Whether you’re headed to the beach or a backyard barbecue, finding the best cooler means balancing ice retention, durability, and price. Lucky for you, we’ve tested dozens of coolers in real-world scenarios to help you find the right pick.

We’ve put coolers through the wringer: loading them with ice and drinks, hauling them on camping trips, stashing them in hot cars, and dragging them along to swimming holes. Standouts include the indomitable YETI Tundra 45, which continues to set the standard for durability and multiday performance, and the new Igloo Recool, a compostable cooler made from recycled paper pulp that offers a sustainable alternative for shorter outings.

Every cooler we field test also goes through a standardized ice retention test, giving us objective results to compare alongside our real-world use. From premium hard-sided builds to lightweight, eco-friendly options, we dig into cooling performance and accessories to help you choose the right one for your next adventure.

Editor’s note: As of October 22, 2025, we’ve added the newly-updated model of the Yeti Roadie 24 2.0 to this guide. We also added detailed rating metrics to each product in an effort to explain how we tabulated each testing score.

More Coolers, Field Tested

The following coolers didn’t make the top of our list, but we’ve included them for their unique features or superior ice retention, and a few are great budget alternatives.

Cooler Comparison Chart

Cooler	Price	Capacity	Weight	Materials
YETI Tundra 45	$325	37 quarts	23 lbs.	Rotomolded polyethylene/urethane foam insulation
Igloo ECOCOOL	$60	52 quarts	9.8 lbs.	Recycled post-consumer resin
RovR RollR 45 Wheeled Cooler	$350	45 quarts	37 lbs.	Plastic/polyurethane foam
Igloo Recool 16qt Cooler	$10	16 quarts	1.6 lbs.	Recycled paper and AKD
RTIC Ultra-Light Hard Cooler	$219	52 quarts	31 lbs.	Injection-molded plastic
YETI Roadie 24 2.0	$250	24 quarts	13.13 lbs.	Rotomolded polyethylene/urethane foam insulation
Ninja FrostVault Cooler	$200	30 quarts	20 lbs	Plastic
Canyon Coolers Outfitter 55	$300	55 quarts	26 lbs.	Rotomolded kayak plastic with pressure-injected foam insulation
Xspec Pro 60 Quart Cooler	$230	60 quarts	31 lbs.	Rotomolded body and polyurethane insulation
Coleman 316 Series Chest Cooler	$110	120 quarts	5.5 lbs.	Injection-molded plastic
The Blue Coolers Ice Vault	$350	60 quarts	36.5 lbs.	Rotomolded polyethylene/urethane foam insulation
Igloo 25-Quart Picnic Cooler	$55	25 quarts	5.5 lbs.	Injection-molded plastic

How We Tested Coolers

Our expert gear testers have been reviewing coolers since 2014, meticulously researching dozens of the best coolers on the market to continuously update this review. This is an extensive look at seven of the best coolers you can find today.

Our Expert Testers & Testing Grounds

Contributor Heather Balogh Rochfort is an avid outdoor enthusiast based in Colorado who spends most of her waking hours hiking, biking, camping, trail running, or skiing. Coincidentally, she also loves food so toting a cooler along on all of her adventures is a given.

Miya Tsudome brings over 3 years of gear reviewing experience combined with over a decade of being a serious outdoor enthusiast to help bring this current review to life. Having spent many months living out of her car in pursuit of rock climbing adventures all over the country, she knows that having a good cooler during the hot summer months can make a world of difference. 

Our Testing Process

Each product was tested over several weeks, and taken out on different occasions for real-world applications — overnight camping trips, backyard barbecues, and day trips to the local swimming hole. The most recent lineup of coolers was tested in October in the high desert of Bishop, Calif. The average temperature was in the high 70s to low 80s for the majority of the month.

Each cooler was rated based on its performance in our ice retention test, its insulation and materials, durability, extra features, weight, ease of transport, and ease of maintenance and cleaning. The coolers that ranked the highest in specific categories were assigned an award in our top picks. 

Also, we did not include soft coolers, backpack coolers, or electric coolers in this test.

Ice Retention Test

For our ice retention test, we filled each cooler up 85% of the way with the same type of bagged, cubed ice. Each cooler stayed indoors before the test, to ensure that their starting temperatures were all about the same. It’s recommended to pre-chill a cooler for the best ice retention, we did not prechill any of the coolers to best mimic how we would actually use them.

For the actual test, we stored the coolers outside in an area that was mostly shaded during the day, with a few hours of direct sun exposure and temperatures that varied from 35 degrees overnight to 100 degrees in direct sun. This was also our idea of the best imitation of how these coolers would typically be stored outdoors. 

Variables that can affect ice retention include the ice quantity, outside environment and temp, exposure and amount of sunlight, type of ice (crushed, block, cube, dry), airspace, and more. In order to find the best of the best coolers, it was crucial for us to do a direct comparison. 

We checked each cooler’s ice retention/melt rate once a day and recorded the time and temp for each one. We also noted the time once each cooler’s ice was fully melted. The YETI Tundra 45 and the YETI Roadie 24 2.0 took first place, both retaining ice for the full 10 days.

The RTIC Ultra-Light came in next, retaining useable ice for 8 days with interior temperatures 48 hours in at 29.2 degrees F and 31.2 degrees F.

While the Igloo ECOCOOL had an interior temperature of 34.6 degrees F at the 48-hour mark, it surprisingly still had some ice left inside after 10 days. The RovR RollR 45 only lasted 6 days with useable ice, but it also had the least amount of ice inside out of all the coolers due to the useable space.

In contrast, the Coleman 316 still held a large quantity of ice after 10 days. This is more so due to the amount of ice that it holds in its 120-quart interior rather than due to its insulation properties. More ice = more ice retention. 

This test was not meant to be purely scientific, but rather to reflect the realistic use of a cooler outdoors and accurately compare cooler performance. To keep it fair, we made sure that all coolers were subjected to the same variables and criteria as much as possible.

It is worth mentioning that this test was not performed in the height of summer, but rather during a time when overnight temperatures dipped fairly low, causing the ice to melt much slower than if this test was done in July.

If you’re tired of ice and ok spending more money for an actual portable refrigerator, check out GearJunkie’s guide to the best Electric Coolers.

Our Cooler Rating System

When comparing coolers side by side, we break our evaluations into four key categories. This system provides a balanced look at performance, usability, and design, all while helping us determine which coolers stand out — and which ones melt under pressure.

Ice Retention

Ice retention is the most important measure of a cooler’s performance. We evaluate how long each model keeps ice solid in real-world conditions, including during road trips, camping weekends, and multi-day tests in fluctuating temperatures. Coolers that maintain low internal temps for several days (even when opened frequently) earn top marks here. For this metric, please reference our ice retention test (above).

Build Quality

A cooler’s durability often determines how long it will last. We look closely at construction methods (rotomolded or injection-molded) along with hinge strength, latch reliability, and gasket design. We also consider overall sturdiness, resistance to dents or warping, and how well the cooler stands up to heavy use in the field. A cooler earns bonus points for quality and durability if it is bear proof but that isn’t a requirement, nor is it always worth your hard-earned cash.

Portability

From quick tailgates to long hauls across camp, portability can make or break a cooler’s usability. We assess handle design, strap comfort, weight when fully loaded, and balance while carrying. Coolers that feel awkward or strain our arms lose points here, while those with ergonomic grips or smart strap systems get high marks.

Capacity and Organization

A cooler’s capacity isn’t just about volume; it’s about usable space. We look at how efficiently each model stores cans, bottles, and ice, and whether its internal layout makes access easy. Features like baskets, dividers, and wine-bottle-friendly heights earn extra credit for improving real-world organization and versatility.

Buyers Guide: How to Choose the Best Cooler

Cooling Performance

Insulation & Materials

Coolers have a long and storied history. From a humble beginning as a wooden box with an interior tin chamber invented by Thomas Moore Jr. in 1802, to the decently insulating styrofoam boxes that came from the World War II era, to the plastic exterior coolers we know today pioneered by the Coleman company, coolers have come a long way.

Historically, coolers have been made with interior and exterior shells of plastic, with hard foam in between. Many basic coolers are still made this way today, such as the Igloo ECOCOOL and the Coleman 316. 

In 2006, two brothers named Roy and Ryan Seiders revolutionized the cooler market with their rotational molding or “rotomolding” design. This involves a heated plastic mold that is rotated continuously while powdered polyethylene is added to it to create a uniform thickness. They also pioneered the use of polyurethane instead of styrofoam as insulation, which created superior ice retention.

YETI was the company born from its design and is considered the gold standard in coolers today. Many companies have since adopted the rotomolding technique for their coolers. Now, a majority of premium coolers like the YETI Tundra 45 and the YETI Roadie 24 2.0 are rotomolded.

Coolers use a few different sorts of foam or petroleum-based insulation, typically double-walled. YETI employs its pressure-injected polyurethane foam, while Igloo uses its proprietary THERMECOOL insulating foam.

While rotomolded coolers offer the best ice retention and durability by far, they are also considerably more heavy and expensive. The trade-off for lighter, less expensive coolers, however, will be in their performance and durability. 

More recently, manufacturers have introduced coolers made from recyclable or compostable materials. These models, such as the Igloo Recool Cooler, are built from molded paper pulp with plant-based binders instead of petroleum-derived foams. Their insulation is modest compared to plastic or rotomolded designs, but they offer a sustainable alternative to disposable Styrofoam chests. Best suited for short-term use like picnics, concerts, or day trips, compostable coolers trade multi-day ice retention for environmental responsibility.

Seals

The highest-performing coolers in our lineup all have heavy-duty rubber gaskets that work to seal their lids airtight. In order to keep your cooler as consistently cold as possible, you need to be able to trap that cold air inside and keep it closed.

The best coolers will implement the same materials and mechanisms as deep freezers will, with rubber gaskets that create airtight seals, and sturdy, thick latches that pull the lids tight. The Igloo ECOCOOL, the Igloo Recool and the Coleman 316 are the only coolers in our lineup that do not implement this feature.

Exterior Color

Another thing to consider if you want the absolute best-performing cooler you can buy is the color you choose. When measuring the outside temperature of each cooler during our ice retention test, the lighter-colored coolers consistently had lower exterior temperatures. So although that dark grey cooler might be more your style, the white one might be the better choice.

Size & Volume

The sweet spot volume of all the coolers we tested was a 40- to 45-quart cooler. This medium size is the most convenient, providing enough space for 3-5 days’ worth of food for one or two people, plenty of room for a few six-packs of cold drinks for a backyard barbecue.

In terms of the different sizes that each brand offers, 30- and 60-quart capacities are also popular. The largest cooler we tested was the Coleman 316. It can serve a purpose for large events or gatherings and is a good value for its size. On the flipside, the smallest cooler we tested is the Igloo Recool 16qt Cooler that is best suited for day-long activities like picnics or small gatherings with friends.

You’ll want to consider not only how much cooler space you may want for different adventures, but also consider a cooler’s dimensions. You don’t want to buy the perfect cooler only to find out that it doesn’t fit in your car when packed, or in a spot on your storage shelf. Most coolers are rectangular in shape, and can be easy to slide into car trunks and stack other things on top of.

Some coolers have wheels, like the RovR RollR 45, which, while making transport easier, can take up more room in a trunk or on a shelf. It’s also a good idea to think about the items you’ll be keeping cool and make sure those (maybe wine bottles or a coffee press for camping) fit the internal dimensions as well.

Weight

Weight is also an important consideration when choosing a cooler. Rotomolded coolers with their thick, 2 inches of insulation and durable outer plastic layer will be the heaviest cooler you can buy. Coolers like the YETI Tundra 45 all weigh between 23 and 30 pounds alone. The RovR RollR 45 weighs a whopping 37 pounds. Granted, it has wheels, which means transportation won’t be as difficult an affair. 

The RTIC Ultra-Light Hard Cooler is a great innovation from RTIC that uses injection molding to create a lighter, midsized cooler. At 31 pounds, the 52-quart model is around the same weight as its 45-quart, rotomolded counterpart, resulting in a higher capacity for less weight.

The Igloo ECOCOOL weighs in at only 9.84 pounds, putting it on the lighter side for a hard-sided cooler (None of these coolers weigh less than the Igloo Recool Cooler at a featherweight 1.6 pounds). However, its lightness is attributed to its injection molding, thin walls, and noninsulated lid. Though lightweight, the ECOCOOL is not a premium cooler for the serious consumer but is a great budget pick or option for someone who has more trouble carrying heavier loads.

Ease of Transport

Handles or Wheels?

Some would say this is personal preference, but in our opinion, it all comes down to your cooler volume and what you’re hauling. So, if you are leaning toward a 20- to 40-quart cooler, you probably don’t need wheels.

These coolers aren’t so wide that it’s difficult to carry them on your own, and typically come with molded indentations as well as sturdy rope handles on either side. Our testers loved the YETI Tundra 45 with its military-grade nylon rope handles and comfortable, rubber grips.

If you are going to invest in a cooler with a capacity of 60, 70, or 100+ quarts, definitely consider one with wheels, or at least one with a few different carry options (tow handles, grips, two-person carry, etc). This is a flaw in the Coleman 316 we tested, which at a 120-quart capacity and 37.9-inch width does not come with wheels and pretty much requires two people to carry it fully loaded.

The RovR RollR 45 Wheeled Cooler, however, comes with beefy all-terrain plastic tires that can handle sand, gravel, and rough terrain with ease, making it the best of its class for ease of transport.

If you are frequently loading up on ice and filling that bad boy with cans, you may want something with wheels. Or maybe not, if you plan on rolling that cooler over rugged terrain. But, if you know you’ll be hauling your cooler around with family or friends, a two-handled one may work just fine.

Durability & Build Quality

It’s also worth considering the durability and build quality of a cooler, especially when you start shelling out some more cash. A cooler can be an expensive investment, and if you are planning on using one a lot, it’s nice to know that it will hold up to years of use.

