for hiking in colder conditions, an everyday cotton sock will not keep your feet warm.

In fact, it'll do the opposite. It'll sap heat from your feet and they'll get very cold. Merino and some synthetic materials can keep your feet warm even when the material itself gets damp.

Secondly, proper walking socks often feature carefully placed padding and other comfort features like flat seams. Additions like these help prevent blisters and keep your feet comfortable mile after mile.

Finally, walking socks are far more durable than their everyday counterparts. Types of construction like Nuyarn not only boost performance but durability too.

How to buy the right walking socks

What materials are best for walking socks?

There are three common materials used for walking socks: merino wool, polyester, and nylon. Why?

Merino wool is soft, lightweight, insulating, moisture-wicking, and very good at managing odour; polyester and nylon are great at transporting moisture away from the skin, and quite durable; and all three are good at keeping your feet warm even when the fabric is wet.

To get the benefits of all these materials, many walking socks are made with a merino-synthetic blend.

Avoid cotton socks for hiking. It holds onto moisture (including sweat), sapping body and causing discomfort.

What sock height is best for hiking?

This is a case of pairing your socks with your footwear.

Socks designed for use with walking boots tend to be around calf height to prevent rubbing between your shins and the boots' ankle cuffs. Ankle-height socks are suitable for use with hiking shoes or mid-height boots.

Meanwhile, knee-high socks provide more warmth and insulation to your lower leg. Some also provide compression to improve circulation around your calf muscles.

Is it better to get a slightly bigger or smaller sock size?

Sock sizes have a foot size range, so you shouldn't have an issue finding the right size. But if you're between sizes, or at the upper or lower end of a size range, it's generally best to round down. The reason being that if the socks are too big, they can ruck and wrinkle, which is annoying, uncomfortable, and potentially cause blisters.

That said, too small and socks can restrict circulation, leading to cold feet. Consider whether or not you intend to wear liner socks when choosing your size. Some socks are sold in shoe size ranges, while others will be sized as small, medium or large, so check size guides when buying.

Do walking socks have cushioning?

Walking socks have different levels of cushioning. Lightweight socks, designed for warm weather, have the least cushioning. Heavyweight socks, on the other hand, tend to be more cushioned.

The ball of the foot, the heel and the Achilles are key pressure points on the foot. Cushioning in these areas, combined with light elastic compression, provides extra padding and support for long days on your feet.

What other features should I look for?

Liners: Liner socks are worn under your main walking socks. They tend to be thin, highly wicking, and as seam-free as possible.

This 2-layer system reduces friction between the foot and the boot to prevent blisters. Some socks have an integral liner built in, avoiding the need for a separate pair.

Seams: Seams can be points of friction leading to discomfort. The best walking socks are seamless or have flat seams to minimise rubbing and hot spots.

Waterproof: Most socks aren’t waterproof, but there are waterproof options available if that’s what you’re looking for. They often have a waterproof membrane, plus a wool liner for comfort and warmth.

Waterproof socks aren't normally as comfortable as regular socks, and can be quite sweaty.

Always take a spare pair

There's nothing better than peeling off manky socks from an eight-hour hike and pulling on a fresh pair once you've completed the route or reached the camping ground.

About the author

Ben Weeks has been with Trail for over 10 years and is our main point of contact for all gear reviews. As well as being a hugely talented writer and photographer, Ben is also a qualified Mountain Leader and Climbing Instructor.

When the Alpkit Viso 3 landed on my doorstep, I’ll admit I was skeptical. “How can this be labelled a backpacking tent when it weighs 3.9kg?” I wondered. However, after testing it, I realised that this misses the point.

Like many of the other three-person tents we’ve reviewed, the Viso 3 might appear somewhat of a niche offering. It’s much smaller than the best family tents, but heavier than most backpacking tents. Who should buy it, then, and why?

The answer actually isn't so niche: the Alpkit Viso 3 is excellent for campers who need more space than a two-person tent, who don't mind carrying extra weight and who don't want to fork out hundreds of pounds.

The main point is that it’s simply really good value. It's not ultralight and it might not fit the whole family, but in just about every other area of tent performance the Alpkit Viso 3 does very well, for a very decent price.

True, only the hardiest backpackers will willingly carry the Alpkit Viso 3 on their back. But it’s not crazy heavy, especially if you split the load between multiple people. And there’s room enough for two adults and a small child (or a couple of backpacking rucksacks).

So, exactly how well did it perform when I put it to the test on the edge of the Peak District? Read on to find out my verdict.

Design and features

The Alpkit Viso 3 is tunnel-shaped, formed by three parallel poles. The middle pole is longer than the end two, creating a half-cylindrical shape which tapers at both ends.

Just over half of the tent is taken up by the sleeping area, while the rest is a porch space. The porch is actually roomy enough to fit a couple of camping chairs, which is handy if the weather turns.

As with most three-person tents, it comfortably fits two people plus gear, or one adult and two little ones. Three adults would be a squeeze, though not impossible given that there’s a lot of storage space in the porch.

The interior isn’t heavily featured. There are two hooks to hang head torches on, one at the head and one at the foot of the tent. You get two small pockets next to the zipped entrance, but three people might find that there’s not enough pocket space.

Set up and pack down

I found that it’s relatively straightforward to put up. The first time, there’s some fiddling needed to adjust the guylines, and you’ll need to attach the inner to the outer. But once you’ve got this dialed in, it’s pretty quick, taking about 10 minutes.

Some tents need a lot of faffing about with poles, tent corners and guylines to not flap in the wind, but I didn’t have that problem with the Viso 3. It’s easy to properly tension-out, thanks to eight appropriately-spaced guylines.

Packing it away on my own, I quickly gave up trying to fold it (my impatience is at fault here, not the tent). Fortunately, it can be stuffed into its bag pretty easily, and you don’t need to detach the inner each time.

Weight and pack size

At 3.9kg, the Viso 3 is heavy for a backpacking tent, but about average when compared to many three-person tents. It weighs almost double that of a premium, ultralight three-person tent, but is much lighter than three-person tents designed solely for car camping.

Packed away, it's pretty bulky, but it fits into my 35L hiking rucksack easily enough (though there's not much space for anything else). I'd say it wouldn’t be complete madness to carry on your back or bike, especially if you can split it between two people.

A considerable bonus here is that you can pitch the outer on its own. It’s still a good idea to use a bivvy bag inside to protect your sleeping bag, but you’ll have a bit of extra warmth and protection, and this could help you save at least 1kg of weight.

Weatherproofing

On a windy, rainy night, chances are you’ll be grateful for the Alpkit Viso 3. The outer boasts a 8,000mm hydrostatic head rating, which means it holds up well against persistent heavy rain.

The floor material of the inner curves up to form a shallow 'bathtub' shape, which helps to stop water seeping in at ground level. And it’s good to see that the zip is well entrenched behind a layer of fabric, as this helps to stop water ingress.

As for the second element that British weather likes to hurl at unsuspecting campers, wind, the Viso 3 seems able to hold its own on a squally night. When positioned properly, the tunnel-shape sheds wind well, and there are enough guylines to properly tension it out and stop the fabric flapping around.

However, you won’t want to go anywhere near it after the sun has risen on a hot day. I tested it on a day when temperatures hit 30°C in the afternoon and it instantly became a greenhouse. While you get one small ventilation panel in the bedroom, there’s no windows, nor are the fabrics reflective of heat.

Durability

More time is needed to tell how durable it really is, and I’ll update this review if needed, but the Viso 3 looks and feels like a decent-quality tent. The outer uses 68-denier polyester with a 190-thread count, and the inner is made from the same 190T fabric. Specs aren’t everything, but these figures suggest that it’s rather robust.

Through my background research I note that a couple of people have have found the porch groundsheet is prone to rips and tears (though it doesn't seem to be a widespread issue). I haven’t yet tested it on any rocky camping spots, but it does seem quite thin. This isn’t ideal, though a rip to the porch groundsheet is far less serious than a hole in the inner.