Rotomolded Coolers

Rotomolded coolers take the cake in this category again, with their continuous molding design creating a noticeably thick and robust exterior. This method creates a uniform thickness all around. These coolers have superior ice retention and can be a seat or footstool, not to mention withstand attempts at forced entry by grizzly bears. 

Yes, you read that correctly. Coolers such as the YETI Tundra 45 and RovR RollR 45 hold certifications from the International Grizzly Bear Committee that state that they successfully withstood attempts at entry from actual grizzly bears.

Not only is this a testament to their durability, but it also allows you to have peace of mind if you do any camping in areas where bears might be of concern.

Injection-Molded Coolers

Injection-molded coolers create two separate shells, fused together by insulated foam. They are lighter than their rotomolded counterparts. Yet they are more likely to crack or separate, causing their durability to be called more into question over time.

While you can sit on the lids of the Igloo ECOCOOL and the Coleman 316, the noticeable flex of their plastic will make you want to be more careful handling these coolers.

Recyclable & Compostable Coolers

Recyclable coolers (like Igloo’s Recool) take a completely different construction approach, using molded paper pulp rather than plastic shells. While they aren’t built to last for years like rotomolded or injection-molded coolers they’re sturdier than disposable Styrofoam chests and can handle the weight of food, drinks, and ice for a day. Their durability is best suited for occasional use, festivals, or day use where ruggedness isn’t the main priority.

Maintenance & Cleaning

After purchasing a new cooler, it’s important to keep up with some basic cleaning and maintenance to ensure its lifespan is as long as it can be. After use, you’ll always want to leave the lid open to let the cooler air dry. This ensures no moisture gets trapped inside, causing mildew or bacterial growth. It’s a great idea to wash the interior with some warm, soapy water, and then let air dry.

You do not want to leave a cooler with food and water in it for days, as this will ensure bacterial growth (and in coolers like the Igloo Recool, may cause disintegration). Most of the coolers in our lineup are relatively easy to clean. The lighter coolers, such as the Igloo ECOCOOL and the Coleman 316, can tip over easily when empty and the lid is open. This makes them a little more cumbersome as the lid can flop close on you while giving the scrub down.

Price & Value

The best coolers are not cheap, but if you know what you need, it’s easier to find a model that can fit your budget and your food storage needs.

Budget

In general, the less expensive cooler will be smaller and have injection-molded plastic shell with some sort of foam insulation. They have thinner walls and don’t insulate as well as more expensive models. If you’re only going to use your cooler for day trips or brief overnight, then it’s totally possible to make an inexpensive cooler work for you!

The most affordable cooler in this guide is the Igloo Recool 16qt Cooler ($10), a recyclable and reusable featherweight. It’s quite different than all the other coolers listed here because it’s made of recycled paper and is not built for the long haul. Still, it does a great job of keeping drinks chilled for a day when portability is the priority.

The Igloo ECOCOOL ($60) gets you 52 quarts of storage for food and ice is lightweight, and even had a little ice left at the end of our 10-day retention tests. Its handles are a bit flimsy, it isn’t bear-proof, and there is no drain plug, but if keeping your food fresh for a day or so is all you need, it will absolutely do the trick. If you need even more space without breaking the bank, check out the Coleman 316 Series Chest Cooler ($110)

Mid-tier

The Xspec Pro 60-Quart Cooler ($230) sits smack in the middle of price and performance and is a great option if you need a cooler to last a week. Or, for a few more dollars, you can snag the YETI Roadie 24 2.0 ($250), a rotomolded option with fantastic ice retention and a newly-added drain plug.

Premium

The YETI Tundra 45 ($325) is our top pick and one of the more expensive coolers on our list. The Tundra is THE cooler that set off the roto-molded cooler wars and has pushed the competition to really up their game. The Tundra 45 is IGBC-certified (bearproof), has high-quality polyurethane foam insulation, and easily held ice for over ten days.

The Canyon Coolers Outfitter 55 ($300) isn’t bearproof, but does have better storage capacity, and the RovR RollR 45 Wheeled Cooler ($350) is easier to move around. All are excellent insulators, but it’s best to check the specs to make sure you’re getting exactly what you’re looking for if you’re going to pay top dollar.

Frequently Asked Questions

Pocket knives are flat-out handy. And they’re a ton of fun. Whether you’re a general outdoorsman, blue-collar worker, or someone who’s looking for an everyday practical tool, they can quickly turn into an obsession.

Obsessed would be a good way to describe the team at GearJunkie. We have backpackers, climbers, hunters, fishermen, and general outdoor enthusiasts. It’s safe to say that all of us see the value in a trusty pocket knife and use one regularly. Pocket knives transcend our differences in interests. They’re a piece of gear for everyone.

Fortunately, as a team, we have the opportunity to test, use, and abuse a ridiculous amount of knives. Below is our selection of favorites, all but guaranteed to make you feel the same excitement you did when you opened your first one. From high-end knives with advanced steels to some of the cheapest, most time-tested knives in history, you’ll find the perfect addition (or start) to your collection.

Editor’s Note: This guide was revamped on October 16, 2025, with all-new selections.

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Pocket Knives Comparison Chart

Pocket Knife	Price	OAL	Blade Length	Blade Steel	Blade Shape	Lock Type	Weight
Benchmade Bugout	$180	7.46″	3.24″	S30V	Drop Point	AXIS (crossbar)	1.85 oz.
Opinel No.08 Inox	$19	7.59″	3.28″	Sandvik 12C27 Stainless	Yatagan	Locking ring	1.6 oz.
Knafs Lander 2	$129	7.40″	3.25″	S35VN	Drop Point	Clutch (Crossbar)	2.9 oz.
Kershaw Bel Air	Around $150	7.3″	3.1″	CPM MagnaCut	Reverse Tanto	Sliding bar lock	2.3 oz.
Benchmade Osborne	$300	7.87″	3.4″	CPM Magnacut	Reverse Tanto	AXIS (crossbar)	2.72 oz.
Victorinox Huntsman	$50	NA	2.5″	Stainless	Standard	None	3.4 oz.
CIVIVI Yonder	$67	6.62″	2.88″	14C28N	Spey point	Crossbar	2.73 oz.
Leatherman Glider	$300	7.3″	3″	CPM MagnaCut	Sheepsfoot	Compression wedge	3.7 oz.
Spyderco Paramilitary 2	Starting at $199	8.26″	3.45″	S45VN (standard)	Clip point	Compression lock	3.9 oz.
Benchmade Auto Immunity	$325	5.9″	2.5″	Cerakoted CPM M4	Wharncliffe	Auto Axis	3.3 oz.
DPx Gear HEST/F 4.0	$275	7.82″	3.15″	MagnaCut	Drop Point	Frame	4.9 oz.
Case Trapper	Around $65	7.38″	3.25″	Tru-Sharp stainless	Clip point, spey	Slip joint	4.2 oz.
CRKT Crossbones	$82	8.06″	3.54″	AUS-8	Trailing point	Liner lock	2.4 oz.
Benchmade CLA	$400	7.85″	3.4″	MagnaCut	Drop point	Button lock	3.47 oz.

How We Tested the Best Pocket Knives

Out of all of the things we test around GearJunkie, pocket knives seem to get easier and easier every year — because everyone wants one. Suffice it to say, the knives we’ve recommended on this list weren’t just tested at a desk or in some random workshop in the Midwest, they were used, abused, loved, and carried for extended periods.

For this update, we enlisted our resident knife tester, Nick LeFort to take the reins to determine what knives out there were worthy of this list. He spent the fall and winter testing out a variety of knives in his day-to-day life, out on adventures, and in all conditions. LeFort believes that the best way to see what a knife can do is to rely on it in real life. He’s not wrong.

So, What Did They Do?

Where you can find YouTube and the internet peppered with people cutting rope and cardboard in their garage, you’re more apt to find Nick out in the woods, down by a river, or wherever his day takes them. Heck, you may see him wandering around Whole Foods with one of these knives (in their pocket, of course). To him, testing isn’t a 9-to-5 job; these knives are part of his life.

Having a keen sense of how a particular knife steel performs, or how a certain handle material’s grip could be impacted by inclement weather, as well as a vast knowledge of what’s going on in the market, he was able to act and react accordingly. On these few aspects as well as many others. The end result is the purest form of product testing: in the moment.

The bottom line is that our approach to testing is to make sure a product and its parts perform as expected. With marketing being what it is, with the intent to sell one particular knife above all of the others, it’s easy to buy into the hype. In this case, we look at that hype and see if it’s all just talk or the real deal.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Pocket Knife

Knife Steel

The amount of knife blade steel and handle materials out there is pretty impressive. But, where the handle materials seem to have stabilized, there’s new steel coming out every year. As you can see from the above selection of eight knives, there are seven different knife steels. Our recommendation is to consider each steel on a case-by-case basis. But they should still meet or exceed the following requirements:

Corrosion Resistance

The last thing you want is your knife turning orange on you out in the field. Especially if you’re planning on using it to prepare food. All of the steel mentioned in this guide either has exceptional corrosion resistance or has been coated to eliminate the occurrence of rust.

Abrasion Resistance

Some people consider this property to be more form than function. But in all reality, if your blade can easily get scraped up that can lead to chipping, which then could lead to blade failure.

Edge Retention/Ease of Resharpening

No matter what knife you carry, the worst knife you could carry is a dull one. That being said, you want to look for knife steels that either excel in edge retention or can be easily resharpened.

You can learn more about specific knife steels here.

Handle Material

When it comes down to handle material it’s all about grip. Ergonomics play a part in this as well, as you could have great handle material in a weird shape that will cause fatigue. In the end, you won’t want to use the knife and you’ll have wasted your money. These are some of the more preferred materials on the market today:

G10 & Micarta

G10 and Micarta are both extremely strong materials. Both excel in grip whether your hands are wet or dry, which is why those two materials are so popular with EDC, Survival, Tactical, and Bushcraft-style knives.

Nylon & Plastic

Nylon and plastic also make for great handle materials because they’re durable and lightweight. They’re also generally textured. It’s this texturing and styling that increases the grip on a knife with these materials.

Note: Nylon and plastic handle scales carry a litany of names. Some of the more popular names are: FRN/Zytel (Fiber Reinforced Nylon), GRN (Glass Reinforced Nylon), GFN (Glass Filled Nylon), and Grivory (Injection Molded).

Carbon Fiber

A lot of folks think carbon fiber is just pretty to look at, but in all reality, this woven material is lightweight and strong. Depending on its composition, it could be the perfect balance between strength, weight, and durability. You can bet your bippy you’ll pay more for a knife with carbon fiber, but it’s worth it.

Aluminum & Titanium

Both aluminum and titanium are incredibly strong and lightweight materials, making them great for knife handle scales. But where aluminum has become relegated to budget knives, titanium is usually saved for premium and ultra-premium knives. The only drawback to both of these materials is that they can be slippery when wet.

Ease of Use

Ease of use is a big deal when considering what knife is right for you. It can come in many forms from ergonomics, to lock design, to the hardware used to keep the knife together and in good functioning order. All in all, the last thing you want to do is struggle with or be uncomfortable using your knife.

Accessibility

Aside from how a knife functions, your ability to access it plays a role in its reliability. After all, if you can’t reach it when you need it, then why carry it at all? The right knife for you will be easy to carry in your pocket or on your belt.

Ergonomics

A good knife will feel right in your hand. From the shape of the handle scales to the overall thickness, and even texturing, ergonomics can be the difference between you being confident with your knife or leaving it in your drawer at home. When you consider a knife, put it in your hand and give it a good squeeze. Then, push down hard on a hard surface. If everything feels right, that’s your next knife.

Lock Mechanism

Without fail, you will find yourself in a position where you need to rely on the lock on your knife more than you expected. 

Some of the more common lock types are liner/frame locks that use a bar that indexes into the back of the blade. There are also button-style locks that use a steel barrel to keep the blade engaged. However, the most popular lock type is the crossbar lock which also uses a steel bar to hold the knife in place.

In my time and experience, I have never seen a crossbar-style lock mechanism fail without some outside force, creating a major disruption in how the knife functions. Like a truck running it over.

Pocket Clip

The right pocket clip will keep your knife in place in your pocket and will be easy to insert and remove. Generally, pocket clips are steel or titanium, designed to retain their shape, and be around half the length of the knife when they are closed.

However, there are wire pocket clips that can deform over time. There are also shorter pocket clips that, depending on the size of the knife, can cause it to float around in your pocket, or even come out of your pocket.

I would pick a wire pocket clip over a shorter clip any day.

Ball Bearings

Ten years ago, you needed to pay $300 to get a knife with ball bearings in it, but now you can find them for under $100.

Ball bearings assist in the opening and closing of a knife. In fact, there are some knives out there that are so fluid in operation, due to ball bearings, that they’re just as fast, if not faster than an automatic knife. They’re also legal in more places than an auto.

Price & Value

Knife pricing isn’t as cut and dry as I think most of us would like it to be. Yes, just like with any other consumer good, factors like materials, design, and function all play into the final price of a knife. However, as we’ve recently seen with a reliable and desirable $10 knife from Walmart, there are a lot of things going on behind the scenes that determine what we pay at the store for a knife.

How much material a knife manufacturer buys has a major impact on the price you pay for a knife. Material prices, in general, will fluctuate based on how much of each item a brand purchases overall. We’ve most recently seen this with MagnaCut, which became a popular steel seemingly overnight. As more brands adopted it in their knives, the overall price of the steel itself went down.

Another major factor is the country of origin. Within the last decade, the quality of knives made by overseas brands like WE Knife, CIVIVI, and most recently, OKNIFE has improved beyond anything we could have imagined. However, the brand’s prices are still comparatively lower than similar knives made in North America.

This brings up the brand name factor. Knives from brands like Benchmade generally retail for more than similar knives from other brands. It’s not outside the realm of reason that you’re paying into the brand as much as you are the product. In the case of Benchmade, you’re also buying free sharpening for life as well as a pretty significant lifetime warranty.

With that said, we’re going to break knives down into the following three categories based on pricing in general. But, to be fair, in the production knife world, there are no clear and defining lines between Budget knives, Mid-tier knives, or Premium knives. The following is a generalization of what you can expect from each category.