If any part of the tent did tear, Alpkit offers a patch repair service for £25, though some brands do this for free.

Price and competition

With an RRP of £179.99 ($259.99), the Alpkit Viso 3 is one of the most affordable three person tents we’ve tested. Its closest in-house competitor, the Alpkit Jaran 3, weighs almost 1.55kg less, but costs £100 more.

In our review of the Alpkit Jaran 3, we concluded that it's good value for backpacking. But if you’re camping with a car, the Viso 3 is a better option: it has superior waterproof ratings, is made from tougher materials and costs a lot less.

Lighter three-person tents tend to be a lot more expensive. For instance, our favourite lightweight three-person tent, the Nemo Dagger OSMO 3P, has an RRP of £580. It weighs 2.1kg, which is a lot more manageable, but it’s best for serious backpackers who want to travel fast and light.

At the lower end of the three-person tent price spectrum are pop-up tents. There are many cheaper options in our list of the best pop-up tents group test, but they're designed for more casual camping as they're typically heavy and not great in poor weather.

Verdict

All in all, the Alpkit Viso 3 is an excellent value three-person tent. It’s not the lightest, but it’ll keep you and your gear protected from the elements, and in reasonable comfort, for a lot less money than most alternatives.

For car camping, you could also consider inflatable tents, as long as your boot has enough space.

About the author

Based in Sheffield, Live for the Outdoors writer Evie Nichols has hiked and camped in more than 10 countries across Europe and beyond. She's a big fan of the long-distance GR routes, her favourites being the GR20 in Corsica, GR221 in Mallorca and GR52 in the Alps.

Before we talk about the best men's running shorts, let's address a topic that may be on your mind: Running does not require specialist equipment. That's one of the best things about it. However, we do find that as we improve our performance, we want to improve the quality of our gear too.

There are some excellent men's running shorts out there, and we’ve done enough side-by-side comparison tests to decide that they are, indeed, worth the investment. Once you've got yourself some decent trail running shoes first, obviously.

Airy, lightweight shorts are an absolute blessing in the warmer months. And it takes some fairly high-quality materials and construction to get a pair that's light and durable enough to handle plenty of use.

Of course, in winter you could invest in some running leggings, but generally, you can't beat a good pair of shorts.

We know everyone has their own preference when it comes to shorts, particularly regarding length and the great pocket debate. That’s why in this guide, we’ve tested and recommended a wide range of different options so there’s something for everyone.

The best running shorts for men at a glance

Best in test: Rab Talus Active

Best ultralight running shorts: The North Face Summit Pacesetter Shorts

Best running shorts for versatility: Salomon Sense Aero

Best value running shorts: Montane Slipstream 7"

How we tested these running shorts

Any pair of running shorts will get you from A to B, but the best ones need to go further – staying comfortable, practical, and in good shape after months of use.

To make sure the models in this list were up to standard, we ran in them over a variety of distances and terrains, from short lunchtime blasts to long, hilly trail runs. We paid close attention to fit, fabric feel, breathability, and how well they prevented chafing on hot days.

Durability was a big focus. We made sure each pair could handle keys or a phone bouncing in the pocket without wearing thin, and survive repeated spins through the washing machine without seams unravelling or fabrics losing shape.

Storage was also key: we looked for pocket layouts that kept essentials secure without bounce or bulk. Testing was led by Milo Wilson, LFTO’s trail running guru, who took shorts across bridleways, forest tracks, and road sections to see how they performed in mixed conditions.

He was joined by Nick Hallissey, deputy editor of Country Walking and keen runner, who knows how to spot the difference between shorts that are merely fine and those you’ll still be reaching for after dozens of runs. The result is a list of shorts you can trust to last longer than a couple of 10k trail races.

The best men's running shorts in detail:

What to look for in men’s running shorts

Length

Length is largely a matter of personal preference. Longer shorts provide more coverage and can offer extra protection from the sun or abrasive vegetation on trail runs. Shorter shorts, on the other hand, are typically lighter, more breathable, and allow for greater freedom of movement – making them a popular choice for speed sessions and races.

Pockets

If you prefer not to run with a belt or vest, pockets become essential. Look for secure, bounce-free pockets that can comfortably hold a phone without flapping around. For long-distance training or races, extra pockets for gels, keys, and other essentials can make a big difference.

Lining

Most running shorts include a built-in liner, either in the form of a breathable mesh brief or a fitted inner short. Mesh liners offer lightweight support and excellent ventilation, while tight-fitting liners can add stability, reduce chafing, and provide additional storage. Going liner-free maximises airflow but may require separate running underwear.

Materials

Synthetic fabrics dominate the running shorts market for good reason – they’re lightweight, quick-drying, and affordable. High-performance brands may blend in merino wool for odour control and comfort. Wherever possible, choose shorts made from recycled or bluesign-approved fabrics, and if a water-repellent coating is used, look for a PFC-free DWR finish.

Running shorts FAQs

Is there a difference between men’s and women’s running shorts?

Yes, but the differences are mostly in fit and cut. Men’s shorts often have a straighter leg and slightly longer inseam, while women’s shorts are generally tailored with a narrower waist and wider hip area for comfort.

Both can feature similar performance fabrics, linings, and storage options, so it’s possible to wear whichever fits you best.

Should I choose lined or unlined running shorts?

It depends on your priorities. Lined shorts save you from wearing separate underwear, reduce the risk of chafing, and can add pockets for storage. Unlined shorts give you the flexibility to pair them with your preferred running underwear or compression shorts, which can be more breathable in hot weather.

How many pockets do I need in running shorts?

For short runs, one secure pocket for a key or card may be enough. For long runs, races, or training without a belt, multiple pockets can be invaluable – allowing you to carry your phone, nutrition, and other small essentials without discomfort.

What’s the best fabric for running shorts?

Most runners opt for lightweight, synthetic fabrics like polyester or nylon, often blended with elastane for stretch. These dry quickly, wick moisture, and resist snagging on the trail. Natural fabrics like merino wool can be excellent for comfort and odour control but tend to be heavier and more expensive.

Do I need special shorts for trail running?

Not necessarily, but trail-specific shorts often include more storage, durable fabrics, and longer cuts for extra coverage. They may also feature water-resistant panels and reinforced stitching for better performance in rugged conditions.

About the authors

Milo Wilson is the main writer and gear tester for Live For The Outdoors' running section, with a particular passion for trail running and all the kit that goes with it. From ultralight race vests to winter-ready trail shoes, Milo has spent years putting gear through its paces in the British countryside.

He favours slower, longer distances where comfort and reliability are key, but he's also been known to chase the odd PB when a bear appears.

Nick Hallissey is the deputy editor of Country Walking magazine, but in recent years has become a die-hard running convert – straying further from his hiking roots with every passing week.

Since discovering the joy of running (and the kit that makes it better), he’s tested everything from lightweight summer shorts to hardcore waterproof trail running shoes, with a growing appetite for faster, longer runs that rival his best days on the trail.

When things go wrong in wild places, some people survive, while some people don’t. What makes the difference? Survival expert John Hudson has spent a lifetime studying that very question, and here shares some techniques for the British mountains that could just save your life.

The mountains can be dangerous. You can be enjoying one of Britain's best hikes one moment and be in trouble the next.

So if you find yourself in a potentially life-threatening situation in the hills, it’s good to know that you can influence your chances of survival. Or even better, prevent yourself ending up in that situation to begin with.

"Every story of survival that doesn’t rely on blind luck can be distilled down to three simple things,” says John. “The survival triangle: Goals. Effort. Hope. In every struggle those three things keep people going, whether on a mountain, in life, or in a capture and evasion situation like those we train for in the military.

"Often in a crisis, people will behave in one of three ways. Some will know what to do, some will be stunned and a small minority will react badly. Taking a moment just to breathe is an amazing technique that can allow your brain to move out of panic mode and into a more useful frame of mind.