Budget

You can expect to pay less than $100 for budget knives, which usually have more affordable materials. Does this make the knife any less useful? No. A budget knife should do everything you would expect it to. However, it may require more maintenance to keep it up and running.

Knives like the CRKT CEO Microflipper ($60) and CIVIVI Yonder ($67) that use Sandvik 12C27 and Nitro-V are considered budget knives. Although both steels are stainless and will, therefore, stand up against moisture and stave off rust and corrosion, both steels require more sharpening to maintain their reliable edge.

Another great budget example is the OKNIFE Rubato 2 ($85). It has premium 154CM, Micarta handle scales, a stainless steel liner, and a crossbar lock. Ten years ago, this knife would have cost $150-175, but as other steels have taken precedence over 154CM, the price of that steel has plummeted. This is a major bonus for anyone looking for a heck of a knife on a budget.

Mid-Tier

A majority of people carry mid-tier knives around. Ranging from $100 to $200, they may feature a range of steels like 154CM, M390, S35VN or even MagnaCut. All four of those steels can also be found on premium knives, due to their corrosion and abrasion-resistant properties, toughness, and edge retention. Mid-tier knives tend to have a more robust build than Budget knives.

There also may be a heavier focus on ergonomics and knife weight. The Knafs Lander 2 ($129) is a great example of a mid-tier knife. It has S35VN steel, Micarta, G10, or carbon fiber handle scales, and a crossbar lock. These are all desirable materials and features at an easy-to-digest price

Premium

Premium knives are the cream of the crop and make up a small segment of the market. They may be priced higher due to the manufacturer or where the knife is made. They could also use new and innovative materials, or a combination of all three of these reasons.

Another variable is availability. Some manufacturers make knives in smaller batches. Other knives are custom. In these instances, you can expect to pay more as well. The Schwarz Knives Overland Sport ($265) from Schwarz Knives is a small-batch, customizable, made-to-order knife. Due to its exclusivity, its price is reasonably high. 

Where a lot of people instantly think of Benchmade as their prime example of premium, there’s also DPx Gear, which is a smaller, boutique-style brand. They offer production knives like the HEST/F 4.0 ($275), which is hand-made from premium materials. So, again, like Schwarz Knives, there’s a hint of exclusivity here, although in the case of DPx, it’s on a larger scale.

Frequently Asked Questions

After a few years of using almost entirely canister, white gas, alcohol, or wood stoves, I’d forgotten the ease of just plugging a propane canister into a burner and scrambling up breakfast in a full-sized pan. That approachability is the very reason that Coleman’s Classic two-burner stoves are as popular as they are: open, plug in the propane, and get to cheffing it up.

Coleman’s Cascade 18 does forgo its predecessor’s built-in windscreens — a bold move. That shield is a large part of what has long made the old ones so easy to use. It also lowers the BTUs and goes lean with a single burner head. However, it’s a tradeoff for simplicity and better fuel economy in a smaller and lighter package. Here’s where I think this solo stove excels and where I see it fitting in camp kitchens.

In short: The Cascade 18 aims squarely at being the flex stove. For car camping, horseback camping, and paddling trips for one or two people, it’s more than enough. For larger group forays, it’s an excellent accessory stove — perfect for scrambling up the eggs while someone tends the steaks on the campsite grill. Simple, easy, and stowable, it lacks its bigger siblings’ oomph and shines most at a sale price, but is perfect for those looking for a moderate-use stove.

Looking to snag a new camp stove? Check out how the Cascade 18 compares to the rest of the options out there in GearJunkie’s Best Camping Stoves Buyer’s Guide.

Coleman Cascade 18 Camp Stove: Review

Coleman’s two-burner stoves are certified classics, and the company’s combination of two burners, a built-in igniter, a propane preference, a wind screen, and a platform more than capable of handling even heavy cast iron has been iconic since the ‘70s. 

Given decades of iteration and performance, any variation has to do something markedly different than the rest of the lineup — and that the Cascade 18 does. 

Scaling down to a single burner makes this stove far more stowable and takes up less “counter space.” However, the BTUs do take a hit here. Whereas modern two-burners pack 11,000 BTUs for each burner, the Cascade 18 offers 8,000. It’s a clear tradeoff toward energy efficiency — a plus for longer trips. 

However, that efficiency doesn’t count for much if the wind is blowing. This makes the lack of a windscreen arguably the most controversial element.

Still, folding wind screens are a dime a dozen, and the ultralight zeitgeist has touched the camping world as well. Even for car campers, lighter, slimmer, and easier to stow is in vogue. To that end, nixing the built-in windscreen, more than half the weight, and nearly half the footprint makes plenty of sense for campers in 2025.

The Testing Grounds

Before we get too far down the rabbit hole of specs and cook times, it’s worth knowing what I’ve put this little burner through over the last 4 months. In short: A few thousand miles on the road, a few hundred on “roads,” a few dozen on the water, and plenty of meals cooked around the campground and wildland fire station where I work.

The Cascade 18 was my primary stove during my moving road trip from the suburbs of Chicagoland to a fire station in the Tahoe National Forest, Calif. By my count, it’s been rattling around relatively loose in my trunk for over 3,000 miles, with nary a scratch.

The Cascade cooked me a bevy of breakfasts in cheap motels. It rustled up dinners amid sagebrush-lined two-track. During a particularly adventurous paddling trip, the Coleman kept me sane by being well-fed. After all, what to do when a trip turns dicey? Get to working on lunch.

Since touching down in Tahoe, it only occasionally rears its head — equal parts excuser and enabler of cooking out on the picnic table, instead of in our barracks’ kitchen. Nevertheless, on the rare occasions that the fires here slow down enough to get a few days off, the Coleman Cascade has certainly earned its spot as my canoeing cooktop of choice.

A Classic (And Rugged) Build

Like its predecessor, the Cascade 18 is primarily constructed from aluminized steel — essentially steel coated with aluminum. The result is a cooktop with good heat conduction and radiation and considerable corrosion resistance. It would be tough to scratch through the coating or see any significant rust.

Likewise, it sports Coleman’s same old propane connection arm. Although now the grate itself is designed to hold this arm more snugly when in storage mode. It’s a nice touch, but a necessary one due to what’s bound to be one of the most divisive changes: the omission of the classic folding wind screen. 

I’ve lost track of the number of times I’ve seen car campers playing around with their Coleman stoves — trying to get them perfectly shielded. Hell, this was exactly the sight that greeted me when I was loading back up from the paddling trip where I first tested the Cascade overnight.

In addition to the diminished protection, this means that the Cascade 18 doesn’t have a storage mode that protects the burner and its components. You simply flip the grate upside down and slot in the propane intake arm. It’s a simpler process, but one that lacks a lid to keep you from losing the propane connection arm.

Still, the Coleman’s construction remains relatively bombproof. Even after months of chucking it around relatively carelessly, I’d yet to see a notable scratch, loose knob, or damaged propane intake. 

Space and Storage

The simplified construction does win major points on stowability. Compared to the 21″ x 13″ x 3.5″ footprint of their two-burner stove, the 13″ x 13″ x 3″ Cascade 18 is a far easier cooktop to stow. This may not be crucial for car campers with larger vehicles, but it was a boon for me on a number of occasions. 

On my kayaking trip, a two-burner stove simply would not have fit in my hull, between the bulkheads. Even on my road trip, my 4Runner was packed to the gills. It was hard enough finding space for me — let alone a large stove. Fortunately, I was always able to slot the small, slimmer Cascade 18 somewhere in my vehicle.  

Now, living in Forest Service barracks, where space is at a premium, I’m all the more glad for the Cascade’s slight size. It doesn’t pack down into nearly as rugged and self-contained a package as Coleman’s Cascade Classic Stove, but it always slots away easily somewhere. For someone who is only cooking for himself and perhaps a romantic partner, how much more stove could I need?

A Mild Heat

Stove output is measured in BTUs, or British Thermal Units. Your average stovetop burner produces 7,000-12,000 BTUs. Most two-burner stoves produce around 10,000-12,000 BTUs per burner, with some, like Camp Chef’s Everest 2X stove, producing up to 20,000 BTUs.

The Cascade 18’s wild card is its relatively low 8,000 BTUs. For reference, the MSR Pocket Rocket Deluxe, an ultralight backpacking stove, boasts 11,000 BTUs. Of course, the Cascade’s wide burner, nearly 4 inches in diameter, offers more even heating for actual cooking. At full blast, it throws flame in a ring over 6 inches wide. 

Whether cooking chili, sauteeing scrambled eggs, toasting bread, or frying fish, I noticed only a slight hotspot. Granted, I was using a wide-bottom steel pan: a Gerber ComplEAT Saute Pan. So, I had even heating and a consistently controllable cooking experience. 

Using a steel 10-inch pan indoors at around 4,000 feet of elevation, it took me around 6 minutes to boil a liter of room-temperature water. That’s a decent time, a little more than a minute behind most two-burner stoves. Additionally, ripping the stove at full blast, as I was, the Cascade boasts an impressive 2.5-hour fuel life for your average 16-ounce propane canister.

But that’s indoors. In windy conditions, with a wide and relatively low BTU burner and no built-in wind shielding, an aftermarket windscreen of some sort is a must-have. Even then, if your screen doesn’t wrap most of the way around the stove, you may well find yourself cranking the Cascade up to full throttle, chewing through its fuel advantage, still short on BTUs.

Coleman Cascade 18 Camp Stove: Conclusion

Coleman’s Cascade 18 is far from the portability of backpacking/camping crossover stoves, but it boasts plenty over most dual-burner stoves in stowability. It lacks the higher output of its predecessors, but it offers enough oomph to fry, sauté, and boil up one- to two-person meals — with considerably better fuel economy.

Over the last few months with it, I’ve found four use cases where the Cascade stood head and shoulders above the rest: paddling, cramped car camping, as an accessory stove, and for minimalist mechanized camping. 

Sometimes, simply having an extra, accessory burner makes all the difference: in communal hostel kitchens, extended-stay hotels with tiny stovetops, or for larger group trips where two burners just might not cut it (at least not without being cramped).

Lastly, of course, sometimes you just want to simplify. Pull up to a campsite 2 hours after dark, and you might just want a stove that’s simple and gets the job done. On a cold day in winter, small fiddly stoves are annoying. Wood stoves are frigid work. Canisters and alcohol aren’t very efficient. Larger propane stoves can be a hassle. 

When you want something, you can just pull out the trunk and have dinner heating in 90 seconds flat — now that’s when you’re cooking with Cascade.

Popular sleeping pad maker EXPED is expanding its sleeping bag offerings with the Terra bags, three versatile, affordable sleeping bags. The Terra sleeping bags, which are available in 0 degrees, 15 degrees, and 30 degrees, have launched exclusively through REI. Here’s everything you need to know about this new entrant into the sleeping bag market.

Technical Specs

The unisex Terra comes in five sizes, so customers can find the fit that’s best for them. Compared to some of our favorite backpacking sleeping bags, the Terra is solidly in the mix when it comes to weight, with the medium size of the 30-degree bag clocking in at 1 pound, 9.5 ounces, and the medium size of the 0-degree bag weighing 3 pounds, 11 ounces.

The Terra 15-degree bag weighs less than Nemo’s 15-degree bag, the Disco (3 pounds versus 3 pounds, 5 ounces), and weighs 9 more ounces than REI’s Magma 15.

The bags’ warmth comes from 650-fill down, and they have an adjustable comfort hood and draft collar to keep heat in. The 3D footbox has 11 down chambers to keep feet warm while also providing ample room for movement.

A ripstop shell, made with fully recycled fabric, offers some light water resistance. Other handy features include an anti-snag zipper with glow-in-the-dark zipper pulls and an easy-access pocket inside.

Who Is the EXPED Terra For?

EXPED is aiming to attract customers who want a do-it-all sleeping bag. “[They’re] designed for the multi-activity customer who wants a single fully-featured sleeping bag that works for both backpacking and camping,” the brand said in a press release.

EXPED might also attract people who are trying to avoid breaking the bank on a sleeping bag. The prices for the bags are as follows: Terra 30 ($200), Terra 15 ($250), and Terra 0 ($300). Unlike other brands that upcharge for larger bags, prices are the same for every size of a given model of the Terra.

Compared to other brands like Nemo Equipment or Mountain Hardwear, whose 0-degree bags cost $600 and $355, respectively, the Terra is definitely on the lower end of the price scale. For backpackers who are looking to save some serious change, the Terra might just be the ticket.

GearJunkie has yet to test the Terra bags, but stay tuned for the full review coming soon.

The EXPED Terra 30, 15, and 0 are currently only available at REI. In early 2026, the sleeping bags will become available through other major retailers.

While there are a million ways to camp and as many tools for the job, there is a solid case for keeping things simple with a classic camp hatchet. Lightweight, capable, and just dang fun to swing, the best camping hatchets are versatile tools for outdoor adventures, and we’ve swung the most worthy of stocking your kit.

Whether you need a tool to pound tent stakes or split wood, take a look at our list before making your decision. There are perfect all-around choppers like our top pick, the Hults Bruk Almike, as well as cheaper options to chuck in your truck kit, like the Husqvarna Swedish Style Hatchet. Our experts have been whittling, chopping, and splitting for half a decade now, and have tested more than 30 different hatchets across the backwoods of the U.S.

And we’re not just talking wall hangers here, either. Every hatchet is put through our rigorous testing regimen in order to test its ability to process wood, do fine work while carving, clear trails, and be a backcountry companion. Our experts are backcountry trail crew leaders, blade-industry old hands, and just everyday outdoors folk, and we feel confident in every one of the tools below.

Editor’s Note: We updated our Camping Hatchets guide on October 14, 2025, to add a new section on hatchet maintenance, detailed rating attributes to each suggestion, and a shake-up to our award winners.

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Other Hatchets We Trust in the Backcountry

We’ve swung a lot of hatchets in our time, and the lineup above are the tools we trust the most to get the job done — whatever that may be. That said, there are many others we’ve come to enjoy using at camp, on the trail, and while stacking cords of wood. Check out our runner-up options below.