"It’s about accepting the circumstances – so you can work out what you can control and what you can’t. Adjusting your mindset and breaking a task down into achievable goals.

"But it’s far better to sidestep avoidable problems and prepare yourself to cope if anything does happen, and that’s all down to your planning and preparation. ‘Plan to fail’. Don’t just think how terrible it could be – make plans for specific scenarios and train your brain for what you would need to do. Risk assess it using threat versus likelihood, and equip yourself accordingly, mentally and physically."

So that’s the theory in a one-minute nutshell, but how does that relate to surviving what Britain’s mountains can throw at you?

5 common emergencies and how to survive them

1. Trip or fall

"One of the biggest risks in the mountains is an injury, and so one of the most important things I teach for survival is to get yourself first aid trained.

"A well-stocked brain is your most valuable piece of kit, and so practicing techniques means that you build muscle memory and you will more likely react appropriately should someone get injured."

Be prepared: Carry a first aid kit.

2. Hypothermia

"As an air cadet doing my Duke of Edinburgh award near Tryfan in Snowdonia at the age of around 17, we learnt a valuable lesson. It was a classic Welsh summer, liquid sunshine at 100mph.

"Our group took the difficult decision to take shelter in a disused barn, while the other team toughed it out and ended up having to be evacuated by the emergency services due to hypothermia.

"Sometimes it’s better to get out of there or call for help, rather than trying to brave it and then realise you’ve left it too late."

Be prepared: Have the right kit, have the means to call for help (take that spare battery), know the signs of hypothermia and plan what to do should things not go to plan.

3. Getting lost

"Most people find themselves ‘geographically embarrassed’ because they keep going when they should stop. Just taking a moment (so long as you’re not stuck in the South American Andes in -30°C conditions, like we once were) gives you time to come up with a measured and considered plan, such as back bearings."

Be prepared: Refresh navigation skills regularly. Let people know where you’ve gone. Have means to call for help. Have back-up batteries.

4. Crag fast

"Before you set out, think through the possible scenarios and plan what you’ll do. Know your limits and at what point you’ll backtrack. Listen to your intuition.

"Survival stories have shown that if something isn’t right, it’s usually best to stop. Don’t keep going forwards. That way you won’t get yourself onto terrain that you can’t handle."

Breathe: If you find yourself starting to panic, take a moment: breathe in for four seconds in. Hold for four (if you can). And breathe four out.

5. Exhaustion

"In the TV show Survive That, I’ve been put in scenarios where I’ve been dropped off in the middle of nowhere and experienced real exhaustion. I’ve taken inspiration from others who’ve shown the human body’s amazing limits of endurance, and also from just taking small steps to change my situation, which helps keep me going.

"But nothing so far on TV has compared to military survival training. As a pilot I was in Bavaria in winter, being chased by soldiers with dogs for days.

"It was night and I was on a woodline looking out into a clearing, listening… when I saw a neon cartoon wasp. The next thing I knew I’d face planted the floor, having fallen asleep standing up."

Train your brain: Pushing your boundaries increases resilience. John calls it ‘hardship inoculation’.

6. Dehydration

“Start out hydrated! In the UK we have a cultural tendency to be dehydrated. But even 1% dehydration can impair cognition and that’s pretty easy to do, sweating up a steep hill on a warm day.”

Have a backup: John always takes a purification tablet with him, in case water runs out or his water bottle gets a leak.

How to prepare for emergencies

Stay protected

"You’ll die from lack of air, loss of blood or the cold pretty quickly. So they are likely to be your immediate priority."

Find a safe location

"Are you in a safe place, or a place you can be found?"

Acquiring water and food

"You can survive without these for days, so they’re next on the list. Finally, to survive you will need to navigate and work out where you are and where you need to go."

Always carry back-ups

"For all vital bits of kit, have a contingency. On the hill, you need to think about back-ups for navigation (map and compass, GPS, phone, magnetic needle) and calling for help (phone, backup battery, sign up for the Emergency Text Message service, leave a route plan and an ETA with someone)."

Rehearse your reaction

"In an emergency you’re more likely to react appropriately if you’ve already rehearsed the actions. It’s called muscle memory – it helps actions such as navigation and first aid come naturally under pressure."

Know the stars

"Unlike other stars that rotate around the night sky, the North Star (or Polaris) always points towards the north pole.

"To locate the North Star, first find the Plough (aka Big Dipper) constellation. Find the two pointer stars on the far side of the ‘pan’ opposite its handle. By following these stars 5x the distance of the two stars, you will find the North Star, which is the brightest in the constellation."

Here's some more info on how to navigate by the stars.

About the authors

Jenna Maryniak was Trail magazine's deputy editor between 2016 and 2024. She's an experienced and passionate hillwalker who loves nothing more than bagging fells in the Lake District. She's also recently taken the plunge into scrambling and beginner climbing, and is our go-to expert on walking and camping in the hills with her dog Jerry.

With over 20 years studying survival, John Hudson is a survival, evasion, resistance and extraction chief instructor for the military and the author of How to Survive with a new ‘How to Survive a Pandemic’ chapter.

Camping cutlery is one of those little accessories that's all too easy to overlook when you're planning your next overnight trip or backpacking adventure.

Oh, you'll remember the backpacking stove, mess tins, pots and pans. You might even have a camping chair sorted. But the actual implements of eating are often forgotten – and there's just something so undignified about eating a plate of beans with a house key or tent peg.

So, to save you from this shameful fate, our testers have found the created this collection of the best camping cutlery, which we reckon you'll end up packing first out of sheer excitement to use it.

There's a mind-bending array of camping cutlery available out there, from the humble spork to proper five-piece travel sets. All have their pros and cons and are best suited to different scenarios. That's why it's important to match the right camping cutlery to the right outdoor excursion.

With a sea of options out there, we've made things simple for you below by assembling our favourite cutlery options available for your next camping trip. Tuck in!

Best camping cutlery at a glance

Best in test: GSI Halulite 3pc Ring Cutlery

Best budget buy: Lifeventure Ellipse Camping Cutlery

Best family cutlery set: Easy Camp Family Cutlery

Best ultralight camping cutlery: Sea to Summit Frontier Ultralight Cutlery Set

How we tested the best camping cutlery

This article was compiled by Rob Slade and Fliss Freeborn. Rob is deputy editor of Live for the Outdoors (LFTO) and has been sleeping under canvas for decades. He's been testing camping and hiking kit professionally for over 10 years. Fliss is a writer for LFTO and lifelong devotee of camping cutlery. She once ate a full roast dinner with a spork to prove that you can (you can – but it's difficult).

The products featured below have all been tested extensively on multiple camping trips – from laid back car camping to multi-day hiking. Our rating criteria included weight (we weighed each product ourselves), comfort, performance and value.

Comfort was assessed on both holding the handles of the cutlery and cutting away, as well as how it felt to actually stick the cutlery into your mouth and take food off it.

Performance covered how easy it was to stick the cutlery into food and cut/scoop it up, as well as how robust each product felt. To help us establish this rating, we did a semi-controlled cutting test with the edge of a four-day-old loaf of sourdough bread. This crust has been known to break teeth, so we knew it'd be a good test for the knives featured here.

You can find out more about how we test here.

Best camping cutlery reviewed:

How to choose the best camping cutlery for you

It may seem like a trivial decision, but choosing the right camping cutlery for the job is of great importance. There's nothing worse than having to use something that annoys you, even if it's only for 15 minutes a day.

You'll also need to decide whether you're after something minimalist and lightweight, or fully comprehensive setup for longer trips, where sawing at a hunk of protein with a plastic spork will get very dull, very quickly.

This decision is very much going to depend on what sort of camping you'll be doing. If it's family camping, you'll probably want a big cutlery set that caters for everyone and comes with a handy storage bag.

If you're car camping on your own or as a couple, you won't need such a big collection, so individual sets can work well. Because you're not carrying your kit everywhere, it means weight is less of a concern.

However, if you're backpacking and carrying kit on your back for days on end, then you need something particularly lightweight. Speaking of which...

Size and weight

Apart from no cutlery at all, the spork is the best lightweight option. It's the bivvy bag of cutlery.

That said, modern materials and manufacturing now mean that you can get sets of a knife, fork and spoon without much of a weight penalty, but you'll want to make sure durability isn't sacrificed in the process.

Every gram counts for backpacking, but we recon anything under 50g is decent.

At the other end of the spectrum, a multi-piece set is comprehensive but bulky - and if you're car camping, then just taking a set from home that you don't mind much about and storing it in the glovebox can also to do the trick.

We also love the fact that camping cutlery can be used out and about just about anywhere – a folding or magnetic set does wonders for work lunches without having to use and throw away any single-use plastics or energy-intensive wooden forks.

Material

Plastic: Plastic cutlery tends to be the cheapest option, while it can also be lightweight, but isn't exactly the nicest to eat from. The knives made aren't usually great to use over longer periods of time and plastic cutlery can also be prone to snapping. If you go down this route, ensure its BPA-free and, ideally, made from recycled materials.

Stainless steel: Durable and rust-resistant, stainless steel feels sturdy in the hand and is a practical choice for car camping. It’s great for those who like ‘real’ cutlery, but they tend to be heavier, so aren’t usually the top pick for ultralight backpacking.

Titanium: Cutlery made from titanium is ultralight, incredibly strong and naturally rustproof. While more expensive, it will last for years and adds barely any weight to your pack.

Aluminium: This option is lighter than steel and more affordable than titanium, so it’s a good midway point, but it’s softer and can bend if put under too much force.

Wood/bamboo: Eco-friendly and natural-feeling, wooden or bamboo cutlery is gaining traction. It’s biodegradable and lighter than steel, but usually bulkier. If you're choosing things made of bamboo or other wood, be sure to treat them carefully, keeping them clean and dry so they don't rot.

What are you eating?

For those eating straight from the food pouch, a spork or spoon will see you right - no fuss needed. If you're fed up of getting messy hands when digging around for the last bits of food, though, then an extended or extendable spoon is a good shout.

On the other hand, if you're whipping up something a little more sophisticated, you'll benefit from a set. You'll already be bringing a stove and some cookware, so it'd be silly not to have the right cutlery, too.

If you're backpacking, chances are the food isn't going to be that challenging to cut or stab with a fork. We're talking pasta, rice, cous cous, noodles etc. This means the sharpness of your implements don't matter so much.

But if you do plan to take something tougher, such as chorizo, or you're going to be cutting other meat around camp, you'll want your knife to pack a punch.

Ease of use, comfort and cleaning

As much as weight is important when choosing the best camping cutlery for your trips, comfort, ease of use and cleaning are arguably even more important.

Some brands will try to trim weight to the detriment of comfort, so you want to make sure you're not left with any overly pointy edges on the handles that might cause pressure points to form while you're using the cutlery.

Comfort also extends to in the mouth. A good meal can be ruined by awkward or annoying cutlery, so the shape needs to lend itself well to what you're eating. The closer it feels to normal cutlery, the better in our experience.

When it comes to ease of use, consider how much food you can get (and keep) on your spoon/fork when using it. Are the edges curved enough to avoid food spilling off? Is the fork good at stabbing pasta?

And now to one of the worst aspects of camping... clearing up. We all hate washing up when camping, so the easier this is to do, the better. Bonus points also if you can chuck it in the dishwasher when you get home.

About the authors

Rob Slade is deputy editor at LFTO and has a long history of camping, hiking and reviewing gear. He previously worked as content editor at 220 Triathlon and, before that, editor at Adventure Travel magazine (which is now called Wired For Adventure). He's camped all over the world, including New Zealand, Jordan and across the UK.

Fliss Freeborn is a writer and gear tester for LFTO. During her time at university, she spent considerably more days in a tent in the Scottish Highlands than she did in the library, which she highly recommends as a study strategy. She also believes that life is too short to eat bad food outdoors and that cooking good scran while in the hills is easier than you might think with the right kit and some forward planning.

Did you know that you can actually waste energy when you’re running from squinting against the sun’s rays? The best running sunglasses will not only make running in bright conditions more comfortable, but also make you a more efficient runner.

When it comes to running sunglasses, it's all about the lens. To pick the right sunnies for you, consider firstly two things. One, what conditions are you likely to be wearing them in?

For instance, do you run purely on trail, in overcast conditions, in forests, or maybe along exposed paths by the beach? These different conditions will elicit different lens types for optimal running vision and eye protection.

If your route has bright light conditions, you'll need a lens with minimal light transmission. If it's also a route that has plenty of reflective surfaces such as large stretches of water, metal, snow, or tarmac, then a polarised lens will reduce the harshness of this glare.

While if you're partial to some technical trails, then a brighter hue like a rose tint will increase the contrast and make smaller details easier to spot.

The last key thing to consider is the kind of style and fit you're after. Of course, a good pair of running sunglasses should feel light and immovable on your face, which is normally achieved through grippy coatings or sleeves on the frame and a minimalist build.

However, sunglasses shape and profile largely comes down to personal preference. Consider if you like a smaller lens that doesn't ellipse your whole face, or if the wrap-around pro style suits you better and you prefer that bit more coverage that comes with it. Do like a frame-free lens silhouette, or prefer the structure provided by a full frame? Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Best running sunglasses at a glance

Best in Test: SunGod Forty2s

Best Value: Tifosi Swick

Best lens coverage: Koo Nova

Best for multi-purpose use: Vallon Ventures

How we tested these running sunglasses

Our main tester for this year’s best running sunglasses is Kate Milsom – one of LFTO’s most experienced contributors, former running editor, and current resident of the sun-soaked French coast.

With near-constant bright conditions and a calendar full of technical trail runs, Kate demands top-quality, polarised sunglasses that perform as well as they look.

She’s joined by Milo Wilson, LFTO’s resident running guru, who favours sunglasses that are casual and versatile enough to wear anywhere, yet still built with solid, trail-ready construction.

Completing the team is Rob Slade, our deputy editor and a seasoned triathlete, who puts high-performance, wraparound styles through their paces on both runs and rides.

Between us, we’ve worn and tested each pair across a range of conditions – from blazing sunshine to cloudy coastal mornings – and in varied environments, including technical trails, road runs, and urban commutes (if you're Milo, the only city-dweller on the team).

We assess comfort over several weeks of long runs, paying close attention to how secure each pair feels at speed and over rough terrain. We also test durability in real-world conditions – and yes, every pair gets dropped at least once to see how they cope.

Finally, we compare lens performance and coverage side-by-side, looking at clarity, polarisation quality, and how well each model balances sun protection with visibility in shaded sections.

Best running sunglasses in detail

What to look for when buying running sunglasses

Road vs trail running needs

The type of running you do should influence your choice of sunglasses. Road runners often prefer lightweight, streamlined designs that feel barely there and won’t bounce at higher speeds.

Trail runners, on the other hand, might benefit from wraparound lenses for extra coverage against dust, wind, and low-hanging branches, as well as frames that stay put over uneven terrain. If you regularly mix road and trail, look for a versatile design that balances speed-friendly aerodynamics with off-road protection.

Face shape and fit

A good fit is essential for both comfort and performance. Sunglasses that are too loose can slip during a run, while overly tight frames can create pressure points. Consider your face shape; wider frames suit broader faces, while narrower designs fit smaller profiles better.

Adjustable nose pads or interchangeable nose bridges can help fine-tune the fit, but some one-size-fits-all designs use grippy frame coatings to achieve the same stability.

Polarisation

Polarised lenses are particularly useful in bright conditions with lots of reflected glare, such as coastal paths, lakesides, or sun-baked roads.