Camping Hatchet Comparison Chart

Camping Hatchet	Price	Weight	Overall Length	Steel Type	Handle Material
Hults Bruk Almike	$199	1 lb., 12 oz.	16″	Hand-forged Swedish steel	American hickory
Husqvarna Swedish Style Hatchet	$70	2 lb., 2 oz.	15″	Hand-forged Swedish Steel	Hickory
Gerber Bushcraft Hatchet	$70	2 lbs., 6.4 oz.	15.2″	Forged & coated 1055 stainless steel	Synthetic polymer with rubberized inserts
Fiskars X7	$35	1 lb., 6 oz.	14″	Hardened forged carbon steel	FiberComp composite
Gränsfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet	$185	1 lb., 4.8 oz.	13.7″	Recycled hand-forged Swedish steel	Hickory
Hardcore Hammers Camp Companion	$200	2 lbs., 5 oz.	16″	Black FNC coated 4140	Hickory
Hults Bruk Jonaker	$189	1 lb., 5 oz.	9.4″	Hand-forged Swedish steel	Hickory
CRKT Chogan Hatchet	$65	1 lb., 5 oz.	13.1″	1055 carbon steel	Glass-reinforced nylon
Fiskars Norden N7 Hatchet	$120	1 lb., 7 oz.	15″	Carbon steel with low friction coating	Hickory
TOPS Hammer Hawk	$530	2 lbs., 3 oz.	14.5″	1075 carbon steel with tungsten Cerakote finish	Canvas Micarta
Council Tools Flying Fox Woodsman	$67	2 lbs., 4 oz.	15.5″	1060 steel	American hickory
Hults Bruk 325-Year Anniversary Axe	$184	2 lbs., 2 oz.	15.2″	Hand-forged Swedish steel	American hickory
Kershaw Deschutes	$103	1 lb., 9 oz.	14″	Carbon steel with low-friction coating	Glass-filled nylon with rubber overlay
Gerber Pack Hatchet	$45	1 lb., 8.5 oz.	9.5″	Stainless 3Cr13MoV steel	Rubber overmold
Adler Rheinland Hatchet	$98	1 lb., 14.4 oz.	14″	C45 steel	American hickory

How We Tested the Best Camping Hatchets

GearJunkie’s camping hatchet testing covers both the real and the less-than-ideal situations in which you might find yourself with the tools.

1. Field use: We use these hatchets to clear brush, process firewood, and make trails throughout an entire season before rendering a verdict. Our experts range from knife-industry experts to backcountry trail crew leaders.
2. Balance and swing testing: Our method of testing a hatchet’s balance is to hold it at the base of the handle and let it swing down into a log or stump. If it glances off the wood, then the bit is either too dull or the head is too heavy and unbalanced against the length of the handle.
3. Chop and edge testing: We process up to a dozen 3”-4” diameter logs and vary the species to hardwoods like birch and beech, and softwoods like pine and cedar. For half of the trials, the wood was wet and green. For the other half, we processed more seasoned wood.
4. Weather resistance monitoring: All of the hatchets we’ve tested have been used hard and put away wet, and we monitor them for long-term durability from weather exposure.
5. Our Hatchet Rating System: We take all of our in-field and bench testing feedback and use it to rate each hatchet on a set of four essential metrics:
   • Cut quality: 30% weighted. How well does the hatchet chop through hardwood? Softwood?
   • Swing feel: 30% weighted. Is the hatchet balanced? Does it have enough heft to clear cuts?
   • Ease of maintenance: 20% weighted. Is the steel used easy to maintain? The handle or any covers?
   • Durability: 20% weighted. Does the head come loose after a season of use? Has the bit chipped?

Our Testing Process and Testing Locations

Our approach is to prove or disprove manufacturers’ claims about their products. That covers form and function, as well as the materials being used. So, during field testing, we’re looking at specifics, such as whether certain steel holds up in wet weather conditions or whether synthetic handles absorb shock better than wood handles.

We’re also thinking outside the box to see what else we can do with these hatchets. We want to cover all the bases so that if you have questions, we have answers. This has taken us across the country’s woodlands, from the hardwood groves of the Northeast to the lumbering old-growth of the Pacific Northwest. We put these hatchets into the hands of trail crew leaders, casual campers, and survival experts to get the spread of opinions.

Beyond that, we’re following trends. We’re looking to see what’s new in the market that could be a game-changer; the next big thing. This allows us to keep our info up to date so that you can rely on us to help you choose the right hatchet for your next adventure. We also reviewed the Best Axes for Splitting Wood for those looking for a heavier-duty splitting tool.

It’s important to us that we’re using these tools in real-life situations. Because, after all, that’s where you’ll be using them. It also allows us to consider weather conditions, fatigue, and any other variable that can come up in life that may not be in a controlled environment.

Our Expert Testers

For our most recent update, we tapped contributor Nick LeFort to fill his backpack and head into the woods to see what this year’s batch would be. LeFort spent weeks in the woods of Vermont and Connecticut, as well as in his own backyard, discovering the current cream of the crop in the world of hatchets.

LeFort is an outdoor enthusiast, engineer, and knifemaker who has worked and played in the outdoor industry for more than 20 years. He brings with him a wealth of knowledge about materials, engineering, manufacturing, and marketing, and has nearly 30 years of experience in the outdoor world.

What’s more, he’s been testing and reviewing knives, tools, and gear for more than a decade. He’s dedicated to the cause, has a lot to say, and wants to make sure you’re getting the best information you can from us.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose the Best Camping Hatchet

When seeking out the best camping hatchet, there’s a lot to consider. Ultimately, the best hatchet for you may not be the best hatchet for someone else, and it will take weighing some personal pros and cons before you gain full confidence in your decision.

You also should consider whether a hatchet is the best tool for the job. Processing wood outdoors can look pretty different depending on the size and scale of your endeavors, with full-sized axes being primed for tree felling, bushcraft knives working excellently for fine work, and hatchets landing somewhere in the middle.

As you shop around for hatchets, consider the following points of differentiation as you move closer to your final decision. If you’re stuck between a couple of options, there’s no harm in having multiple tools in the toolbox!

Hatchet Head Anatomy

Where there are more than enough shapes and sizes for Axe heads, hatchet heads tend to all be similar; especially when we’re talking about traditional hatchets. When we get into modern hatchets, some — like the Gerber Bushcraft Hatchet and the CRKT Chogan Hatchet — may pick up attributes added in to make splitting wood easier.

But for the most part, a good hatchet head is forged, and not cast. This eliminates impurities that would weaken the steel. Additionally, a hatchet head will be at or under 2 pounds and have a bit that is less than 4”.

What’s a bit? Well, we’re glad you asked. A “bit” is the blade of the hatchet head. If you want to sound really on your game at a cocktail party, you could refer to your hatchet as a “single bit” as it only has one sharp edge. Here are a few other terms you should get to know:

• Cheek: The cheek of the hatchet head is the side profile of the head. Unless the head has splitting attributes, this will be smooth and sometimes convex.
• Butt: The back of the hatchet, which you can use as a hammer. Unless specified otherwise.
• Beard: The beard of the hatchet head uses the bottom of the head in front of the handle. Depending on the shape, you can use the heel, or bottom of the bit, to roll and drag branches and logs. Additionally, the top of the bit is known as a toe.
• Eye: The eye of the hatchet is where the handle slides through the head. If the butt isn’t hardened, you run the risk of deforming the eye, which will cause the head to fall off.

Head Coatings

Another feature associated with most axe and hatchet heads is some form of coating. These coatings are added to stave off corrosion and abrasion and preserve the life of your tool. These coatings come in many different forms. 

For traditional hatchets like the Husqvarna Swedish Style Hatchet and the Gränsfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet, these coatings can be oil-based and are added during forging or a secondary finishing process. They change the actual finish on the surface of the steel and could require recoating after years of use and abuse.

Some modern hatchets, like the Fiskars Norden N7 Hatchet, the TOPS Hammer Hawk, and the Gerber Bushcraft Hatchet, may use modern techniques similar to what we see on knife steel. This could range from a black oxide coating to a diamond-like coating (DLC) to ceramic Cerakoting. They act as a secondary layer bonded to the head steel and are noted to reduce friction and their years of resistance.

There are hatchets out there that do not have any coating and rely on their chemistry to stave off corrosion and abrasion. The Estwing Sportsman’s Axe doesn’t have any coating on its tool-grade steel head and handle. Though it will provide you with years of reliable cutting, you need to remember to keep it clean so that it doesn’t corrode. That said, you’ll note that Estwing does offer a special edition of their Sportsman’s Axe that adds a corrosion-resistant coating to the steel.

Head Weight and Handle Length

Two of the most important considerations when buying an axe are choosing its head weight and handle length. Both of these decisions can be almost entirely informed by determining the hatchet’s intended use.

The average hatchet handle length ranges from 12 to 18 inches. The average head weight ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds. In order to determine the right combination of head weight and handle length, you want to find balance. To check that, you can lay the hatchet across your palm just below the head. If it balances in place, then the ratio is spot on.

The reason behind all of this is leverage. You want to let the tool do the work so you don’t get fatigued. It’s a tale as old as time and something that comes with using a hatchet over and over again. If it’s well balanced, the weight of the head and the length of the handle should work in synchrony to make chopping things energy efficient.

Where you plan on using your camp hatchet the most often is also worth consideration. If the majority of your camping is done on the roadside, weight shouldn’t matter much.

If you spend a lot of time off-trail or backpacking deep into the wilderness, weight matters. In this case, sacrificing some functionality to save some weight in your backpack may be required.

Ease of Splitting

The ease of splitting is a crucial thing to consider when purchasing a camp hatchet. If you are buying a hatchet with wood shaping and detail work in mind, wood splitting may not be a primary concern. If you envision yourself felling trees and splitting wood often, then the ease of splitting should move to the front of your mind. For heavy-duty splitting projects, check out our Buyer’s Guide of the Best Axes for Splitting Wood.

Again, longer handles and heavier axe heads generally lend themselves to easier splitting as does the head and bit shape. Consider the construction of the head and shape of the handle when shopping between similar models as well.

As you explore options, if you decide you need a tool fully dedicated to wood splitting, take a look at larger axes instead of hatchets. It’s entirely possible that the more compact camp hatchets on this list aren’t what you need after all, and you require a heavy-duty, full-size axe.

Durability

Both materials and construction play directly into the durability of the best camping hatchets.

When shopping and considering various options, pay special attention to the materials used to create the head and, to a lesser extent, the hatchet handle. The highest-quality hatchets will have forged steel heads, with a stronger preference edging toward those that are hand-forged.

It’s also worth noting how the head is attached to the shaft. Each user will have their preference, from full tang to separate pieces, and each style comes with its pros and cons.

Do diligent research on company websites and track down user reviews. These often provide excellent metrics when gauging the durability of a tool that will surely be put to use.

Carry

If you’re headed out on an adventure, you need to be conscious of how you’re going to carry your hatchet.

Most hatchets come with either a leather or composite sheath that allows you to lash the hatchet to the outside of your pack, or even throw it inside. The sheath also protects the bit from getting banged around and beat up and from cutting into anything it comes into contact with while traveling (including you).

Unless you’re buying a hatchet to leave in one place all the time, like your backyard, prioritize the hatchets with sheaths on your final list of what you’re considering buying.

Maintenance

Like any other tool, preventative maintenance will prolong the life of your hatchet. In most cases, you’ll need to maintain the head more than the handle. But if your hatchet has a wooden handle, it’s going to need some sprucing up from time to time. Here are a few essentials we recommend for keeping your hatchet up and running for the long run.

Head and Handle Coating

Even with most hatchet heads having some sort of treatment to help with corrosion resistance, it’s still a good idea to either wax or lube the head. This will enhance any corrosion protection the manufacturer applied, or help protect an older or untreated head. We recommend the Hardcore Hammer’s Tool Lube ($20). Not only is this all-natural salve good on metal, but it can come in handy in treating wood and leather as well.

Bit Sharpening and Repair

Based on how they’re used, hatchet bits generally get dull fast. They can also get chipped if they hit something left behind in the wood. There’s a lot of old farmland peppered throughout the land, and you never know what tree may have had a bit of barbed wire wrapped around it or a nail hammer to it. Trees are resilient and will grow around anything that invades its fibers over time.

We recommend using a puck-style sharpening stone to fix a chip in a blade or sharpen your bit. Lansky Sharpeners offers its Puck Dual Grit Sharpener ($11), which has a 120-grit side for repairs and a 280-grit side for honing and sharpening. Similarly, Hardcore Hammers offers its Sharpening Stone with Leather Pouch ($60). It has a 100-grit side for repairs and a 220-grit side for honing and sharpening.

Tester Nick LeFort has been using the Lansky Puck for the last 20 years. As part of the testing process, he began using the Hardcore Hammers Sharpening Stone. Both are quality products that will restore or resharpen any axe or hatchet head. The advantage of the Hardcore Hammers Sharpening Stone is the leather pouch. Both stones perform the same, even with the differences in grits.

Price & Value

As with any outdoor gear, price plays a role in deciding between similar products. Most hatchets, and especially those on our list above, are fairly priced. But that doesn’t always mean the price determines what the best hatchet is. However, there are determining factors in the final price you will pay.

Consider what you’re getting for the price you’re paying: How many tools can it function as? What are the materials being used? Does it come with a sheath? Good camping hatchets can range from garden-section implements for limbing trees all the way to investment pieces from boutique manufacturers who use the finest materials and techniques.

Budget

If you’ve just got some kindling to split, a solid budget hatchet will get the job done. Expect to pay around $35-50 for a basic chopper like this, which will likely use a drop-forged steel head and commonly a composite handle (though some shellacked wood does exist). The Fiskars X7 ($35) is an excellent example, and it performed well in our chopping tests.

The lesser-quality tool steel used in the Estwing Sportsman’s Axe ($55) helps to explain the price there, and while the Husqvarna Swedish Style Hatchet ($70) is a bit beyond the budget tier, it is just about the most affordable you’ll find hand-forged Swedish steel and a hardwood handle, making it a killer value.