They cut down on harsh reflections, reduce eye strain, and improve contrast. However, they can make it harder to see certain digital screens (like GPS watches), so weigh up where and how you run before deciding.

Lens material

Most running sunglasses use lightweight polycarbonate or polyurethane lenses, which are impact-resistant and offer good clarity.

Premium models may use nylon lenses, which can deliver even better optical clarity. Look for additional coatings like anti-fog, anti-scratch, and hydrophobic treatments to keep vision clear in changing conditions.

Budget

Running sunglasses range from budget-friendly options around £30 to premium models costing £200 or more. Higher prices often buy you lighter weight, better optical clarity, and improved durability, but there are excellent mid-range options that offer great performance for less.

Prescription needs

If you wear glasses day-to-day, you’ll need to consider prescription options. Some running sunglasses are available with prescription lenses, while others can accommodate clip-in inserts. Check the brand’s offerings before you buy.

Ventilation

Good ventilation helps prevent fogging during high-intensity efforts or in humid weather. Look for features like lens cut-outs, vented nose bridges, or semi-frameless designs that allow air to circulate without compromising coverage.

FAQs:

How do I clean my sunglasses properly?

To keep your running sunglasses performing at their best, clean them regularly with a microfibre cloth and lens-safe cleaning solution.

Avoid using household cleaners, paper towels, or your shirt hem – these can scratch or degrade the lens coating. If your sunglasses are particularly dirty after a muddy trail run, rinse them first with lukewarm water to remove grit before wiping.

Always store them in a soft pouch or hard case to prevent accidental damage between runs.

Should I use polarised sunglasses for running?

Polarised sunglasses are a great choice for many runners, especially if you spend a lot of time on bright, sunny days where glare is a problem – such as running beside water, on wet roads, or in snow.

Polarisation cuts glare and improves contrast, making it easier to spot obstacles. However, in shaded woodland or low-light conditions, polarised lenses can sometimes make it harder to see into dark areas.

Many runners choose to have one polarised pair for summer and another non-polarised or photochromic pair for overcast days.

Are expensive running sunglasses worth it?

That depends on your priorities and how often you run. High-end running sunglasses tend to offer better optical clarity, superior lens coatings (for scratch resistance, anti-fogging, and UV protection), and lightweight, more durable frames.

They’re often more comfortable for long runs and come with replaceable parts for extended lifespan. If you run daily or in challenging conditions, the investment can pay off in performance and durability. For occasional runners, a more affordable pair with good UV protection might be all you need.

What’s the difference between UVA, UVB and UVC rays?

There are three main types of UV radiation. Ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation has the longest wavelength with the lower amount of energy of the three types, so manages to penetrate the earth's atmosphere and through the skin's dermis. Approximately 95% of the UV radiation that reaches Earth is UVA rays.

Some Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays also get through, though not as much since the wavelength is shorter. Then there are Ultraviolet C (UVC) rays, which are the most harmful, but don't penetrate the earth's atmosphere.

The highest UV protection rating available for sunglasses is UV400, which block 99-100% of the sun's rays.

What colour lenses are best for trail running?

The colour of your sunglass lens isn't simply for style purposes. A darker lens may feel gentler on the eyes in really bright lights, but could lack clarity when the sun goes in and it gets darker. Whereas, rose-tinted lenses can increase contrast, bringing clarity to those more technical sections on the trail.

Are photochromic lenses good for running?

Photochromic lenses are light-adaptive, meaning they're translucent in dark light conditions, and turn a darker tint when the lighting gets brighter. They're useful for people who don't want to swap between glasses, especially if lighting conditions are constantly changing. You can even get prescription photochromic lenses.

In theory, a photochromic lens for running sounds great, and it will work well for some. But some lenses tend to not get completely dark in bright conditions, and even then, the running conditions may well call for a brighter lens for high contrast.

You can't control when the lens transitions. It can take up to a minute for the lens to transition and this is slowed down by the cold. They can also be more costly than your standard sunnies.

About the authors

Kate Milsom is a former Digital Content Writer for Live For The Outdoors and remains one of our most active contributors. She specialises in running journalism and run gear testing and has a background in triathlon and cycling.

Rob Slade is LFTO's deputy editor and also a seasoned multi-sporty. Rob's favourite running sunglasses have large, wrap-around style lenses as he often uses them for serious cycles as well, and he cannot afford to sacrifice a square millimetre of coverage.

Milo Wilson is an utter nuisance, but we can't deny his expertise when it comes to trail running accessories. As a gadget lover, Milo runs the annual gear of the year awards and tests up to a dozen pairs of sunnies just to pick the one winner.

The best sleeping bag liners are precious middle layers, like pickle in a cheddar sandwich. Sitting between the human and the sleeping bag, or the bread and the cheese, neither would be the same without them – yet they're under-appreciated.

You might be undecided on whether a sleeping bag liner (not to be confused with a bin bag liner) is actually useful. Your sleeping bag is already warm enough, so why would you need to fork out another £50+ on more camping kit you don’t really need?

This is a totally valid question, which we’ve asked ourselves before, too. But after years of camping experience, we’d never go on a trip without one – and here’s why.

Selfishly, your sleeping bag needs a liner. Liners are an elixir of youth for your sleeping bag, shielding it against everything that harms it (namely: your dirt and sweat). You wouldn’t sleep directly under your duvet without a bedsheet, right?

But sleeping bag liners are generous with who they benefit. They don’t just protect what’s on the outside, they also help the human inside to sleep better.

If your sleeping bag isn’t very warm, a fleece liner like the Rab Thermic Neutrino will give you a much-needed warmth boost.

Lighter silk liners, like the Lifeventure Ultimate Silk, help you to regulate your temperature and make your sleeping bag more comfortable.

Plus, the same liner can be equally useful in both the Mediterranean or the Arctic. It can be used to protect a sleeping bag that’s already warm enough, or can be slept in on its own – if the temperature allows.

If you’re not already convinced, on top of all of this they’re also super handy for mountain refuges and hostels (as well as camping, of course). And they’re much less hassle to wash than a sleeping bag.

In short: they’re worth it. But if your sleeping bag liner isn’t well-suited to your needs, it won’t be much use – and could even be a waste of money.

So how do you find the best sleeping bag liner? When every brand states that their liner adds about three degrees of warmth and is made of cutting-edge ‘PolyThermoLite’ fabric, it’s difficult to know where to start.

To help you choose the right liner for your needs, we’ve spent months testing the best sleeping bag liners for 2025. We’ve also compiled our many years of camping experience to put together a buying guide, helping you to make the most informed choice possible.

Best sleeping bag liners at a glance

Best sleeping bag liner overall: Sea to Summit Reactor

Best sleeping bag liner for warmth: Rab Thermic Neutrino

Best lightweight sleeping bag liner: Lifeventure Ultimate Silk

How we tested the best sleeping bag liners

The LFTO team is made up of outdoor gear experts with years of experience using sleeping bag liners. We carefully curated this selection of liners to ensure there's something for serious winter campers as well as happy-go-lucky summer backpackers.

The reviews in this list have been written by LFTO digital writer Evie Nichols, with each one informed by thorough, real-life tests performed over several months at the start of 2025.

Evie tested these liners in her The North Face Kilo Bag, a mummy-shaped down sleeping bag that's rated to 0°C. To judge how comfortable each liner is, she carefully assessed their size, shape and texture, as well as ease of use and perceived added warmth.

To verify each of the liners’ measurements, Evie measured their weight with her own scales (with the pack included) and used a tape measure for the pack size.

We reached a conclusion on the overall performance of each of these sleeping bag liners through carefully assigning a score based on five criteria: comfort, weight, pack size, features and value.

Want to know more about how we get products in for review? Read how we test here.

Best sleeping bag liners reviewed:

What to look for in a sleeping bag liner?

Size and shape

There are two main shapes of sleeping bag liner: mummy and rectangle. Mummy liners are wider at the shoulders and hips than at the ankles. Rectangular liners are, as the name suggests, a standard rectangle shape.

Mummy liners are best if you have a mummy-shaped sleeping bag. As they fit more closely around your body, they’re more snug. They also tend to be made of stretchy material, to compensate for the tighter fit. This shape tends to be slightly lighter, as there’s less fabric.

Rectangular liners, on the other hand, have more wiggle room. But this won’t be particularly useful if you have a mummy-shaped sleeping bag. So again, it depends on your type of sleeping bag. It’s best to use a rectangular liner on its own or with a rectangular sleeping bag.

Material

The most common types of sleeping bag liner material are: silk, cotton and polyester.

Silk

Silk liners are the most lightweight and compact of all liner types. They also tend to be the most expensive. For some people silk is the most comfortable material, as it’s very soft and smooth against your skin.

A silk liner is very versatile: it could be equally useful during a Mediterranean summer camping trip or a winter alpine expedition.

In the heat, you might find that your sleeping bag is too hot, but you don’t want to just sleep with nothing over you. Here, a silk liner comes to life. It’s comfortable to sleep in and will help you thermoregulate by wicking sweat.

On a cold night, you won't want to depend on a silk liner as it won’t add much warmth at all. But it’ll wick moisture away from your sleeping bag and protect it against dirt. This prolongs the life of your sleeping bag.

You’ll feel the benefit during the night as well, as it’ll help you to thermoregulate. But make sure your sleeping bag is warm enough on its own.

Cotton

If you like to feel like you’re stepping into bed when you get into your sleeping bag, you’ll prefer cotton and polycotton liners. Cotton liners are super easy to wash and maintain, plus they tend to be very durable. They’re also generally more budget-friendly than silk or synthetic options.

We wouldn’t recommend taking a cotton liner on backpacking trips though, as they tend to be heavier and bulkier. They also take a long time to dry.

A cotton liner sits somewhere between a silk liner and a fleece-lined liner in terms of warmth. If in doubt, consider whether you’d be warm enough taking your bedsheet with you, as a cotton liner feels basically the same.

Overall, a cotton liner is a good choice for staying in hostels or mountain refuges, especially if you don’t like the feeling of silk or synthetic fibres. But it won’t save you any space or weight on a hiking trip.

Polyester

You might think liners which are 100% polyester all feel the same, but they can actually feel quite different.

The Rab Thermic Neutrino, for example, feels like a fleece. But the Sea to Summit Reactor and Therm-a-Rest Synergy liners, which are also made fully from polyester, feel more like a base layer.

Fleece-like liners are much warmer and they’re also less able to wick sweat, but may pick up less odour. A fleece liner is best if your sleeping bag needs a significant boost in warmth.

If you don’t need a massive warmth boost, but would still like a little extra (plus all of the other benefits of a liner), then a base layer-style liner would be best. These are a lot more stretchy than cotton or silk liners, so they’re comfortable to sit up in. You can even walk around in the Sea to Summit Reactor liner.

In general, polyester might not feel as comfortable as silk or cotton when it’s hot, but polyester liners tend to dry faster – especially thinner ones. They’re also more durable than a silk liner, which can tear more easily.

Overall, a polyester liner is a good choice for backpacking trips where you need a little extra warmth than a silk liner.

Are sleeping bag liners a good idea?

In almost all cases, sleeping bag liners are an excellent idea – no matter what kind of trip you’re going on.

On a basic level, a sleeping bag without a liner is a bit like a duvet without any bedsheets. Liners protect your sleeping bag from moisture and dirt, helping it to live longer. Unless you’re going ultralight and aren’t too fussed about the lifespan of your sleeping bag, it’s best to bring along a liner.

Having said that, it’s a bad idea to depend solely on a liner to keep you warm on a cold night. If you’re camping during winter, it might be best to buy a warm sleeping bag rather than adding a warm liner to your not-so-warm sleeping bag.

Even in this case though, you’d still be grateful for a lightweight silk liner to protect your sleeping bag.

Beyond its benefit to your sleeping bag, a liner will help you to feel snug when you’re camping, if you choose the right one. As an experienced camper, I would never go camping without my silk liner – my sleeping bag wouldn’t be the same without it.

How much warmer does a liner make your sleeping bag?

The amount of warmth a liner adds to your sleeping bag depends on both the liner and your sleeping bag.

A fleece liner, like the Rab Thermic Neutrino, will add the most warmth to your sleeping bag. It’s like sleeping wrapped up in a lightweight fleece.

On the other hand, synthetic liners like the Therm-a-Rest Synergy and Sea to Summit Reactor are like being covered in a base layer.

Sea to Summit claims that its liner will “increase 3-season sleeping bag's temperature rating by up to 6%”, while Therm-a-Rest says it’ll “contribute 3C of warmth to your sleeping system”.

Although you should take these claims with a pinch of salt, we do find synthetic liners to be pretty effective at keeping you warm.

Silk liners won’t make your sleeping bag much warmer, but they’ll add to its overall comfort and longevity.

However, in all of this discussion, the amount of warmth a liner adds also depends on your sleeping bag itself. The warmer your sleeping bag, the less you’ll notice its effect.

This is because most sleeping bags are far more insulating than any liner. So, the warmer your sleeping bag is, the smaller the insulation boost your liner provides relative to it.

For more advice, read our article on how to pack for ultralight backpacking.

About the author

Digital writer Evie Nichols loves nothing more than wild camping in high and remote places. Her trusted silk liner has accompanied her on pretty much every camping trip she's ever been on, from the Cambodian jungle to the Atlas mountains.

Mount Kilimanjaro has a problem: acclimatisation. The old adage to avoid acute mountain sickness is that you should climb high, then sleep low. That’s not an issue in a peak-packed mountain range where you can climb to a pass, drop to a camp to sleep, then climb again the next day.

But Kilimanjaro is the highest freestanding mountain in the world (and arguably one of the world's best hikes), with the climb starting at its base and finishing at its summit. Some routes take a circuitous approach, climbing, traversing, dropping slightly, and climbing once more on the journey to the summit. The more days this is spread over, the higher the chances of success.

Kilimanjaro has another problem: popularity. The world, its neighbour and their favourite talent show pop group have climbed Kilimanjaro. There’s nothing wrong with that – it’s a magnificent challenge and fair play to all who take it on via one of its more straightforward approaches.

But if you’re serious about your mountains, then you’ll probably crave the most ambitious route to its summit. Enter the Western Breach. A lavaformed gap in the crater rim of Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s main cone, it's regarded as the most challenging route to the top that doesn’t require ropes.

Only a handful of guiding companies offer it and Sheffield-based Jagged Globe is one of them, with an itinerary that also provides an acclimatisation ascent of nearby Mount Meru.

With visas stamped, inoculations jabbed and a bulging duffel bag, I set out for the roof of Africa on a trip of a lifetime to Tanzania…

Day 1: Arrival in Africa

I can just make out the shadow of Kilimanjaro in the night as we’re driven in a safari-style 4x4 to our hotel. The journey to Moshi is an opportunity to get to know the group. Barry and Steve are retired tax inspectors (a career with an unlikely pedigree in mountaineering). Barry has climbed all over the world, while this is Steve’s first big mountain trip.

Magda is a Polish marathon-runner from Carlisle who's brimming with enthusiasm. Team leader Andy Chapman has been above 5,000m over 100 times, including Everest (which has its fair share of challenges for climbers), so we’re in good hands.

At the hotel he briefs us on what to expect tomorrow when we head to Mount Meru for the first leg of our African adventure.

Day 2: Wildlife safari

The drive to the start of the trek is an adventure in itself. Baboons move lazily among the trees, zebras graze on the plains and warthogs linger near the water’s edge.

Once on foot we’re accompanied by a ranger – a serious man dressed in military green and carrying an equally serious-looking rifle. I point at his gun. “That looks like it could stop a buffalo! What’s it for?” “Stopping buffalo,” he replies. Shot one apparently goes in the air to scare them off. If that fails, shot two is more direct.