Mid-Tier

Paying $100-200 for a hatchet opens up quite a few more options, along with the frequent designation of “hand-crafted”. Nordic brands like Gränsfors Bruk and Hults Bruk make excellent hatchets for the money, and you’re buying into some serious history (some forges have been running since the 17th century). You’ll get mostly hand-forged steel heads here, along with hardwood handles and fine leather sheaths.

The Fiskars Norden N7 ($120) gives up a little in the steel department, but makes up for it with the composite overstrike protection built into the handles. If you’re after a more traditional example, the Gränsfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet ($185) is a through-and-through classic, and the same can be said of the Hults Bruk Almike ($199).

Premium

Paying more than $200 for a hatchet means that you’re buying into a fine example of craftsmanship, with boutique brands that spend a lot of R&D on getting a design just right. The steels used here are high-performance, like CPM S90V or 1075, can be coated with Cerakote to provide added durability, and are mated to handles of fine hardwoods or pricey composite laminated grips.

The TOPS Hammer Hawk ($530) is a top-dollar unit but is a USA-made tool that is solid steel and swings like every bit of that price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Historically, my favorite chairs are those junk disposable ones that you can get at a box store for under $10. You don’t have to worry if an ember burns through the seat or if the legs rust off after lounging on a saltwater sandbar.

But as the years roll by, I am starting to appreciate a few elevated camp comforts, like a stove with fine simmer control, a portable fire pit, and, yes, fancier camp chairs. 

While I have tested a wide array of high-end camp chairs, only a couple have resonated enough to become part of my standard car-camping kit. After testing the newly updated NEMO Stargaze EVO-X Camp Chair, a frontcountry recliner that now unfolds to set up in seconds, it was clear it would also win a permanent seat there.

This hammock-chair hybrid masterpiece was developed with comfort in mind, whether kicking back with a copy of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy or fully reclined to take in the actual Milky Way. Here’s how I tested it and what I learned about its durability, shape, and more. 

In short: With its reclining strap system and gently swinging seat, the Stargaze EVO-X is great for stargazing, plus a well-rounded, versatile choice for everyday outdoor use. Whether you’re car camping, relaxing on the back porch, or watching community outdoor cinema, it’s an ultra-comfortable chair that’s now a snap to set up.

Looking for a new camp chair? Check out how the Stargaze EVO-X compares to the rest of our recommendations in GearJunkie’s Best Camping Chairs Buyer’s Guide.

NEMO Stargaze EVO-X Camp Chair: Review

NEMO markets this luxury camp chair as a necessary companion for dark skies camping. But if you’re going to plop down almost two bills for a seat, it better excel at more than that. Turns out, it does.

The first trial of the EVO-X was actually not camping, but rather on a month-long road-trip assignment across 12 states. My partner and I stayed primarily in motor courts along the way, and the chair proved perfect for hanging out on patios with a brew, watching the world go by, and chatting up strangers. 

Once we got back home to Colorado, summer was nearly half over, so we promptly disembarked for the high country. Over the course of the next 2 weeks, we took turns sharing the EVO-X and our rocker chair. Both are pretty luxurious, and I love how each lets you move gently back and forth. But when the campfire dwindled, the Stargazer’s reclining option delivered an extra level of versatility.  

Ridiculously Easy to Use

Previous versions of NEMO’s Stargaze chairs had a slightly complicated setup. But with this new model, that has been eliminated with an updated folding frame that sits on a broad base.

It is remarkably quick from in-the-bag to butt down, opening in just one step. Pro tip: Make sure there’s no red showing at the locking tabs, or it might collapse; there are ample warnings about that all over the product, so it’s pretty difficult to get it wrong. Closing it back up is just as intuitive and fast.

Once seated, the reclining mechanism is also smooth and forgiving. Just lean back to get into stargazing position, or stop at any angle in between. The reclining straps also rebound well when you sit back up. Since they’re made from simple webbing, there’s also nothing mechanical that can go wrong or fail.

Made to Last, Wherever You Travel

The Stargaze EVO-X is crafted from quality materials and has an overall durable feel. Even the bag is padded and rugged, complete with a roll top and comfortable carrying strap. The chair sides include pockets for cans, bottles, phones, or whatever.

They’re positioned sideways, so they look like they’d spill a drink, but such a party foul hasn’t happened so far. The headrest is also padded, and there is ample padding on the armrests and front leg area.

The X-style frame is made from steel and has six points of ground contact. Although it’s a bit higher than standard chairs, the center of gravity feels low and stable. It is also rated to hold up to a 300-pound person, which is particularly robust for a reclining camp chair. 

Just Shy of Perfection

We do have one grumble with this chair, and that’s that it could really use a footrest. Leaning back and trying to keep your feet on the ground is not a very natural feeling. Of course, this is easily remedied by bringing along a footstool or using a wooden stump to prop up the stompers.

For such a well-thought-out beast, however, I’m surprised NEMO doesn’t offer an optional canvas footrest that integrates into the chair. Or, maybe it’s coming. There are two slits on the seat bottom, the purpose of which we’ve been baffled about. Perhaps they are in anticipation of just such a footrest. 

Of course, there is another elephant in the room with the EVO-X, and that is its weight. At around 14 pounds, you won’t want to lug it too far, and if you have limited car space, you might consider another option like the GCI Comfort Pro Rocker, which weighs 3 pounds less but still hosts a rocking mechanism.

Considering the level of comfort and versatility the Stargaze provides, however, its size is still decently modest and worth the weight for close-to-car camping trips.

NEMO Stargaze EVO-X Camp Chair: Conclusion

The NEMO Stargaze EVO-X Chair is a great all-around car-camping companion. It unfolds in seconds, and its shape and hammock-style suspension make it ultra-comfortable for sitting by the fire, grubbing on some pasta, and curling up with a good book. Oh yeah — and it’s also ideal for stargazing, since it reclines for optimal night sky viewing.

The new folding frame is a genius update, and creates a camp chair that gives little reason to leave it behind anymore. The base is broad and supportive, settling into pretty much any terrain with ease. You’ll need to haul the thing around, and the updated design is undoubtedly larger than the previous one.

As long as you can afford it and fit it into your vehicle, however, it’ll end up being a lifelong companion, not just at camp, but also in the backyard, tailgating, and wherever else you might want to sit down and chill like nobility. 

As a self-proclaimed maximalist, I adore ultralight equipment — because I can carry more of it. I’ve become accustomed to my various ultralight mummy bags, so testing the Kelty Wayback 20-Degree Sleeping Bag felt like being spoiled — like slipping into custom boots after years of rocking a size too small.

With a massive 82″x34” silhouette and thick flannel lining, the Wayback feels spacious and accommodating. On draftier nights, the blanket flap offers a nice extra bit of fabric to wrap around your neck. If you tend to turtle into your bag, you’ll be pleased to find that cotton interior and synthetic Cloudloft insulation are surprisingly breathable.

Normally, I test to the extreme: challenging hot tents well below zero, pushing sleeping bags to their limits, straining backpacks’ maximum carry limits, etc. For the Wayback, however, perhaps the greatest test has been working overtime as the best part of my “bed” system as a wildland firefighter. 

In short: With over 100 nights in, under, and on the bag, the Wayback has been one of the most comfortable and versatile options I’ve ever used. That said, its 20-degree temperature rating is more a matter of safety than comfort, and its heft and bulk will relegate it to car campers and paddlers.

Are you looking for a new sleeping bag? GearJunkie’s Best Camping Sleeping Bag Buyer’s Guide will help you compare the Wayback 20 to other options.

Kelty Wayback 20 Sleeping Bag: Review

What makes the Kelty Wayback a throwback? Let’s start with the lining. The flannel isn’t fully a rewind to the Sears catalog of the ’70s, but it’s got that vibe. However, the Wayback does opt for a more modern recycled 40D ripstop nylon shell and a recycled synthetic Cloudloft insulation. 

The end result is surprisingly breathable. It won’t dry as fast as a down bag, but even on cool mornings, the Wayback recovered quickly from summer night–induced back sweat. 

Zooming out, the name of the Wayback’s game is approachability. The flannel is incredibly soft and textured. The zippers’ design makes it easy to convert the bag into a blanket. There is a flannel flap toward the opening, which can be either buttoned into the top of the bag for extra insulation or unbuttoned on warmer nights.

The spacious interior, comfort, and multi-configurability make it an easy pitch for car campers. Need a bit of extra cushion to compensate for a less-than-ideal sleeping pad? You’ve got it. Need to lighten the insulation for those bright mornings where the sun starts heating up your tent by 7 a.m.? Turn the Wayback into a blanket.

Simply put, the Wayback is a comfy throwback to the days of cushy flannel-lined car camping bags. It’s light compared to canvas-coated bags, but it’s heavy for most modern car campers. Overall, it aims for a level of comfort and versatility that makes you not mind the 30-odd liters it’ll take up in your trunk.

100-Night Test

I didn’t give the Wayback the most structured test, but I did give over 100 eclectic nights. And given that many camping sleeping bags play duvets for sofa-surfing friends and backyard blankets for chilly significant others, I like to think my tests were pretty representative. So let’s recap 100 nights spent with the Wayback.

Night 1: A hammock swinging betwixt the scrub outside Rifle, Colo., on a section of a Chicago–California road trip where pushing an extra 100 miles meant making camp by moonlight. Fortunately, a light breeze, low 40s temps, and the Wayback had me asleep in no time.

Nights 2 and 3: I found myself stranded on a desert island when a windstorm on Lake Powell turned a new kayak into a cliff-bound kite. Most of my slick backpacking sleeping bags would’ve become a grainy cocoon from the winds without a sleeping bag liner. The Wayback’s flannel inner remained plush.

Nights 4-40: The Tahoe National Forest. Wildland firefighting barracks are a toss-up. Some are shelter, and some are “shelter.” For that reason, these nights were spent in a hammock tent behind the barracks. The Wayback was oversized and used mostly as a blanket, but in temperatures down to the upper 30s, I found myself sometimes wishing for a bit more insulation.

The last 60 nights have been odd ones out. After dismantling my hammock bungalow, I started crashing on the barracks’ La-Z-Boy Pinnacle recliner sofa. Sixty nights atop a lumpy sofa wouldn’t usually be part of my testing procedure for a sleeping bag. However, wildland firefighters sleep when and where we can.

Creature Comforts

The Kelty Wayback is far from the fanciest or most technical option out there, but it does boast a few notable features. Easily the most defining is the flannel lining. Simply put, it makes the Wayback feel less like sleeping in a bag and more like slipping into a blanket cocoon. 

Another cozy addition is the tucked-in “blanket.” It can be buttoned closed to keep it in place or folded down on hotter days when you may want less fabric around your neck and head. 

Beneath that blanket is an adorable, flannel-lined pocket big enough to fit most larger smartphones. I may be a minority on this one, but a sleeping bag that is actually capable of holding my phone in a secure, out-of-the-way, and warm place — where the battery won’t drain from getting too cold — is a big plus.

The Wayback’s Cloudloft insulation actually has a decent bit of body to it. The amount of extra cushion I felt uncompressed beneath me was tangible enough to offer a bit of extra cushion. The downside of this, of course, is that the Wayback isn’t fitting into any sort of stuff sack smaller than 30 L. Even that volume comes with a fight.

Fortunately, even with some of the heavy materials, the relatively light 40D nylon ripstop exterior and the synthetic insulation dry pretty quickly. Straight out of the wash, I was able to dry the bag on a clothesline within a few hours. 

The Wayback sports a zipper running down one full side and bottom, and another partial zip on the other side, which makes maneuvering around in it easier. In fact, I’ve regularly alternated between using it as a bag and a blanket and turning it inside out to use it as a twin-sized topper on sofas.

At this price point, I do wish said zippers were YKK brand. Nevertheless, the ones included felt robust, snagged rarely, and were well-insulated with generous baffles along their full length.

Limits vs. Luxury

The Kelty Wayback 20 may be among the most comfortable bags I’ve ever used. However, that was well above its temperature rating. Once into the mid-30s, I found myself increasingly willing to trade the flap of flannel around my neck for a hood — removable or not. 

The Wayback is spacious and well-suited to all manner of sleepers. That comes with a degree of draftiness. The flannel flap up top isn’t nearly as effective as a hood at keeping heat from escaping around your head and neck. The extra space around the footbox and lack of an insulated panel on the bottom of the footbox make it feel drafty once you get into the low 30s.

The Wayback’s 20-degree rating is certainly a safety rating, not a comfort one. An exception might be if you’re sleeping with a warm hat and some thick wool socks. Then I might be comfortable taking the Wayback down into 20-degree nights. Otherwise, I would say that comfort-wise, the Wayback taps out at about 32 degrees.  

The Wayback also just isn’t practical for any human-powered carry that doesn’t involve paddles. At a minimum packable size of 30+ L, it’s just big all around. So, as versatile as it is, if you’re looking for the “if you could only have one” sleeping bag, a more minimalist down bag would be a better move. 

Kelty Wayback 20 Sleeping Bag: Conclusion

The Wayback 20 sits in a strange place. It’s aiming for an approachable and budget-friendly niche: car camping and those general hangouts where you might need a blanket. However, at around $170, the Kelty isn’t the most competitive offering price-wise. It claws back plenty of value, however, by sheer force of comfort. The versatility doesn’t hurt either. 

This sleeping bag is a bold throwback meant to accommodate every type of lounge where you don’t have to carry it far. It lacks the “I don’t care if the dog walks on it or a campfire spark hits it” durability of a canvas bag. But it’s also more practical to carry on an overnighter or a paddling trip. It’s heavier and pricier than more modern camping bags, but offers a bit more cushion and a swaddling kind of weight.

It really boils down to whether comfort is king for your resident trunk sleeping bag. Do you want to feel more at home on a road trip for three seasons out of the year? Would you like to have a heavy blanket available for when you watch a meteor shower with a chilly significant other? Or: Do you just need something cozy to toss on the sofa?

Overall, for all the less arduous but no less grand adventures, the Wayback 20 is a well-rounded choice. Hence why you’ll find mine one of three places: On a La-Z-Boy Pinnacle sofa, on my canoe, or in my trunk.