We spot a giraffe’s neck sticking above the scrub, then more. About a dozen in total. Trekking higher the guides point out birds, berries, footprints and leopard dung. It takes four hours through the forest with glimpses of colobus and blue monkeys to reach Miriakamba Hut, a collection of low buildings with squat-and-drop toilets, and our overnight base at 2,514m.

Someone calls out. “I can see Kilimanjaro!” All I see is cloud. Then I realise my mistake. I’m looking too low. The summit is poking out above the cloud. Christ, it’s huge.

Day 3: Mission to Meru

The trees give way to giant heather as we climb. Huge ravens soar overhead and our ranger points out a column of fire ants, explaining that their bite is painful and that they can swarm up the leg of your walking trousers with frightening speed.

We arrive at the 3,566m Saddle Hut around midday, snack quickly and set off on a dusty climb to the subsidiary top of Little Meru as a leg and lung stretcher. From the 3,820m summit the views of Big Meru are exceptional, the parent peak looking every bit the dormant volcano it is. But Kilimanjaro is hiding.

Day 4: Magical views

It’s midnight. I’ve had less than two hours sleep, but I’m fuelled by excitement. We gobble down porridge and head out into the moonlit night with local guides Clemence and Habat, and porter-cum-guide Daima.

Our first objective is Rhino Point at 3,800m, a small horn of mountain completely devoid of rhinos. A slight chain-aided descent is tackled before we climb again. Barry hasn’t been sleeping well – a result of his antimalarial medication – and opts to turn back.

The track becomes fine volcanic ash, sliding down with every footstep. Steve too is struggling and Daima takes his rucksack. Sunrise is a way off and the temperature drops as we climb. Below, the lights of Arusha sparkle in the blackness, mirroring the stars.

"Pole pole" (slowly slowly) is a phrase frequently repeated by the guides. It’s the only way to climb big mountains. I begin to notice the effects of altitude around 4,200m. Slight nausea, a hint of a headache. I take long deep breaths, exhaling rapidly after each. My balance is off and the terrain is hard. I ask Magda if she’s feeling any effects from the altitude. She says no. I swear at her.

It’s 6am as we gather around Meru’s rustic summit marker for hugs and photos. Then something happens. It begins as a line of brightness across the eastern horizon, growing, becoming richer in hue, filling the sky behind a mountain-shaped silhouette – Kilimanjaro.

The crescendo of colour builds until, in a spectacular eruption, the sun crests the horizon; not above Kilimanjaro, but at its feet. It’s not a view so much as an awakening. Once again I’m staggered by just how big that mountain is.

The returning daylight reveals all the details of Meru that were hidden by the night. Our route curves around the crater rim, in the middle of which stands a huge ash cone. The soft substrate that had sapped energy in ascent is a joy to plunge down, and it takes little over three hours to reach Saddle Hut. It’s 9.30am. The rest of the camp are just getting up.

Day 5: Wild water

A return down our ascent route takes us back through the forest until we’re led away from the main track on an unexpected detour. We pass through trees on a hillside with giraffes and zebras on the plains below to emerge in a steep-sided ravine with a spectacular waterfall at its head. I’m hot, dusty, and quickly into the water.

The torrent is fresh, cold and much stronger than it looks. The African sun dries my clothes by the time we’re back at the gate. There's more paperwork to be completed before we depart for the hotel. Kilimanjaro starts tomorrow.

Day 6: Forest in the sky

We bounce along a dusty road lined with low buildings and waving children to Umbwe Gate. As we wait to enter the national park (the Tanzanians love paperwork) the team of porters arrive.

As well as the bulk of our overnight gear they’ll also be carrying the tents plus all the food and kitchen equipment. They’re absolute legends, always greeting us with a cheery "jambo". Daima leads the way. On his back is his rucksack. On his head is 20kg of camp gear.

The canopy of the jungle offers shade, but it’s humid. The forest thickens as we climb, twisted trees dripping with moss of every shade of green. It soon becomes clear we’re ascending a forested ridge flanked by river-bottomed valleys.

An ascent almost equivalent to that of Ben Nevis eventually brings us to the Umbwe Cave Camp – a series of forest clearings terraced over different levels. Despite being nearly 3,000m up there’s no sense of being on a mountain.

The porters are already constructing our camp: three two-person tents, a mess tent for dining, a kitchen tent and a yellow phone-box shaped tent Barry christens ‘Big Potty’. No prizes for guessing what’s in there.

Day 7: Glorious views

The vegetation changes soon after leaving camp, with dense forest replaced by giant heather draped in moss. Here we get our first clear views of Kilimanjaro since stepping foot on it.

Andy points out the Breach Wall (through which our passage to the summit will thread), the Messner icicles (spindly looking fingers of ice which Reinhold Messner once climbed) and the Southern Icefield including the Decken Glacier, Kirsten Glacier and the Heim Glacier (which is almost gone).

At a busy Barranco Camp later that evening, as dusk settles, a pea-soup mist sweeps in and we retreat to the mess tent for food and conversation.

A little later a voice calls from beyond the canvas: “It’s clearing!” I rush outside. The mountain towers into the starry sky, with the high white glaciers matching the pale streak of the Milky Way above. It is glorious.

Day 8: Rest day

Singing drifts across the camp; porters serenading the departing masses trekking up the Barranco Wall. For us today is a rest day, but we need to get our hearts going to aid acclimatisation. We opt for an easy ascent to a radio tower some 200m above Barranco, the short trek breaking the 4,000m contour and giving us views back to Mount Meru.

Coming down we pass a levelled area with a large ‘H’ marked out with rocks. Guides mill about, with one speaking intensely into a phone. A pale walker sits on a rock with his pack at his feet. We arrive back at camp as a helicopter flies in to evacuate the man who was suffering from the effects of altitude and hypothermia. This is a serious mountain.

Day 9: High camp

Barranco Camp is the dustiest place I’ve ever been, but as we climb the dirt begins to give way to rock, the vegetation all but disappears and the temperature plummets. I start to feel a little lightheaded at 4,425m – exactly half the height of Everest. We pass a lone leather boot among the rocks and as we ascend into thicker clag, fine snow begins to fall.

Arrow Glacier Camp feels like a proper high mountain camp, surrounded by strange shaped volcanic outcrops. The dusting of snow continues for much of the afternoon. We gather in the mess tent for a final briefing. We’ll be making a midnight departure and carrying ice axes, but the Western Breach is on.

Day 10: Summit push

It’s a cold, sleepless night. By 12am we’re up, dressed and trying to eat. Barry has never quite recovered from his illness and has made the difficult decision not to summit. We hug our farewells and head out into the dark with head torches strapped to our helmets.

In 2006 three people were killed by rockfall in the Western Breach. In 2015 another trekker was killed by a falling boulder. We pass a wooden painted post exclaiming "ROCK-FALL CORRIDOR, KEEP MOVING". No arguments here.

The going is deliberately slow. "Pole pole". It’s pitch black beyond the torchlight and bitingly cold. My nose numbs as I gasp in thin air. The going becomes more akin to scrambling. It’s no worse than anything on Tryfan in Snowdonia – but we’re at 5,400m, climbing by torchlight, and I’m wearing thick mitts.

A series of rock steps provides the greatest challenge. I’m breathing hard by the top of them. Up ahead, above the mountain, the sky is brightening. We break onto the crater rim as the sun hits it, returning warmth and colour to the world.

Climbers on the Western Breach used to cross glaciers to the summit. Andy did so back in 1989. It was the daily warming of the Arrow Glacier that released rocks down the Western Breach. That glacier no longer exists.

While still present, the Furtwängler Glacier is a mere fragment of what it once was a few decades ago, and although the vast whiteness of the Northern Icefields looks impenetrable, even their future is uncertain.

I dig deep for the last ascent up to the summit ridge. My tank is empty but an energy gel is all I can stomach. I’m exhausted and heavy legged, but it’s almost done.

In the distance, a small rise in the ground topped by a familiar wooden sign marks Uhuru Peak and the 5,895m summit of Kilimanjaro. I take in the surroundings, the sweep of the southern glaciers, the vast crater and what feels like all of Africa laid out below.

I’m light-headed again, but I don’t know if it’s altitude or emotion. The summit is busy. Everyone hugs. Magda does burpees. We gather our breath and thoughts, suck up the air and the view, and start our descent, heel-plunging through the loose stones of a dusty scree slope.

Overlooked by Kilimanjaro’s eastern cone, Mawenzi, we pass through Barafu Camp (where many summiteers begin their day) and head onwards to Millennium Camp. In the past 10.5 hours we’ve climbed over 1,000m, descended nearly 2,000m, and stood on the roof of a continent. We find a patch of grass beneath a tree, lay on our packs, and sleep. It’s 11.30am.

Day 11: Reflections

Somewhere on the descent to Miweka Gate, through a gap in the forest canopy, I get my last view of Kilimanjaro. I know at the gate there will be more form filling. Later tonight I’ll be on a plane bound for the UK. I don’t want to think about that. I’m still in a mountain headspace.

Instead I think about Mount Meru, about giraffes, about the ranger with his gun, about the sunrise, about the porters and guides, about my teammates, my friends. I think about the harshness of the mountain nights and the warmth of the mess-tent mealtimes.

And I think about standing on the summit of Africa. I realise that this feeling will never go completely, it’ll always be with me. I’d heard Africa gets you like that. It’s true. Hurry boy, it’s waiting there for you…

About the author

Ben Weeks has been with LFTO's sister title, Trail magazine, for over 10 years and is our main point of contact for all gear reviews. As well as being a hugely talented writer and photographer, Ben is also a qualified mountain leader and climbing instructor.

Travel backpacks, designed specifically for lugging your gear to and from planes, trains, buses and cars, come in all shapes and sizes. Surprisingly, they can be trickier for brands to get right than hiking packs, which simply need to balance weight, durability and comfort.

That's because the best travel backpacks have some additional parameters to hit before they can be classed as effective.

Before we get into that, if you're planning on carrying large loads on your back for long periods (including a lot of hiking), you may be better off with a larger backpacking rucksack. These often come with a comfortable, more sophisticated back system. You can then supplement this with a smaller bag for your valuables.

However, if you're heading off on a shorter trip (and don't want to lug a suitcase around), such as a city break or long weekend, a dedicated travel backpack is a good idea. Unlike a suitcase, they allow you to organise your belongings, are easier to walk around with and can squeeze into luggage racks more readily.

Luggage size restrictions vary from airline to airline, but the following bags should all work as cabin luggage (you just might have to pay for it with airlines like Ryanair and Wizz Air) and are compatible with overhead storage racks on trains and buses. They're also all fairly unfussy, with stowable straps and enough features to be useful, but not overbearing.

Some are better suited to work trips away where you'll need to have your bag on you at all times, while some are perfect for long weekends where you need only carry it about for an afternoon while you wait to check into your accommodation.

How we tested the best travel backpacks

All the travel packs featured here (and several more which didn't make the cut) have been used and abused by Fliss Freeborn, a digital writer for LFTO.

Fliss used each pack over of a few months for her frequent weekend travels both abroad and around the UK. Fliss lives in Glasgow but spends more time traveling than she does in her own house.

This is on account of her being a remote outdoor journalist who is always either heading into the city for work stuff or into the wilderness for... work stuff. So she knows more than most what makes a good bit of travel luggage.

We tested against a range of criteria including comfort, material quality, capacity, value for money. But Fliss also evaluated each pack on its organisational features like laptop sleeves and quick-access pockets.

Plus, she made sure to highlight packs that maximise travel restrictions, like the Osprey Sojourn which gives you a lot of packing space without incurring a hand-luggage charge.

Best travel backpacks reviewed:

What to look for in a travel pack

Knowing what to look for before buying a travel backpack depends mostly on what it's going to be used for, but that said, there are a few constants to bear in mind – whether or not you're going off for months at a time, or just a few days.

Materials

You'll want something that is tough enough to be thrown about a bus, taxi, ferry or other mode of transport – and possibly sat on at an airport – so going for something on the heftier end might not be a bad shout. We like toughened canvas, but ripstop nylon is great too.

Some amount of padding, especially for laptop and tablet housing, is a must if you tend to travel with those items, but not so much that it impedes on useful packing space.

Given your luggage is going to be dragged, pushed, pulled and squished, this is not really the place for state-of-the-art lightweight materials, but that said, your pack shouldn't weigh a tonne either, as that'll impact how much stuff you can get in it and still be within the weight limit if you're using it as a carry-on.

Features

In general, a travel pack should have a separate handy compartments that enable you to organise your kit as you want to. Smaller pockets can be handy for valuables such as phones, wallets or passports. However, while they should be easily accessible to you, they need to be difficult to get to for others.

Lockable zips are also something to look for, especially if you'll be traveling on busy public transport in areas known for pickpocketing. You can buy handy luggage locks on Amazon.

Other features, including internal storage space, depend upon how exactly you like to pack. Many of the backpacks in the list above have cavernous, empty interiors which could benefit from being used with packing cubes, helping to organise larger spaces and compress your items so you can fit more in.

Other packs have built-in storage solutions for different bits and bobs – fine if you're only ever packing shoes and clothes but this could be a little restrictive if you're wanting to cart around 15kg of charcuterie, or other strangely non-compressible objects.

Straps

The straps on a travel pack can make or break the experience, especially if you're having to carry it through museums and other tourist attractions in a city all day.

It's why we prefer packs over holdalls or duffel bags for city travel. They tend to be designed with ergonomics in mind more so than duffels, which although can often be carried like a backpack, are better for car-based adventures or staying at basecamp during climbing expeditions.

If you know you're going to be in and out of a lot of public transport, you should looks for stowable straps too: they're less likely to get caught in doors or catch on things in tight spaces. It also makes the travel pack more easily storable when not in use.

What capacity backpack do I need for my trip?

It very much depends on how you pack, what activities you'll be getting up to and what facilities you have at your accommodation.

If you're a savvy space saver going somewhere that already has bedding and toiletries, you can get away with 30 litres for a long weekend quite easily.

If you're a little bit more of an over-packer, or need spare shoes, extra warm clothing or food, taking 35-40L for around three days is advisable. We find that if it's a sunny city trip for four to five days, 40 litres is absolutely fine.

Is a 40L backpack big enough for longer travelling?

Yes, often quite comfortably if you're clever about what you pack. Even on longer trips – especially if you're going somewhere hot where you can take quick-drying lightweight baselayers which pack down to next to nothing – a 40L backpack can often offer the best travel solution.

Usually, 40L is small enough to count as hand-luggage, which makes air travel much more efficient, and enables you to whisk yourself on and off a plane in no time.

Is a 50L backpack too big for carry-on?

In general, yes, 50L will be too large at full capacity. You can always get a travel pack of a larger size and use compression straps to cinch it down, but opting for something smaller as a carry-on bag is a better bet. The products we've reviewed here are all 30-40L, which will happily fit in most carry-on sizers.

Which brand is best for a travel backpack?

Any of the above brands are a high on quality, but if you're unsure, picking a brand that only specialises in rucksacks and bags (for example, Eagle Creek or Osprey) is a great bet.

As usual, you tend to get what you pay for with travel packs, especially as they're probably going to see a fair amount of abuse in their lifetime.

About the author

Fliss Freeborn is a writer and gear tester for Live for the Outdoors. During her time at university, she spent considerably more days in a tent in the Scottish Highlands than she did in the library, which she highly recommends as a study strategy.

Fliss also believes that life is too short to eat bad food outdoors, and that cooking good scran while in the hills is easier than you might think with the right kit and some forward planning – yes, you can always do better than a pot noodle.