We arrived at camp after dark, blissfully exhausted from a long day exploring the magical red rock of Sedona. Our only task was to set up camp and get to bed so we could do it all over again tomorrow. 

After shuffling our gear around, we unrolled our LUNO AIR Pro Vehicle Mattress and started the 12V air pump. Only a few minutes later, we were ready to lay down our weary bodies. I slept so comfortably that night, I truly couldn’t believe it was an air mattress — or that I was sleeping in the back of a car.

I’m so used to bad sleep on air mattresses that either feel too firm or underinflated to the point I’m rolling into the middle like I’m taco filling. The AIR Pro Mattress cultivated a top-notch recovery session. The fabric choice barely makes a peep when moving around, meaning your partner won’t be disturbed, and the baffling creates a supportive surface that almost makes it feel like you’re sleeping on foam. 

Needless to say, the LUNO AIR Pro is now my go-to when heading out for a long weekend of car camping.

In short: The LUNO AIR Pro Mattress is a dream for those looking to convert the interior of their vehicle into a sleeper’s paradise. The Air Pro rolls into a compact storage bag for folks looking to maximize space when not sleeping, is quick to deploy and fill with LUNO’s upgraded air pump, and breaks down in a flash so you get moving in the morning to your next adventure. It’s one to consider if you’re big on car camping.

Looking for a new car camping mattress? Check out how the LUNO compares to the rest of the options out there in GearJunkie’s Best Camping Mattress Buyer’s Guide.

LUNO AIR Pro Vehicle Mattress: Review

While LUNO hasn’t been around long, it is certainly making an impact in the mattress space. The AIR Pro is also an upgraded version of the award-winning AIR mattress (which GearJunkie has reviewed in the past), featuring two key upgrades. First and foremost is the head support bridge attachments, which connect the air mattress’s head to the storage panels that hang off the front seats. 

This not only keeps the head of the air mattress level in that awkward gap between the front and back seats but also provides ample storage for each person. The second update is the solo zipper, which allows you to separate the AIR Pro into two individual mattresses.

This is an amazing feature if you’re going on a solo trip and want more space in your vehicle for gear or simply want to gift the second half of your mattress to your road trip buddy.

There are a lot of options out there for sleeping in your vehicle right now, from pop-up cots like the REI Co-op Trailgate Vehicle Sleeping Platform (GearJunkie has taken it for a spin) to plush foam pads like the HEST Dually, which Editorial Director Sean McCoy found perfect for sleeping in the back of his truck. The AIR Pro is likely the best inflatable version out there, and here’s what I found after a few months of testing it.

Set Up for Slumber

The LUNO AIR Pro is a self-inflating mattress that utilizes your vehicle’s 12V port and an included air pump. With the upgraded pump, inflation to a comfortable level takes as little as 2 minutes, which I found to be an accurate assessment. 

Deflating in the morning is also simple by opening the release valve. I recommend continuing to sit on the mattress to expel most of the air. You can then roll it from the bottom up to get the last little puffs out before stowing it away. As long as you’re organized with the rest of your gear, this process is fairly painless.

The only consideration is your individual vehicle and its nuances. I tested the LUNO AIR Pro in a newer Honda CR-V, and I had to stuff some gear under the foot of the mattress in a dead space to make it level. Be sure to consider this during your first couple of setups so you’re not sliding around when trying to fall asleep. 

Room for Two (Or One)

The ability to split the AIR Pro into two separate pads is a big deal. For one, it allows for a more versatile sleeping system that can accommodate storing gear beside you in your rig when you’re on solo missions. The joining zipper is a chunky slider that runs smoothly, and when divided, the extra pad is compact and easy to tuck away.

The other upside to having a two-in-one system is that both pads are inflated separately. This means that movement is far less translated between campers when the pad is joined up.

It’s also an extra safeguard if somehow you manage to put a hole in one side of the pad. This versatility is unique among car-camping pads, and for folks whose needs (and adventures) change constantly, it’s a huge plus.

Speaking of sleeping support, the updated baffle system (which LUNO calls CloudSupport Plus) makes the grade here. Its supportive feel makes you forget you’re sleeping on an air bed, and there’s little motion translated through it.

A Rugged Build

My AIR Pro received extensive testing in the high desert and mountain alpine environments surrounding southwest Colorado. Despite sand, rock, and even the occasional cactus needle, it showed true resilience with a strong lack of leakage. The 300D fabric used is more durable compared to similar pads that typically top out at 75 denier on the bottom.

That tough fabric is further reinforced with a TPU coating on the underside of the pad, making it even more resilient to punctures. While I (unfortunately) don’t have a lovely pupper to run his paws all over the fabric, I did leave my AIR Pro inflated with hundreds of pounds of gear on top while adventuring during the day. I was pleased to experience the same level of inflation that I left it at originally.

The valves aren’t complicated and are dual-purpose, being used for both inflation and deflation. The headrest support slings also inspire confidence that they won’t drop you during the night. This pad is built tough.

Room for Improvement

There isn’t much LUNO hasn’t thought of with the AIR Pro, but a couple of tweaks for future iterations could raise the bar even more. 

First would be the connection of the pump to the fill valve, as it will sometimes fall out if unattended. When this happens, it really shows how loud the pump can be, as it is not the friendliest sound for nearby neighbors who might already be snoozing. This can be mitigated by making sure your vehicle’s doors are closed or prefilling before you get to camp. 

The LUNO AIR Pro is also vehicle-specific, and while it fits many vehicles, it might not work for some. To be sure, utilize the drop-down compatibility menus on the product page to see if your vehicle is a match. The pad fits my 2021 Honda CR-V like a glove, and it’ll play nicely with many modern trailhead vehicles, such as Subaru Outbacks, Toyota Rav4s, and Jeep Cherokees.

If the AIR Pro won’t fit your vehicle, you can consider the simple rectangular AIR+FOAM PRO, which comes in three different sizes, but also includes the head support bridge system for use in vehicles. The added R-value insulation would also make this a great winter option.

LUNO AIR Pro Vehicle Mattress: Conclusion

The LUNO AIR Pro is a premium vehicle mattress option for those who like sleeping and dreaming in comfort while on a road trip, but don’t want the added expense of staying in a hotel every night. With the ability for a rapid setup and quick deflation, you can spend more time relaxing or adventuring. 

Designed for two, the AIR Pro easily unzips into two separate mattresses, so you can ride solo with a more minimalist setup. The durability is top-notch, and the design leaves little to be desired. There are a few other vehicle-specific mattress options out there at the moment, with the EXPED MegaMat Auto being notable for its supreme comfort.

GearJunkie has also reviewed the Auto and found that it’s an excellent option — if it fits your rig. The lack of support in the foot wells does mean you’ll have to get creative, and since it doesn’t split in two like the LUNO does, it either works or it doesn’t. For those reasons, the AIR Pro looks like the top dog when it comes to inflatable backcountry bivy mattresses.

For those who enjoy road trips and overlanding, the AIR Pro will bring a little extra excitement, knowing you’ll get a quality sleep experience.

I wasn’t convinced when the Igloo Recool first showed up. At a glance, the recycled tree pulp walls looked flimsier than my daughter’s cardboard fort upstairs. But then, I gave it a shot — and quickly changed my tune.

I’ve driven it up Richmond Ridge above Aspen in our Jeep Wrangler, hauled it around for day hikes, and stashed it under the car on a 3-hour mountain bike ride in 80-degree heat. It swallowed 11 cans with ease (plus a few protein drinks), held ice long enough to keep drinks cool in serious desert heat, and survived my unique variety of testing in the form of a dumbbell. The sorcery is simple: no more styrofoam coolers for your next day trip.

What’s charming (and frankly rare) in the cooler world is this: Recool isn’t just a novelty. Yes, Igloo advertises this cooler as a better-for-the-environment solution. But you know what? It works, to a certain extent anyway.

You won’t rely on it for a weeklong expedition, but it earns a place in your gear lineup by being light, eco-friendly, and surprisingly capable when you need something in a pinch.

In short: The Igloo Recool 16-quart Cooler ($10) performs far better than you’d expect for a fully recyclable, reusable cooler. It keeps drinks cool for day-long adventures and boasts enough capacity that you won’t show up empty-handed to your next party. Sure, it has some flaws. But I’ll support any $10 paper cooler that can withstand a dumbbell.

See how the Igloo Recool Cooler stacks up against the competition in our buyer’s guide for the Best Coolers of 2025.

Igloo Recool Cooler Review

The Igloo Recool launched in 2019 as the first mass-market, biodegradable cooler designed to replace the cheap white styrofoam boxes you find stacked in gas stations and grocery stores. Those foam coolers have long been the worst of both worlds: squeaky, crunchy, and prone to crumbling apart mid-trip. And, they linger in landfills for centuries.

Igloo’s answer was a molded paper-pulp design, made from recycled paper and a plant-based binder. Just like the gross styrofoam, the Recool holds ice and keeps drinks cold. But, it composts back into the earth when its job is done. In other words, it solves the very specific problem of “disposable” coolers … that never really go away.

Ice Retention and Cooling

I’ll be honest: I didn’t expect the Recool to actually work, but it impressed me with how reliably it kept drinks cool — within its limits.

On a recent desert mountain biking weekend in Fruita, Colo., my husband and I stashed a few protein drinks and bubbly waters inside the cooler before heading out to ride a few laps at 18 Road. It was the kind of hot you can only find in the desert in late September: 86 degrees, zero clouds, and merely a hint of a breeze. We put the cooler beneath our car so it would stay shaded and hoped for a deliciously cold beverage.

When we rolled back 2.5 hours later, I found cool protein drinks waiting for us. No one wants tepid chocolate protein, so this was a bona fide win. The following week, we used the Recool again for a full day of jeeping in our Wrangler high up in the alpine above Aspen.

I packed a few drinks, cheese and salami, and some fruit for my family for the day. Once again, the Recool delivered, and we all noshed on a tasty picnic high above treeline. Does it work as well as a YETI or other pricier option? No, but that’s not an apples-to-apples comparison.

The cooler’s ability to hold a chill comes from its dense paper-pulp walls, which trap air and slow the transfer of heat. Unlike styrofoam, it doesn’t crumble when damp; instead, the material firms up and holds together, even as it absorbs a bit of moisture.

Pair that with a lid that keeps cold air from escaping, and the Recool does a solid job of keeping ice intact for at least 4-5 hours. If you stash it in the shade like we did, you’ll stretch that performance even further.

Igloo claims the ice should last for about 12 hours, but I think that’s a bit short. In my testing, I was able to easily keep ice in there for 5 hours. At 7 hours, there was still plenty of ice, but also some water. I’m not sure about other samples, but the lid on mine doesn’t fit tightly. My guess is that the gaps around the lid are partially responsible for letting warm air in and increasing the melting rate.

Durability That Withstands Dumbbells

Once in a while, you get an idea that just won’t quit. That’s what happened with me in our garage gym. Sure, I could load up the Igloo Recool to review with a dozen cans of bubbly water. But where is the fun in that?

So, I beelined it for our dumbbell rack and started experimenting. At first, I put a smaller 10-pound dumbbell in the cooler to get a gauge on what happened to the integrity of the cooler while I carried it around our neighborhood. Nothing.

So, I tried a 12.5-pound dumbbell and did the same thing. Still nothing. Fifteen pounds. Twenty pounds. At this point, I was tired of walking in the world’s most awkward farmer’s carry. So, I jumped the weight up in 10-pound increments.

Finally, after walking over to our neighbor’s house and back with a 50-pound dumbbell loaded inside, I called an end to the test. After carrying 177 pounds of combined dumbbell weight, the Igloo Recool looked the exact same.

I don’t see any dents in the paper walls or cracks in the corners. The paper isn’t torn anywhere, and the bottom hasn’t fallen out like I honestly expected. Save for a few black smudges on the interior from the rubber jostling around, the cooler looks as good as new.

That said, the Recool is still made of paper. This isn’t a rotomolded plastic or burly aluminum cooler; it’s paper. While it passed the dumbbell test with flying colors, I don’t expect this cooler to be around in a year. With a few months of hard use, I’m sure I’ll notice dings, dents, and destruction. But since most folks are buying these as single or occasional-use options, I think there’s a lot of value.

Capacity and Real-World Fit

On the label that accompanies the Recool, Igloo says that you can fit up to 20 cans at max capacity. In my experience, that feels like a stretch. Yes, you can absolutely fit 20 cans in the Recool. But that doesn’t take into account anything else you may need — like ice.

During testing, I found the sweet spot for functionality to be around a dozen cans. I’d layer ice on the bottom first and then start piling the cans in. If I did this, there was plenty of room for cans, ice, and a little extra space for the occasional snack or treat.

The interior is basic; you won’t find any shelves, compartments, or dividers like you see in other, pricier coolers. It’s a big empty box. But again, it’s a $10 paper cooler designed for occasional use. When you keep that in mind, it makes a lot of sense.

Sustainability and Environmental Edge

One of the Recool’s most compelling features is that it’s part of a broader shift away from single-use foam. With bans on styrofoam already in states like Colorado, Maine, Maryland, New York, Virginia, Washington, and Vermont, alternatives aren’t just nice to have. They’re necessary. The Recool was ahead of that curve.

Styrofoam is notoriously bad for the environment, taking more than 500 years to break down in landfills. Even then, it doesn’t fully decompose; it just crumbles into microplastics, which continues to be a problem. By contrast, the Recool is made from recycled paper pulp and a plant-based binder. This means it’s both compostable and biodegradable after use.

Instead of adding to the problem, it quietly disappears back into the waste stream. No, it’s not an immediate cure-all to an ever-growing problem, but it does help a lot.

Room for Improvement

The Recool lives in an in-between space: it’s designed to be reusable, but not forever. Some people will treat it like a single-use cooler, recycling or composting it after a weekend. Others will squeeze a few months of day trips and tailgates out of it.

What it’s not meant for is years of service like a hard-sided plastic cooler. The pulp material will eventually soften and show wear, especially if it’s stored damp or left out in the elements. And while the ice retention is better than I expected, it still doesn’t come close to hard-sided options like a Yeti. For $10, those compromises make sense, but it’s worth knowing where the line is between “pleasantly durable” and “temporary by design.”

Final Thoughts: Igloo Recool Review

The Recool surprised me with how well it kept drinks cold, even on hot days. And, I loved knowing it wasn’t leaving behind a chunk of styrofoam waste. It’s not built for multiday trips or long-term use. But, as a $10 eco-friendly cooler for day adventures, it does exactly what it promises.

If you need something cheap, simple, and sustainable to keep a round of soda water cold, this is the one. And honestly, I’ll back any paper cooler that can survive a dumbbell test.

There is no task I hate more while backpacking than deflating my sleeping pad and getting it back into its stuff sack in the morning. Trying to roll one up with the military precision required for its tiny bag while under-caffeinated and tired is no easy feat.

So you can imagine my joy when, in the midst of a multiday backpacking trip, I did not have an issue getting the Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Down Sleep Pad back in its sack. A simple design change from the typical sleeping pad saves users time and effort while delivering top-tier insulation. 

I tested the Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 for several days backpacking and during multiple camping trips this fall. I had no complaints about packing and unpacking this pad, catching Zs, and staying warm with it.

In short: The Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Down Sleep Pad is a user-friendly three-season sleeping pad for backpackers and campers. It has an R value of 7.5, uses goose down insulation, and weighs 1 pound, 5.5 ounces. While it isn’t the lightest three-season pad on the market, this sleeping pad delivers protection from the cold ground and offers comfort in a reliable package with smart design features. 

Compare the Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Down Sleep Pad to those on GearJunkie’s guide to the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads.

Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Sleep Pad Review

I tested this sleeping pad for 3 days on the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) in Minnesota, and while camping in France and southern Illinois. Temps at night got down into the low 40s, and I slept on rocky, uneven surfaces. 

I am 5’6” and found that the regular size (72×20″) was plenty long enough for me. As a stomach sleeper, I typically prefer pads with a bit more width. I appreciated that the regular wide size only costs $10 more, a pretty insignificant upcharge for 5 more inches of width. In comparison, Big Agnes charges an additional $50 to go from the regular to the regular-wide size of its Rapide SL sleeping pad.

Design & Materials

This pad relies on 800-fill goose down to achieve its three-season R-value of 7.3. On the Rab website, the brand claims that the pad “works to trap heat by minimizing convection currents within the mat.” As a bonus, the Hypersphere also uses lightweight recycled polyester fabric in its construction. 

This sleeping pad has a long rectangular shape with vertical air chambers. Larger chambers on the outside of the pad are meant to cradle you while you rest. They work like bumpers, helping keep you centered, so you won’t roll off in the night.

The mat inflates with a low-profile two-way valve situated on the back of the pad, near the top. It can be manually inflated with lung power or using the included pump sack.

In the Field: Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Sleep Pad

Inflation

As I do with most pads, I inflated this one the old-fashioned way, with my lungs. Blowing it up took around 2 minutes.

Because the pad uses goose down for insulation, Rab suggests allowing the feathers to distribute evenly after inflation. Users are encouraged to shake the pad up and down after it’s full, and then let it rest for around 30 minutes.

If the down is clumped up, or can’t attain full loft, its ability to trap warm air weakens. Redistributing the down and allowing it time to re-loft helps even out and improve the pad’s insulation.

When I get to camp, I usually set up my sleep system first and then make dinner, so the brief wait time was no problem for me. However, if you tend to crash the moment you get to camp or if you set up your sleep system right before bedtime, you may want to consider a different pad. This one requires some patience.

Warmth

Insulation is measured by “R-values” in sleeping pads. The higher the R-value, the better the pad’s insulation. Higher R-value sleeping pads won’t keep you warmer, per se, but they will better protect you from the cold ground and retain warm air better than lower R-value pads.

A 7.5 R-value is pretty high. Anything above 5 is generally good for three-season camping. When you get into the 7s and above, the pad can even be used in winter.

The Hypersphere Ultra kept me warm throughout my testing. Even when I was camping in France and it rained so hard that my tent flooded, I was pleasantly surprised that the Hypersphere still kept me warm. The bottom got wet, but the top was dry to sleep on, and I didn’t feel like I was losing heat through it.

Comfort

While on the SHT, many of the campsites were rocky, uneven, or full of tree roots. It was almost impossible to find a totally flat, even campsite.

Still, I slept quite comfortably on the Hypersphere and didn’t feel any bumps or lumps while on it. However, the fabric is quite slick. I didn’t love the feeling when my sticky, sweaty skin touched the pad. 

Usually, pads have either a quilted design or straight up-and-down rails on the sleeping surface. I tend to prefer pads that are quilted, as I’ve found that those rails can press on my spine and be uncomfortable. However, I had no such issue with the Rab pad because the rails were sloped enough that they didn’t become rigid when inflated.

Some lightweight backpacking pads can be noisy (especially those made with Mylar components). However, I had no complaints about this sleeping pad. When I moved or rolled around at night, it was pretty quiet.

Packability

As previously stated, I had a significantly easier time packing this bag up than with other pads. Instead of placing it in a rigid stuff sack, which is what most brands offer, Rab has a rollaway bag with elastic bands on the outside.

In the morning, I would deflate the pad, lay on it to get the air out, fold it like a letter, roll it up, shove it in the bag, and then pull the cover and elastic bands over to secure it. Done.

This system is a lot more forgiving than typical stuff sacks. I never rolled it as neatly as it came in the packaging. However, I had no problem fitting it in the bag, which was stretchier than bags I’ve used from brands like Big Agnes or Sea to Summit. 

The pad’s two-way valve made it easy to deflate. Unlike some two-way valves, this one lies flat, so it has a low profile. It doesn’t jut out and add extra width to the pad when you roll it up. 

Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 vs. Other Pads 

A sleeping pad costing $250 or more might seem pricey. However, for pads with R-values this high, prices in the $200-300 range are par for the course. In general, a pad with an R-value of 5 or above is considered suitable for three-season camping and colder weather.

The Sea to Summit Ether Lite XR Pro has an R-value of 7.4 and retails for $229. The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT costs $240 with an R-value of 7.3.

When it comes to insulation for the price, the only standout competitor that beats this Rab pad is Nemo’s Tensor Extreme Conditions pad. This ultra-warm pad has an R-value of 8.5 but has the same $250 price tag as the Hypersphere. 

The Hypersphere Ultra is heavier than other sleeping pads with an R-value of 7 or above. It weighs 1 pound, 5.5 ounces, which is heavier than the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT (15.5 ounces) and the Sea to Summit Ether Lite XR Pro (1 pound, 3.8 ounces). However, it is lighter than the Big Agnes Campmeister Deluxe (2 pounds) and the Exped Dura 8R (1 pound, 8 ounces).

Given the amount of insulation such a high R-value requires, it’s normal for these kinds of pads to weigh at least a pound. Compare the Rab Hypersphere 7.5 to other sleeping pads in GearJunkie’s guide to the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads.

Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 Down Sleep Pad: Conclusions

If you’re looking for a warm pad that will protect you in cold temps, the Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 is a solid choice. It isn’t the warmest or the lightest, but in terms of price, weight, and R-value, it’s pretty comparable to and even competitive with some of the Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads on the market.

What makes you choose this pad versus others from competitors like Sea to Summit and Therm-A-Rest? That might come down to personal preferences. If you already know you want to purchase a pad in a larger size than the standard one, this Rab pad is a great value.

If you prefer down to synthetic insulation and noisy Mylar, this pad is a great three-season option. It’s quiet, easily packable, warm, and comfortable.

Ultimately, I had no problem falling and staying asleep with the Rab Hypersphere Ultra 7.5 R Sleep Pad. And crucially, I also had no problem packing this pad up when it was time to break camp. If I were preparing for a thru-hike where I’d have to pack up every morning for months, this one would be high on my list.

Camping and food go hand in hand, especially when car camping affords you the luxury of a two-burner stove. And when good grub is on the line, not just any stove will do. That’s why we’ve been testing the best camping stoves for multiple seasons in a row, and have fired up nearly 25 different options in our quest.

A good camp stove should fire up quickly, provide steady heat to get things rolling, and be able to dial it back for precision work. My top pick, the Camp Chef Everest 2X, has plenty of firepower to keep dishes rolling off the line, but you don’t need to spend the big bucks, either, with the budget Coleman Cascade Classic only running $100.

With years of combined experience with camp cooking, we used our collective knowledge to narrow down the best options today. For each stove in this review, we considered design, ease of use, BTUs, windy weather performance, simmer control, weight, cost, and boil time. On the surface, these stoves all have a lot in common, but each has unique features that stand out for specific uses.

If you’re still unsure which kind of camping stove is right for you, check out our Explainer Series article: How to Choose a Camp Stove.

Editor’s Note: We updated our Camping Stoves buyer’s guide on August 29, 2025 to add the Camp Chef Pro 14 as our new favorite option for cooking for large groups and families. We also added new Rating Attributes to each stove we’ve tested, allowing you to compare and contrast them before making your purchase.

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Other Camp Stoves to Get Cooking On

We’ve been testing and cooking on camp stoves for nigh decades now, and while the seven award winners above are my top picks for almost any situation outdoors, there are plenty of others on the market that’ll get it done. Consider the eight options below as excellent alternatives that we’ve vetted and would stand behind any day.

Camping Stove Comparison Chart

Camping Stove	Price	Burners	BTU Output	Boil Time	Fuel Type	Weight
Camp Chef Everest 2X	$230	Two	20,000-BTU per burner	3:06 min. per L	Propane	12 lbs.
Coleman Cascade Classic Camp Stove	$130	Two	10,000-BTU per burner	7:00 min. per L	Propane	11 lb., 14.4 oz.
Primus Kinjia	$230	Two	10,200-BTU per burner	6:40 min. per L	Propane	8 lbs., 3.2 oz.
Camp Chef Mountaineer	$470	Two	20,000-BTU per burner	3:25 min. per L	Propane	16 lbs.
iKamper Disco Series Camping Grill	$515	One	8,455 BTU	7:00 min. per L	Iso-butane	27 lbs.
Snow Peak Home & Camp Burner	$120	One	8,333-BTU	4:00 min. per L	Butane	3 lbs.
Camp Chef Pro 14	$380	Two	30,000-BTU per burner	2:50 min. per L	Propane	48 lbs., 8 oz.
Primus Alika	$330	Two	10,000 and 13,300 BTUs	4:30 min. per L	Propane	10 lbs., 6 oz.
Coleman Cascade 328	$260	Three	28,000-BTU total	7:00 min. per L	Propane	18 lbs.
GSI Outdoors Selkirk 540+	$150	Two	14,000-BTU per burner	4:25 min. per L	Propane	10 lbs.
Coleman 3-in-1 Stove	$275	Two	12,000-BTU per burner	4:30 min. per L	Propane	13 lbs., 8 oz.
Camp Chef VersaTop	$190	One	18,000-BTU	N/A	Propane	24 lbs.
Jetboil Genesis Basecamp Stove System	$450	Two	10,000-BTU per burner	5:45 min. per L	Propane	6 lbs., 3 oz.

How We Tested the Best Camping Stoves

You wouldn’t head out into the backcountry with an untested backpacking stove, and while the stakes might not be as high while camping, it’ll certainly put a damper on the evening should things fizzle out. Luckily, we’ve done the heavy lifting for you, and thanks to our crew of outdoors enthusiasts, we’ve field-tested the entire spectrum of camp stoves, from compact single burners to brew up your coffee to full-blown mobile kitchens that’ll feed 10 people with ease.

Our Expert Testers

Guide author Mary Murphy is a multisport athlete, and it wouldn’t be off-base to claim that camp cooking is also one of those sports. From her outpost in Denver, she assembled our initial slate of 12 camp stoves in 2021 and dreamed up our boiling and simmering testing regimen to ensure each stove was tested on an even playing field.

I, Senior Editor Nick Belcaster, have experienced the entire backcountry culinary spectrum, from cold-soaking ramen noodles on months-long thru-hikes to whipping up full-course meals for groups of friends while car camping, and my time on the hot side has earned him the title of honorary grill master among camping compadres. Based in Washington state, I continue to test the latest and greatest in camp stoves on forays into the mountains and out to the coast — typically in something a bit more casual than chef’s whites.

Our Testing Process

Besides just boiling water, we cooked meals on each of the camp stoves for this review (including mac and cheese, sautéed veggies, meats, rice, and more). I also conducted boil and simmer tests — both with and without a manufactured wind blowing — which are a consistent way of comparing stove performance. I believe this provides a good understanding of each stove’s technical cooking capabilities. And finally, as the green canisters started to pile up, I tallied our fuel consumption to figure out the relative efficiency of each stove.

When I test a camp stove, I’m also looking at the big picture, and pay special attention to functional differences in ease of use, packability, weight, and availability of fueling. All told, our team has put close to 25 different stove systems through our ringer, and have come up with a pretty good understanding of what makes a great camp stove the center of your outdoor kitchen.

Boil and Simmer Tests

I subjected each propane stove to a substantial boil test. I boiled 1 L of water with the same GSI pot and lid on each stove. Before each test, I made sure the pot and water were at the same temperatures as in prior tests. I also checked the water occasionally to note when it began to boil.

Different air temperatures and altitudes will boil water differently, so I tested all of these stoves at the same altitude. Don’t buy one of these stoves and expect it to boil water at these specific times; instead, use this as a rough guide as to which stove heats the most effectively and gets the hottest. Some stoves might have faster boiling times, and others might have better simmer capabilities.

Simmer Test

To test how well a stove could simmer, I tested the knobs and saw how low the flame could go while still remaining active. I also placed a hand above the flame and lowered it to see how close we could get before it got uncomfortable.

The closer the hand could comfortably get (measured in inches), the lower I found a burner could go. Why does this matter? You don’t just want a stove to have hot and very hot settings; sometimes, you need less flame to cook on a low simmer.

I also tested each of the dials to see the range of control they allowed. The higher the degrees of rotation, the more you can turn the dial and change the heat output.

Generally, the higher, the better, as this lets you clearly know if you’re cooking on low, medium, or high. The highest were the Jetboil Genesis and Primus Alika, with 1440 and 1300, respectively, while a few only went 180, including the Camp Chef Pro 14.

Camping Stove	Time to Boil 1 Liter	Simmer Test
Camp Chef Pro 14	2:50 minutes per L	3 inches, 180 degrees
Camp Chef Everest 2X	3:06 minutes per L	1 inch, 360+ degrees
Camp Chef Mountaineer	3:25 minutes per L	1 inch, 360+ degrees
Snow Peak Home & Camp Burner	4:00 minutes per L	2 inches, 3 settings
GSI Outdoors Selkirk 540+	4:25 minutes per L	4 inches, 720 degrees
Primus Alika	4:30 minutes per L	1 inch, 360 degrees
Coleman 3-in-1	4:30 minutes per L	2 inches, 360 degrees
Jetboil Genesis Basecamp Stove	5:45 minutes per L	2 inches, 1,440 degrees
Primus Kinjia	6:40 minutes per L	2 inches, 360 degrees
Coleman Cascade 328	7:00 minutes per L	1 inch, 830 degrees
iKamper Disco Series Camping Grill	7:00 minutes per L	1 inch, 270 degrees
Coleman Cascade Classic	7:00 minutes per L	2-3 inches, 270 degrees

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Camping Stove

This list is for car camping stoves. If you want to eat hot food while hiking or backpacking, check out our review of the best backpacking stoves. Or, if a good char is your thing, take a look at our gear guide of the best portable grills. Otherwise, read on as I break down the nitty-gritty details of camping stoves.

While the camp stove might be the centerpiece of your camp kitchen, its not alone, and building out your perfect camp kitchen will require assembling the proper cook and tableware, utensils, furniture, and organizers. Check out our article on Dialing in Your Camp Kitchen for more details.

Types of Camping Stoves: Standalone Remote Fuel or Freestanding

Camping stoves can be broken down into two main groups, and deciding what kind of camp cooking you’re aiming to do will help you narrow down which stove is better for you. The vast majority of camp stoves are stand-alone, remote fuel stoves, which differentiate themselves from backpacking stoves by not relying on the canister to support the stove. Weighing right around 10 pounds and packing down efficiently to be stowed away, these stoves are best placed on a camp or picnic table, with their outboard fuel canisters supported.

Freestanding stoves, on the other hand, are large group cookers and totally self-supporting. They have adjustable legs that make them easier to stand at while using, but also bulkier and harder to move around. These models typically have higher outputs to handle boiling large pots for things like crab boils or stews, and the 30,000 BTU Camp Chef Pro 14 is an excellent example. Freestanding stoves typically are fueled by the larger 20-pound propane canisters or can be used with smaller refillable canisters like the Ignik 5-pound Gas Growler.

Number of Burners

If you spend more than 2-3 months out of the year camping — even if you are a single household — I’d recommend going for a two-burner camping stove. Two burners mean you always have the option of cooking with a pot and pan or, for instance, making one entrée alongside a vegetarian or kid-friendly option, and you avoid the musical chairs of attempting to have everything hot at the same time.

Not to mention, two-burner stoves are the standard. However, for those wanting something different, there are now many single-burner (and even a few three-burner, like the Coleman Cascade 328) options on the market. For larger groups, consider a three-burner such as the Camp Chef Pro 16, which sports 30,000 BTUs across the cooking surface.

Another easy way to augment the number of burners available is to add a single-burner type stove, like the Snow Peak Home & Camp Burner, into the mix. I’ve often utilized combos like this to churn out pasta and sauce, while my sous chef whips up a hot side.

Chainable stove systems like the Jetboil Genesis Basecamp are another excellent way to add additional cooking surfaces and reduce the number of propane bottles you need to carry. Compared to bigger three-burner units, the beauty of a chainable system is that you can leave components behind if you’re going solo or don’t need to cook that much.

BTUs Explained

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. Basically, it’s a measurement of energy and, in the case of camp stoves, heat. A gas range stove you’d find in a home has about 6,000-8,000 BTUs per burner (on average), and for the curious, a single BTU is the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

Lower BTUs generally mean lower-heat cooking (good for simmering and light cooking uses). Higher BTUs (anything above 10,000) indicate high-heat cooking (great for meals with longer cook times and essential for boiling lots of water quickly). The flame pattern that a burner head puts out will also affect heat transfer, but BTUs are a relatively clean way to compare stoves.

Most camp stoves today produce around 10,000 BTU, which is a perfectly functional amount of heat for almost all cooking purposes. This balances fuel efficiency well and will still boil a pot of water in a reasonable amount of time. Stoves like the Coleman Cascade Classic, Primus Kinjia, and Eureka Ingite all produce around this amount and worked admirably in our testing.

Bumping up the BTUs can certainly speed up the cooking process, especially when it comes to bringing water to a boil. The GSI Selkirk 540+ and Coleman 3-in-1 both pump out around 12-14,000 BTU, and were able to bring a liter of water to a boil in less than 4 minutes and 30 seconds.

This increase in performance does come with a cost, however, and in high-performance 20,000 BTU stoves like the Camp Chef Everest 2X, fuel consumption will take a hit. Consider bringing along multiple gas canisters when cooking with these higher-power options.

Time to Boil

Usually, when you go camping, you’re there to enjoy the outdoors. And yes, that also means enjoying hanging around camp and eating good camp food. One of the most essential criteria for a camp stove is its ability to boil water.

Some stoves can boil in 3 minutes, while others take as long as 10 minutes. The stove that boils the fastest marks a great stove, but doesn’t necessarily make it the best. If you are looking for certain features, say a lightweight stove or one with an igniter, you may have to sacrifice some boil time.

In my testing, it was no surprise that the 30,000 BTU powerhouse Camp Chef Pro 14 was hot to trot right out of the gate and boiled a liter of water in less than 3 minutes. Following that were the higher-end BTU stoves, including the Camp Chef Everest 2X, the Camp Chef Mountaineer, and the Coleman 3-in-1.

Interestingly, the glut of stoves with around 10,000-12,000 BTU shook out with a wide variance of times, and can likely be attributed to their burner size and shape. Bringing up the rear was the budget Coleman Cascade Classic, which took a full 7 minutes to boil.

All the stoves I reviewed were able to efficiently light/start, heat, and reach a rolling boil in 8 minutes or less.

Simmer Control and Flame Pattern

I did a whole test on simmer control because, as I’ve mentioned, boiling water isn’t everything. In order to enjoy a good chef-quality camp meal, you want to be able to boil, but also bake, sauté, fry, simmer, grill, and more. I measured the simmering range on the flame of each burner/stove to see how they stacked up.

The pattern of the flame that the burner head puts out also has a good bit to do with how well a stove will simmer. Small burners like those present on the Primus Kinjia concentrate the heat in one area, and you’ll need to continue stirring to keep food from burning, or use cookware that dissipates heat, such as cast iron. This was one of the reasons I loved the Camp Chef Everest 2X so much, which has broad burner heads that distribute heat evenly and make for fuss-free simmering.

Performance in Wind

Think about how often and under what conditions (such as in cold weather) you’ll be using your stove. The more you expand your horizons to travel, the more likely you are to encounter harsh weather and wind. Knowing whether or not your stove can hold up in windy weather isn’t something you want to learn on a 10-day camping trip on the blustery New England coast.

Camp stoves aim to protect themselves from the wind in three ways. The first is windscreens, which are typically attached to the lid of the stove and are deployed by folding them out. This creates a three-sided barrier from gusts that might otherwise attempt to snuff out your flame. Windscreens aren’t often very adjustable, so you’ll want to aim your stove with the lid pointing into the wind.

The second method of blocking wind is recessing the burners into the stove pan. This is fairly prominent on stoves like the Primus Kinjia or Coleman Cascade Classic but noticeably absent on the GSI Selkirk 540+, which likely contributed to that stove’s lesser ability to avoid being blown out. The final barrier against wind is only seen on the Camp Chef Everest 2X, and those are small metal dishes that surround each burner. These made the Everest extremely resistant to being blown out.

If you live somewhere windy, you can also ensure better stove performance in wind and cold by investing in more BTUs.

Fuel Types, Capacities, and Efficiency

The majority of stoves on this list use 1-pound propane canisters. However, a few, like the Snow Peak Home & Camp, use butane fuel, and the Primus Alika and iKamper Disco can use both. While it varies based on how long you take to cook your meals and what setting your burner is on, a 1-pound propane canister generally lasts about three or four meals, or about 1 hour of cooking time. If you’re headed out for a weekend, I recommend packing a few canisters, as multiple meals can start to chew through them.

Propane is generally considered an all-weather cooking fuel, but it will start to get finicky as the temperatures drop. You can help safeguard against this by keeping your canisters in a warm place before cooking and tucking them back away when you’re done. Butane, on the other hand, doesn’t do so well in the cold, and I don’t generally recommend it for shoulder-season cooking.

In testing, I timed each stove for how long it would run on a single 16-ounce propane canister and found that, in general, the higher the BTUs, the thirstier the stove and the quicker it would burn fuel. At full-blast the Camp Chef Everest 2X will always find the bottom of a canister before the 10,000 BTU stoves, and because of this I always recommend only running your stove as hot as you need to cook on.

While traditional 1-pound propane canisters are single-use, you may consider investing in a refillable propane tank like the Gas Growler from Ignik ($150), which will allow you to refill your camp canister from 20-pound propane tanks. This can greatly simplify your camp cooking needs and keep disposable tanks out of the landfill.

Or, if space is at a premium, the Flame King 1-pound refillable bottles offer the same convenience, at the same size as the single-use tanks. Take note that generally all camp stoves use a screw-on adapter that accepts 16-ounce canisters, but adapters can be purchased for running off bigger tanks.

Weight and Packed Size

Weight is one of the biggest differentiators between the stoves on this list. However, these stoves are built for car camping, so you won’t really be carrying them too far. If you know you want a capable and strong two-burner, weight might not matter as much as other features.

What matters more is the packed size. There’s only so much space in your car or truck or at your campsite, so compact stoves like the Jetboil Genesis Basecamp Stove or the Primus Kinjia can make a difference. 

Check to see if the stove packs down into a case, has a cover, and how the fuel line and grill can be stored. Is it all stored together? Do accessories take up more space? These are all factors to consider for your unique preferences and needs.

Ignition: Strikers vs. Matches

Strikers, also sometimes known as auto-igniters or piezo igniters, are buttons that expel a spark using electricity to ignite a stove. (It’s a process similar to the button that ignites the pilot light on your stove at home.)

Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of using some high-quality piezo igniters and felt the sadness of realizing that the built-in striker has bit the dust. Know that different qualities of piezo igniters exist, and that generally, you get what you pay for.

Other strikers that provide a spark can be flint or metal. I always opt for a camp stove that has an integrated igniter — as long as the igniter works consistently, this is the best option.

The last option for lighting your camp stove is the good ol’-fashioned match. However, matches can be wasteful and fragile, and not all are waterproof or can stand up to harsh weather. You can always bring flint or some matches as a backup method.

Extra Features: Griddles, Grates, Pots, and More

Think about who you’re cooking for. Is your group size usually one to two people, three to four, or a larger family? Also, consider what you’re cooking.

Do you make a lot of one-pot meals, or do you like sautéing, simmering, slicing, dicing, and baking when outdoors? Do you want to invest in these features down the road? Or do you want a stove with a compatible grill top, or a stove big enough for say, a dutch oven?

Finally, consider your budget. If you see a stove on sale for less than the others, I recommend jumping on it.

If you need a little more information before making your decision, take a look through our Explainer Series article How to Choose a Camp Stove.

Price & Value

Buy the right one, and a good camping stove can be a bit of a legacy item. But knowing which one is right more often comes down to how often you’ll be using it and what you’re looking to cook on it. From $100 budget burners to $500 specialist units with built-in cast iron, there’s a pretty wide range of options out there.

Budget

If camping is an on-again, off-again endeavor for you (or maybe you just backpack more than you car camp), there are not many reasons to splurge on the nicest stovetop in the campsite. Budget camp stoves will certainly get the job done, and even these options will come with two burners as standard. 10,000 BTUs is common in these frugal units, and you may have to give up the ease of a piezo ignitor. Expect to pay under $100 for these burners.

For a bit more than a C-note, the Coleman Cascade Classic Camp Stove ($130) is a dual-burner that just doesn’t quit in my experience. Yes, the build uses a bit thinner material than other stoves (and it weighs a bit more, somehow), but it’s proven to be a dependable cooker, even despite the budget price.

Mid-Tier

For between $100 and $250, you can get into a camp stove that’ll go the distance and bump up the firepower a bit for dishes that might require shallow frying. Burners of between 15 and 20K BTUs will get you there and are often shielded by better windscreens and set below larger cooking surfaces that can accommodate big frying pans. This is also where some more specialist stoves reside, such as 3-in-1 options with different cooking surfaces.

The Camp Chef Everest 2X ($230) has been our top pick for almost 5 years now, and I’m sticking with it. No other stove has the rugged build quality, 20,000 BTU burners, and reliable piezo ignitor as it does. There are a number of reliable dual-burners that perform just slightly less, however, such as the GSI Outdoors Selkirk 540+ ($150).

Premium

North of $250 are the premium options, which include large camp stoves with integrated legs and dual-burners with novel designs, such as all-aluminum constructions or collapsible configurations. These stoves are certainly investment pieces, but our testing has shown that they’re built to last.

The Camp Chef Pro 14 ($380) is my new stove of choice for feeding large groups, and the two 30,000 BTU burners have more than enough to do it with. The Camp Chef Mountaineer ($470) is everything I love about the Everest 2X — just lightweight aluminum — and if you’ve got the extra dough, I highly recommend it. At the very end of the spectrum, the $500+ iKamper Disco costs a pretty penny but jams in so much cooking ability that its tough to use it all in a weekend.

Frequently Asked Questions